Suspension questions
SUSPENSION QUESTIONS
Q: What size lift do I need to get in order to fit 33" Tires?
A: You can run 33" tires at stock height but but, a 1" body lift or a set of 1" coil spacers will help prevent any rubbing issues when articulating. A 2" budget boost would provide a much better fit.
Q: What size lift do I need to get in order to fit 35" Tires?
A: You can practically run 35" tires stock but, you will need to run flat fenders or trim your factory set down. You will also need to trim your pinch seams to prevent them from digging into your rear tires when articulating. I personally would recommend a minimum of a 2.5" budget boost with a 1" body lift to do this with stock fenders but, a 3" lift would be a better way to go.
Q: What size lift do I need to get in order to fit 37" Tires?
A: If you run flat fenders or trim down your factory set, you can clear 37" tires well with as little as 3" of lift. If you wish to keep your factory fenders intact, I would recommend no less than 4.5" of lift to clear 37's and, depending on how much lift you actually get, you may need a bit more.
Q: How can I level out the factory rake that my JK has?
A: Installing a set of 3/4" coil spacers will help the front end of your JK to sit more level with the rear.
Q: I just installed a heavy duty bumper and winch and now the front of my Jeep is sagging. Is there any way to help regain the height that I lost?
A: Typically, a set of 3/4" coil spacers to help make up the difference.
Q: What is a 'BB' or budget boost?
A: A BB or budget boost is a basic 2"~2.5" suspension lift that is achieved through the installation of inexpensive coil spacers. These spacers are typically made out of polyurethane pucks that are 2"~2.5" thick and are installed on top of your Jeep's coils. Some kits have spacers that are taller up front and shorter in the rear to help level out your Jeep's factory rake.
Q: What are coil spacers?
A: Coil spacers are pucks typically made out of polyurethane and are designed to be stacked on top of your Jeep's suspension coils and come in varying thicknesses such as 0.5", 0.75", 1.75", 2" or 2.5". Smaller spacers are typically used to level sagging caused from the installation of a heavy bumper and/or winch and taller spacers are often used as an economical way to give you a small lift.
Q: What is Caster? How much do I need?
A: Caster is the angle upon which your front axle sits at in order to help keep your Jeep driving straight. Positive caster, which is what you want, will cause your axle end forgings or, axle C's to sit in a way that the top of them will be angled ever so slightly back. Too little or even negative caster angle can cause your Jeep to wander and feel 'flighty' or 'darty' as I've heard some people call it. From the factory, your JK will have +4.2° of caster. If you lift your Jeep and install larger tires, you will want to increase this amount just a bit to help compensate for the modifications. While more positive caster will make your Jeep handle better, too much can cause your drive shaft to vibrate and this is especially true if you are running an aftermarket drive shaft with a higher gear ratio. Ideally, you'll want to keep your caster as close to factory as possible.
Q: Do I need a new steering stabilizer now that I've lifted my Jeep JK Wrangler?
A: If you have your suspension and steering dialed in, no, you will not need a new steering stabilizer on your lifted Jeep JK Wrangler. Aftermarket steering stablizers are not needed even with a lift and/or bigger tires.
Q: Do I need an adjustable front track bar?
A: Not necessarily, especially if you just have a 2.5" lift. However, after installing a lift, your front axle will shift over to one side and an adjustable front track bar will allow you to re-center it. A better option might be to install a drag link flip and a reinforced track bar relocation bracket that is mounted to the axle. Doing this will help correct your steer geometry while at the same time, recenter your axle.
Q: Do I need to change out my track bar bolt to a 9/16" grade 8 bolt?
A: No. You just need to make sure that you maintain your Jeep and that includes checking the torque on all your bolts. Contrary to what some will try to suggest, the factory bolts are NOT the wrong size. If this were true, there would be no need for torque settings.
Q: Do I need to change out my factory bolts for grade 8 bolts?
A: Whoever started the myth that the Jeep JK Wrangler comes equipped with bolts that are the wrong size is a complete moron. No, you DO NOT need to replace ANY of your factory bolts as there's nothing wrong with them and they are plenty strong. What you need to do is maintain your Jeep and that should include checking the torque on all your bolts. Wheeling WILL loosen up bolts and they need to be checked and tightened as needed. If the right size bolt were the only thing that mattered, there would be no need for torque settings.
Q: Do I need an adjustable rear track bar?
A: Not necessarily, especially if you just have a 2.5" lift. A track bar relocation bracket will do a pretty good job of re-center your rear axle although, I would highly recommend that you install one that drops from the frame mount and NOT one that attaches to the axle mount. An axle mount bracket that isn't reinforced will fatigue the factory mount and cause it to fail.
Q: What is a drag link flip kit?
A: A drag link flip kit will allow you to install a new drag link that sits on top of your steering knucle. It is critical that you install a front track bar relocation bracket at the same time as that will keep both the track bar and drag link parallel to each other. Failure to do this will result in sub-standard handling. Installing both will correct your steering geometry and improve handling.
Q: Will installing a lift void my warranty?
A: It shouldn't. In order for your dealer to deny repairs to a break on your Jeep, they would need to prove that the damage was caused specifically by the lift. Having said that, your dealership can "flag" or place a restriction on your Jeep and this will in effect make it very difficult to have warranty work done. It's always best to check with your dealership to verify what they will be willing to do.
Q: Do I need to buy new shocks if I'm just installing a budget boost?
A: Need? No, but, unless you are buying a kit that comes with shock extensions, it is advisable to install a set of new longer shocks.
Q: Do I need to install bump stop extensions?
A: Yes. Bump stop extensions are designed to prevent the over compression of your coils and are absolutely necessary. Bump stop extensions can also help prevent the rubbing of fender flares at a full stuff as well as the bottoming out of shocks.
Q: What size bump stop extensions should I install with my lift?
A: Typically, you'll want bump stop extensions that are approximately as tall as the lift you just installed on your Jeep. In other words, if you lift your jeep 2", you'll want bump stop extensions that are about 2" tall. Now, I do say 'typically' as this is just a guide to follow and not necessarily a rule. Depending on the actual height of the coil, thickness of the wire used and the amount of winds it has, the rules can change.
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 3" lift?
A: On a 2007-11 JK, at bare minimum, you should have a set of 3" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, rear brake line extension brackets, new longer rear sway bar links (factory links can be installed up front), adjustable front track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. Optimally, I would recommend adjustable front upper and lower control arms as well as they will help you set your caster to the appropriate angle it needs to be. Also, if you have a 2-door, adjustable rear upper control arms and a new double cardin U-joint style drive shaft would be highly advisable.
On a 2012-Up, you will want to install a new front drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual transmission. Assuming you install new, longer shocks with your lift, the extra droop you will see at a flex will cause the slip shaft boot on the drive shaft to tear. However, that is just one problem you will encounter. Even if you install exhaust spacers or relocate the cross over, the CV boot at the output shaft will be sitting at a significant state of pinch and this will cause it to fail prematurely.
Q: What are all the components that I will need with a 4" lift?
A: For a 4" lift, you should have a set of 4" coils, bump stop extensions, longer shocks, extended brake lines, longer sway bar links, adjustable front track bar, adjustable rear track bar, front and rear track bar relocation brackets, dropped pitman arm, adjustable upper and lower control arms front and rear and new double cardin u-joint style drive shafts.
On a 2012-Up, you will want to install a new front drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual transmission. Assuming you install new, longer shocks with your lift, the extra droop you will see at a flex will cause the slip shaft boot on the drive shaft to tear. However, that is just one problem you will encounter. Even if you install exhaust spacers or relocate the cross over, the CV boot at the output shaft will be sitting at a significant state of pinch and this will cause it to fail prematurely.
Q: What is the purpose of a Long Arm kit?
A: The primary purpose of a long arm kit is to help correct suspension geometry and restore it to being closer to stock after installing tall lift on your Jeep. While long arms will reduce axle swipe when articulating, they WILL NOT give you more flex or provide more droop. The amount of droop you have will ultimately be determined by your shock length.
Q: At what lift height would I want to consider a Long Arm kit?
A: On a Jeep JK Wrangler, you can safely run factory length arms up to about 4" of lift and without significant effect. However, you can benefit from the suspension geometry correction long arms provide at 3.5" of lift.
Q: What is a Mid Arm?
A: A "mid arm" is nothing more than a marketing term for a control arm that is about 1" longer than factory. Of course, the term "mid" would suggest that it's halfway between factory length and "long" but, a true long arm is typically about 10" longer than factory. In other words, a "mid arm" is a far cry from half way or somewhere in the middle.
Q: Why do you disconnect your front sway bar links?
A: Disconnecting your Jeep's front sway bar links will allow your front axle a greater amount of articulation or flex on the trail. The more your axle can articulate, the more you can keep your tires on the ground even in severely uneven terrain and this will provide greater stability and traction.
Q: What are 'discos' or sway bar link quick disconnects?
A: Sway bar link quick disconnects are aftermarket links designed to make disconnecting and reconnecting your front sway bar links easier and faster.
Q: Do I need to disconnect my rear sway bar links?
A: No. You do not want or need to disconnect your rear sway bar links. Your rear sway bar is made out of a much narrower bar and is much softer so it will allow for plenty of unobstructed articulation while providing stability you want.
Q: Are there any write-ups on how to install a lift on my Jeep JK Wrangler?
A: Yes, click on the link below to see all the Project-JK suspension lift installation write-ups:
http://www.project-jk.com/?cat=12
Q: I just installed a lift on my JK. Do I need an alignment?
A: Due to the design of the new JK steering system, your toe-in will not change after installing a lift. If your lift did not come with adjustable upper or lower front control arms, you will not be able to adjust your caster angle. If you kit came with cam bolts, I would NOT recommend installing them to get your caster set as they would require you to notch out your lower control arm mounts and make them into slots (a mod that is not easily reversible). And, in my experience, it is very difficult to keep the bolts from loosening up. So, with all that said, the only thing an alignment shop will do for you is reenter your steering wheel and you can do that in your driveway with a 15mm wrench and 5 min of your time:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/basic-do-it-yourself-jeep-jk-wrangler-front-end-alignment
Now, if your lift kit did come with adjustable front upper and lower control arms, you can set your JK's caster following the instructions found towards the bottom of the same write-up.
Q: How much lift do I actually have?
A: This diagram will show you the exact dimensions you can find on the front of a stock JK. Measure your JK at the same points and you'll have your answer:
Q: I just installed a new suspension lift, why is my ride harsh, stiff or rough?
A: Assuming you installed new tires at the same time as your lift, there is a good chance that your tires have been inflated with a PSI that is too high. For optimal comfort and even tire wear. you should not run the recommended PSI listed on the sidewalls of your tires. Typically this will be way too much. On average for a 33" tire, I would recommend that you run your tires at approximately 28-30 PSI. For a 35" tire, I would recommend running approximately 26-28 PSI. For a 37" tire, I would recommend approximately 24-26 PSI.
Q: What are 'twin tube' or 'hydro' shocks?
A: The twin-tube design is the most common and often times the least expensive. These are the ordinary shock absorbers that typical passenger cars and trucks use, and they are widely available at car dealerships, auto parts stores and repair facilities. As the name implies, in a twin-tube shock, there are two actual tubes – one the outer shock body and the other a cylinder inside in which the piston moves. Tiny holes or orifices in the piston as well as special valves between the inner and outer tubes restrict the flow of oil to control wheel motion.
The limitations of twin-tube shocks become apparent when they are used over very bumpy roads. In this case, the rapid motion of the piston can cause the oil to overheat and to foam, reducing the shock absorber's ability to control wheel motion. The result is a ride that becomes increasingly sloppy, especially when traveling over a washboard surface. Heavy-duty twin-tube shock absorbers are usually stronger, with more robust piston shafts and mounting points, and they may use oils that are more resistant to foaming, but ultimately they still have the same limitations.
- Kevin Clemens, Mobil 1 Racing
Q: What are 'mono tube' or 'nitro' gas filled shocks?
A: The heat generated in the twin-tube shock tends to get trapped within the walls of the shock absorber body, reducing its effectiveness in controlling wheel motions. The mono-tube shock absorber uses a piston traveling within a single tube that is exposed more directly to the air. The general advantages and disadvantages of this design are:
• By getting rid of heat more easily, mono-tube shocks are less susceptible to overheating on rough roads.
• They are more expensive to manufacture however, and the tolerances must be higher and the seals better to keep the oil inside the shock body.
To prevent foaming and bubbles in the oil, which degrades shock-absorber performance, a gas-filled mono-tube shock has a chamber of high-pressure nitrogen above the oil chamber. This high-pressure gas makes it difficult for bubbles to form in the oil, even when the shock absorber moves in and out very quickly, as it might while traveling rapidly on a very rough or washboard road.
Gas-filled shocks are expensive, since they require strict manufacturing tolerances, but they are very resistant to fade and consequently are popular in off-road racing and rallying. Gas-filled shocks, by the way, are not the same as "air shocks" which use an air chamber separate from the shock oil. An air shock is actually an air spring that raises or lowers the vehicle when air is added or removed through a valve.
- Kevin Clemens, Mobil 1 Racing
Q: For $600, what am I really gaining with Dynatrac Pro Steer ball joints? Also, what makes them so much better than other popular brands that only cost $200-300?
A:Great question! One of the biggest differences is in the ability to rebuild Dynatrac ball joints. That said, to date, I've not seen or heard of a single case where someone's needed to rebuild theirs due to wear.
Another difference is that the ProSteer ball joints have a different method of operation. OE and other popular cheaper joints have a bottom joint that pivots and a top joint that allows up and down motion but does not pivot. The Dynatrac ball joints have a bottom joint that allows pivoting movement and a top joint that goes up and down AND pivots. This helps keep the ball joints aligned with each other without binding. Bent end forgings (axle C's) are all too common on JK's and, this additional function of the Dynatrac top joint is a critical part of ball joint longevity.
Last but not least, Dynatrac ProSteer's are made right here in the US and while this may make their cost higher, you are sure to get a product with much higher quality control.