I truely can't make up my mind: PR44 or PR60

[wayoflife]

I totally understand that. Only option on the PR60 was the stubby hub kit. Dynatrac rep said this would be a great package to build off of over time. His thoughts though were that the standard PR60 was stronger than the built PR44. Again, I apologize if I'm looking at this stuff incorrectly as Im definitely a newb to axles components/capabilities.

He made it sound like if I started with the bare PR60 with stub hub kit that the other upgrades down the road were not much more expensive after the fact. He did say the stubby hub kit was the biggest expense down the road--do it now $500, do it later 2500


For the PR44--should I get this option?
* (Upgrade to Dynatrac JK Raised Track Bar Bracket Modification, Installed, w/Ram Assist Tabs Loose (For High Steer/Flipped Drag Link Applications) = add $79.00)

The owner of Dynatrac is a personal friend of mine and it sounds like I need to have a talk with him regarding his sales guys because it sounds to me like you're being upsold. The fact that you will be running this setup with a factory 44 needs to be taken into consideration as well as the kind of wheeling you will be doing. If you'll be wheeling hard enough to need a front PR60, I can guarantee you that you'll need a REAR one first. Trust me, I speak from experience. What size tires are you planning on running anyway? 40's?

 

[mastrcruse]

I'm on 35's now and don't know what's next after these are done. I'd like to graduate to 40's but don't know if 37's will be a stepping stone or if I'll just jump right up. Being honest, I have a go big complex and if there's only a $1900 gap to the 60 I'd do that all day, however, it sounds like to get a proper 60 I'm definitely not at the quoted $7900. A major goal for me is to run JKX and feel comfortable doing it but my wheeling isn't by any means fast, I like to take my time/go slow and enjoy the time not at work haha.

 

[OverlanderJK]

I'm on 35's now and don't know what's next after these are done. I'd like to graduate to 40's but don't know if 37's will be a stepping stone or if I'll just jump right up.

Better get 8 lug in the PR60 then. That'll add to the cost.

 

[wayoflife]

I'm on 35's now and don't know what's next after these are done. I'd like to graduate to 40's but don't know if 37's will be a stepping stone or if I'll just jump right up. Being honest, I have a go big complex and if there's only a $1900 gap to the 60 I'd do that all day, however, it sounds like to get a proper 60 I'm definitely not at the quoted $7900. A major goal for me is to run JKX and feel comfortable doing it but my wheeling isn't by any means fast, I like to take my time/go slow and enjoy the time not at work haha.

Okay, if you're really hopping to get up to 40's, I can understand why you are thinking about getting a PR60 but if the JKX is a driving force for you to get one, don't bother. There are guys who've run it with factory axles including me. For your purposes, I would focus more of your attention into putting a PR60 in the rear and a PR44 up front. I am running this setup now with 37's and can tell you that it'll get the job done and for a lot less. Depending on how you do it, you can get BOTH axles for about the price of a properly built front PR60. Of course, the ONLY reason why I recommend this is because it sounds like you have a budget to work with and I'm just trying to point you in a direction that will give you what you NEED and SAVE you a few dollars in the process.

 

[mastrcruse]

Okay, if you're really hopping to get up to 40's, I can understand why you are thinking about getting a PR60 but if the JKX is a driving force for you to get one, don't bother. There are guys who've run it with factory axles including me. For your purposes, I would focus more of your attention into putting a PR60 in the rear and a PR44 up front. I am running this setup now with 37's and can tell you that it'll get the job done and for a lot less. Depending on how you do it, you can get BOTH axles for about the price of a properly built front PR60. Of course, the ONLY reason why I recommend this is because it sounds like you have a budget to work with and I'm just trying to point you in a direction that will give you what you NEED and SAVE you a few dollars in the process.

Great! Thanks again for your help. I think this is now the plan...PR44 in front and PR 60 in the rear. Would you recommend I go with the Trail 60 in the rear and upgrade to the PR center or go full PR60 rear and run adapters like rubicat?

 

[wayoflife]

Great! Thanks again for your help. I think this is now the plan...PR44 in front and PR 60 in the rear. Would you recommend I go with the Trail 60 in the rear and upgrade to the PR center or go full PR60 rear and run adapters like rubicat?

Depends. Do you already have plans to get new wheels and do you think you'll ever want to run something like an EVO DTD? If not, you might want to just get a modified Trail 60 so that you can still run your 5x5 wheels and keep your factory axle width. You can save a lot of money this way. If so, you might want to go for the wider stance a full width axle will give you and run 5x5.5 wheels with adapters up front. It just depends on your budget and what you need it to do for you.

 

[mastrcruse]

Depends. Do you already have plans to get new wheels and do you think you'll ever want to run something like an EVO DTD? If not, you might want to just get a modified Trail 60 so that you can still run your 5x5 wheels and keep your factory axle width. You can save a lot of money this way. If so, you might want to go for the wider stance a full width axle will give you and run 5x5.5 wheels with adapters up front. It just depends on your budget and what you need it to do for you.

Next step would be to go with the bolt on EVO coilover kit. Thanks.

Rubicat is running the evo bolt on kit with PR44 front and PR60 rear with adapters for 5x5.5 wheels...is that correct?

 

[wayoflife]

Next step would be to go with the bolt on EVO coilover kit. Thanks.

Rubicat is running the evo bolt on kit with PR44 front and PR60 rear with adapters for 5x5.5 wheels...is that correct?

No bolt-ons. Rubicat is now running DTD's. Everything else is correct.

 

[mastrcruse]

Got it. Thanks! So 3 more questions...and then I promise I'll stop.



Is Rubicat running the 35 spline U Joint front axles? If so, Who's the manu of them? I've talked to 3 shops and 1 says they can get em' and 2 say only option is RCVs.

Should I invest in this option if I'm going to run at least 3.5" tall lift (or more)? I don't have ram assist but will eventually get it with 37's. Won't run assist until 35's are worn and currently not running flip kit...need one though probably.
(Dynatrac JK Raised Track Bar Bracket Modification, Installed, w/Ram Assist Tabs Loose (For High Steer/Flipped Drag Link Applications) = add $79.00)

 

[wayoflife]

Is Rubicat running the 35 spline U Joint front axles? If so, Who's the manu of them? I've talked to 3 shops and 1 says they can get em' and 2 say only option is RCVs.

No. I needed my PR44 in a pinch and was only able to get one with the factory internals option. I am still running a factory passenger side shaft and a used chromo shaft with a full circle clip on the driver side.

Should I invest in this option if I'm going to run at least 3.5" tall lift (or more)? I don't have ram assist but will eventually get it with 37's. Won't run assist until 35's are worn and currently not running flip kit...need one though probably.

It's up to you but I haven't felt the need for it.

 

[Northridge4x4]

Honestly we refuse to build a Pro rock with 35 spline shafts we feel its not worth it at all.

David

 

[mastrcruse]

Honestly we refuse to build a Pro rock with 35 spline shafts we feel its not worth it at all.

David

Why do you think it's not worth it?
Other than the RCVs there aren't any other options? The fuse is then what with RCVs? The driveline u joint or ring and pinion? Sounds like to run 35 u joint I need a different ARB locker.

 

[Sithwindu]

Why do you think it's not worth it? Other than the RCVs? The fuss is then what with RCVs? The driveline u joint or ring and pinion? Sounds like to run 35 u joint I need a different ARB locker.

If I remember correctly it's 35 spline outers but the inners taper in? Or taper out, I forgot which, makes the break more likely inside the housing, don't quote me On that tho lol

 

[Northridge4x4]

inner axle seal sucks for 35 spline shafts , the axle's neck up at the seal surface which is the only difference from 30 - 35 spline.

David

 

[mastrcruse]

If running 35's for a while will I lose any articulation with a PR44? How about a PR60?

 

[wayoflife]

If running 35's for a while will I lose any articulation with a PR44? How about a PR60?

LOL!! Seriously?? Are you really STILL thinking about a front PR60 here??

Why would you lose articulation? You will lose turning radius with the PR60.

 

[cozdude]

If running 35's for a while will I lose any articulation with a PR44? How about a PR60?

It all comes down to your suspension set up and not your tire size so for them I would say No (44) and maybe(60). For the latter you may lose some up travel do to the housing being bigger. It would contact the motor. Only away around that would be longer bump stops. Only way to know that would be to cycle the suspension when you install.

 

[CastleRockJeep]

I say get what you can afford. If you can swing a 60 now I see no reason not to.

 

[wayoflife]

I say get what you can afford. If you can swing a 60 now I see no reason not to.

But really, that's just the issue here, right? He can't really afford one or else he would have already just done it. He's trying to get everyone to convince him that he should get one EVEN THOUGH he can't afford to do anything about his factory rear Dana 44 and I guarantee you that is a mistake. IF ANYTHING, it'd be smarter to put a PR60 in the rear and a PR44 up front as the rear will see the brunt of the labor. IF ANYTHING, this guy could afford to get a PR44 AND A build up Trail 60 for about the cost of a built up front PR60. The fact that we're STILL dicking around with the idea of just getting a front PR60 is somewhat laughable but really, as I have said to him in the past, it's his Jeep, his money and he should just get whatever he wants. I'm done here :yup:

EDIT: I'd like to point out that Off Road Evolution ran their EVOlander on last 2 JKX's with factory Dana 44's. IF the JKX is really the motivating factor in what axles one should get, that should answer a lot right there.

 

[mastrcruse]

But really, that's just the issue here, right? He can't really afford one or else he would have already just done it. He's trying to get everyone to convince him that he should get one EVEN THOUGH he can't afford to do anything about his factory rear Dana 44 and I guarantee you that is a mistake. IF ANYTHING, it'd be smarter to put a PR60 in the rear and a PR44 up front as the rear will see the brunt of the labor. IF ANYTHING, this guy could afford to get a PR44 AND A build up Trail 60 for about the cost of a built up front PR60. The fact that we're STILL dicking around with the idea of just getting a front PR60 is somewhat laughable but really, as I have said to him in the past, it's his Jeep, his money and he should just get whatever he wants. I'm done here :yup:

EDIT: I'd like to point out that Off Road Evolution ran their EVOlander on last 2 JKX's with factory Dana 44's. IF the JKX is really the motivating factor in what axles one should get, that should answer a lot right there.

Glad you know my financial status. No, you are wrong, I can afford a PR60 but unless you're a millionaire 10k is a chunk of change. Yes, I have a lot of questions and come from all angles before I throw that kind of money out.

I asked about articulation because I don't know the answer....that's why I ask questions. I knew about the turning radius from the threads I've read which is why I didn't ask.