Front Dana 44 Wanted

Mkp08

New member
Just bought a 08 JKU it has a Dana 30 and don't think its going to handle the 37's. Im looking for Just the axle housing or a stuffed one my budget is tight I'm a college student if you know of any one getting rid of one or of any deals Let me know. I'm looking to pay around 350-450 I am willing to also do some trade for 3D CAD work+cash for axle. Thanks
 
Just bought a 08 JKU it has a Dana 30 and don't think its going to handle the 37's. Im looking for Just the axle housing or a stuffed one my budget is tight I'm a college student if you know of any one getting rid of one or of any deals Let me know. I'm looking to pay around 350-450 I am willing to also do some trade for 3D CAD work+cash for axle. Thanks

That's a tough find only the Rubi's come with the D44 fronts and those run 1k(2.4k for front and rear) You may want to check some local junk yards if your on a budget. I would also recommend running the 37s, wheel the D30 until it dies while saving up for a PR44.
 
Are the pr44 that much better than the dana44

:doh: The stock D44 is D30 axle tubes on a larger pumpkin. The walls of the tubes are I believe 1/4 inch where the PR44 tubes are a 1/2". The C's are much stronger. The dif housings are much stronger, the control arm mounts ect ect ect
 
Ok so if I run the dana 30 till she dies should I invest in chromoly shafts, locker, sleeve, gusset and truss or just keep her stock and build up my dana 44 rear and save up for the PR44 front?
 
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Ok so if I run the dana 30 till she dies should I invest in chromoly shafts, locker, sleeve, gusset and truss or just keep her stock and build up my dana 44 rear?

Build the rear. Don't put a penny in the front, it is a huge waste.
 
Ok so if I run the dana 30 till she dies should I invest in chromoly shafts, locker, sleeve, gusset and truss or just keep her stock and build up my dana 44 rear and save up for the PR44 front?

Don't do anything to the Dana 30. Just whee till it breaks and try to save for a built pr44. And there is no point in building out the rear until something in it breaks then replace the part with the upgrade you want. Or you can also save for something like a trail 60 but that is just more money to spend.
 
Build the rear. Don't put a penny in the front, it is a huge waste.

Sweet thanks for the advice I was just about to by a stock dana 44 front but I guess I'll save up for the PR44. Another question for you guys I just put on a EVO MFG enforcer Pro lift kit with king coilovers and I am having some trouble with death wobble I've felt around while someone turns the wheel back and forth but cant find any bolt that is loose the track bar and the drag link by the pitman arm both feel like there is a bit of play but isnt there suposed to be because those bars have ball joints theres no play in the bolt its just when you turn back and forth you feel a small pop?
 
Sweet thanks for the advice I was just about to by a stock dana 44 front but I guess I'll save up for the PR44. Another question for you guys I just put on a EVO MFG enforcer Pro lift kit with king coilovers and I am having some trouble with death wobble I've felt around while someone turns the wheel back and forth but cant find any bolt that is loose the track bar and the drag link by the pitman arm both feel like there is a bit of play but isnt there suposed to be because those bars have ball joints theres no play in the bolt its just when you turn back and forth you feel a small pop?

Take it right back to the guys that did it and say they did something to the front end wrong and need to realign it then if that doesn't work have then re-torque to spec, check the ball joints, the drag link flip could be bored out too far. That's a start it's hard to tell without being there.
 
Take it right back to the guys that did it and say they did something to the front end wrong and need to realign it then if that doesn't work have then re-torque to spec, check the ball joints, the drag link flip could be bored out too far. That's a start it's hard to tell without being there.

I've tried all that I had it all woking and death wobble eliminated then I went on a trail run and since it has been doing the death wobble on bumps around 70-75 if it is out of alignment from the trail run would that cause it?
 
I've tried all that I had it all woking and death wobble eliminated then I went on a trail run and since it has been doing the death wobble on bumps around 70-75 if it is out of alignment from the trail run would that cause it?

Alignment alone isn't the cause of DW. It might be the trigger to get it started, but it's not the root cause as to WHY it is happening.

Are you sure it is DW and not just a tire wobble? I've personally never experienced it, however everyone who I know that has just about needs a clean pair of shorts after their bout with DW.
 
I'm running 37s on a gusset on front d30. Works fine. Putting one tons under it so if it breaks I'm not too worried. I'd personally not put that money in a pr44. Overpriced if you ask me when you can build a junkyard 60 for the sane price if not cheaper but that's just my opinion
 
Alignment alone isn't the cause of DW. It might be the trigger to get it started, but it's not the root cause as to WHY it is happening.

Are you sure it is DW and not just a tire wobble? I've personally never experienced it, however everyone who I know that has just about needs a clean pair of shorts after their bout with DW.

I'm sure the front axle starts bouncing and you do need a new pair of shorts after trust me. I'm just at a loss all the shops in Utah keep saying its alignment or stabilizer shock but both are just fixes to mask what is really wrong.
 
I'm sure the front axle starts bouncing and you do need a new pair of shorts after trust me. I'm just at a loss all the shops in Utah keep saying its alignment or stabilizer shock but both are just fixes to mask what is really wrong.

I would think that something got bumped lose during the trail run. Have you gone back and checked all your steering parts and ensured that everything is torqued properly?
 
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