Full float conversions

Donut707

Donut707

New member
With some of the recent threads on 44/60 or 60/60 axles and big price difference in the two set , has me thinking or alternatives. I know there are free spin kits from spintec , dynatrac and teraflex for the front axles. For the rear axles i have seen a few dana 60 full float parts but mostly the teraflex full float conversions. I have the Dynatrac 44/60 combo on my jeep . Now i know the rear semi float hi pinion 60 may not be the most popular or first choice for some , but at the time and my budget its what i got.

I have been tossing the idea around to convert the semi float rear to a full float using the teraflex kit. I was able to get some tech data to perform some measurements to see if their kit would work with minimal modifications. I have access to a full machine shop and modifying or fabricating custom components can be overcome. Has anyone installed any of the full float conversions ? i did see an older thread talking about the free spin kits , but i did not see anything on the rear.

One of the ideas on converting the semi float rear too the full float was to eliminate the bending axle flanges the biggest detractor of the prorock 60.

The intent of converting the semi float rear and upgrading the front is to save "some" cost . but im not sure the juice is worth the squeeeze? yes you have to buy new 8 lug brakes and wheel. in my case im already running big brakes and would only need rotors . i have been looking at new wheels for a minute so thats already accounted for. so potentially spending $3k-$4K on converting both front and rear to 8 lug and then another $3K on wheels is still less than a new full float axle set.

Again just an idea i had and wanted to see if someone has done something like this before.
Thanks
Matt
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
To be clear, it's not that 'rear semi float hi pinion 60 may not be the most popular or first choice for some', it's that guys like me have gone down that road before, just like you and found it to be a TOTAL waste of time and money. It's a BIG MISTAKE and we're just trying to help others from making the same one.

That said, what you're considering is also a big mistake or at least, from personal experience. Like you, I had a semi-float high pinion PR60 on a 2012 JKUR and had it converted to a full float and for the same reasons. And, while I no longer had issues with bending flanges, I still had a LOT of problem with the ring gear breaking and because, it is driving on the coast side or WEAK side. Again, this is not an opinion, this is what I have personally had to deal with and I only state all this with the best intensions in mind for you.

But, you can take all this for whatever it's worth (y)
 
Donut707

Donut707

New member
wayoflife said:
To be clear, it's not that 'rear semi float hi pinion 60 may not be the most popular or first choice for some', it's that guys like me have gone down that road before, just like you and found it to be a TOTAL waste of time and money. It's a BIG MISTAKE and we're just trying to help others from making the same one.

That said, what you're considering is also a big mistake or at least, from personal experience. Like you, I had a semi-float high pinion PR60 on a 2012 JKUR and had it converted to a full float and for the same reasons. And, while I no longer had issues with bending flanges, I still had a LOT of problem with the ring gear breaking and because, it is driving on the coast side or WEAK side. Again, this is not an opinion, this is what I have personally had to deal with and I only state all this with the best intensions in mind for you.

But, you can take all this for whatever it's worth (y)
Click to expand...
This is exactly what i was looking for. Someone that had converted the semi to full float. How did you do it ? I'm very curious.
Thanks
Matt
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Donut707 said:
This is exactly what i was looking for. Someone that had converted the semi to full float. How did you do it ? I'm very curious.
Thanks
Matt
Click to expand...
This is how a full float axle is made

As you will see in the video, the spindles need to be pressed into the axle tubes and then welded in place. To do a proper conversion, the only thing you would keep on your current axle is the differential. The tubes would need to be removed and new ones installed with the spindles. We had Dynatrac do the conversion for us.
 
Cousin Clyde

Cousin Clyde

Hooked
wayoflife said:
This is how a full float axle is made

As you will see in the video, the spindles need to be pressed into the axle tubes and then welded in place. To do a proper conversion, the only thing you would keep on your current axle is the differential. The tubes would need to be removed and new ones installed with the spindles. We had Dynatrac do the conversion for us.
Click to expand...

One of my favorite videos of all time…glorious axles..
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
I went down this rabbit hole a few years back and tried to justify the conversion by saving some money, but in the end I faced reality: After all is said and done, you're left with converted axles that were never intended to be what you've converted them to.

With the access to a machine shop you have you'd be better off modifying a set of D60 takeoff axles rather than spend the dough on converting a set. There a bunch of companies that make the truss conversion kits
 
RESURECTIONJK

RESURECTIONJK

Hooked
For what it’s worth, I was about to go this direction. I’m running a front Tera44HD and it’s served me well, however my rear D44 has taken an absolute beating, bending 35 spline chromoly shafts and eventually, an axle tube. I thought about buying a full float rear and converting the front to an 8 lug, manual hub.

The cost and hassle AND still having a small ring gear in the front just wasn’t something I wanted to deal with and as such, have started a DIY SD60s Sterling 10.5 swap.

In your case selling what you have to offset the cost of a proper pair of PR60’s or UD60’s is what would be a much better investment assuming you play hard enough and are having issues with your current setup. That rear high pinion WILL be your undoing at some point as Eddie has mentioned and isn’t worth the steel they used to build it, especially if you want get sendy.
 
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