Opinions trading up to a JKUR

evilmurph123

evilmurph123

New member
I currently have a 2012 unlimited sport and am weighing the pros and cons of modifying the sport or trading up for a 2012 or newer rubicon. My end goal is 37s, lockers and long arm. I'd like to hear your guys views on whether to get a used set of rubi axles and a t-case vs getting a possibly new rubicon and going from there. Thanks for any insight. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1408796171.000903.jpg
 
Being that you have a 2012 and already have the 3.6L I would say no. You will lose soo much money on the depreciation of the vehicle you already own, pay taxes and the increased cost of a new Jeep. You will have a better platform to start from, but you could do a lot of the major changes to your own JK to make it close to a Rubi for a fraction of the cost.

Buy and install a broken Rubi sway bar and install no limits at the cost of around $250 if your patient, used rubi front axle for 1500 if older up to 2500 if newer or a PR44, and that's all I'd do if I were you. Being in often muddy Seattle a sport t-case will suit you just fine, and I would also rather have a sport rear axle with an ARB locker than a Rubi rear any day. Toss on a pair of aftermarket rock sliders, and then your set. :twocents:
 
Those are options I've considered. I have been trying to find a decent deal on a rubicon front axle but have struck out so far or found ones that people want entirely too much money for. As far as the swaybar disco and sliders I'm fine sticking with my jks quick disconnects and am in the process of fabbing up my own sliders to replace the factory rubicon ones I have now.
 
I'm just too lazy for manual disco's lol. If you can do it, then fabing up your own frame welded sliders is by far the way to go to save money! I'd look into getting a PR44 and having a ARB installed on your current axle. The mod of your current rear axle(shafts, re-gear, and locker), a PR44 with ARB, and he ARB air system to run it and you'd be up and running with better than Rubi (better gears, better lockers, better axle shafts) for around 9K. All combined, that's WAY less than the lose in trade in/re-sale value of your current rig plus cost of a new rig, plus taxes, plus title and registration costs, plus replaceing any mods you've already done on your current rig.

I think you can tell I'm super biased on the financial standpoint of sticking with your current rig and using all that saved money for better than Rubi axles and aftermarket parts. ;)


EDIT: and I say this as I did the same thing with my old 07 Sahara when I upgraded to a 13 Rubi. I'd do it all over again because of the engine...but if it weren't for that, then no way would I have sold my old JK for a new one until the next model year came out at least.
 
Strizzy,

I'm pretty much in the same position, have decided to keep my 12 Sahara for the most part my mods are done, with the exception of my lockers and front axel and lockers.

I'm an east coast guy, would love to wheel out west but probably not on the cards for several years. Pretty sure it will be more trails and mud till the. I have found a new front rubicon housing for 1000 and the dyna trac for around 1900.

You think the rubicon axel will hold up for my needs it should I bite the bullet and spend the extra 900
 
CharlieK said:
Strizzy,

I'm pretty much in the same position, have decided to keep my 12 Sahara for the most part my mods are done, with the exception of my lockers and front axel and lockers.

I'm an east coast guy, would love to wheel out west but probably not on the cards for several years. Pretty sure it will be more trails and mud till the. I have found a new front rubicon housing for 1000 and the dyna trac for around 1900.

You think the rubicon axel will hold up for my needs it should I bite the bullet and spend the extra 900
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I would spend the additional $900 for the dynatrac. It wouldn't make sense to upgrade to a Rubi when you can buy the same or better parts for $6k. I dunno how close you are to paying it off, but when I own mine in 8 months, my payment will be going to mods. I feel like you just lose too much money trading it in.
 
StrizzyChris said:
I'm just too lazy for manual disco's lol. If you can do it, then fabing up your own frame welded sliders is by far the way to go to save money! I'd look into getting a PR44 and having a ARB installed on your current axle. The mod of your current rear axle(shafts, re-gear, and locker), a PR44 with ARB, and he ARB air system to run it and you'd be up and running with better than Rubi (better gears, better lockers, better axle shafts) for around 9K. All combined, that's WAY less than the lose in trade in/re-sale value of your current rig plus cost of a new rig, plus taxes, plus title and registration costs, plus replaceing any mods you've already done on your current rig.

I think you can tell I'm super biased on the financial standpoint of sticking with your current rig and using all that saved money for better than Rubi axles and aftermarket parts. ;)


EDIT: and I say this as I did the same thing with my old 07 Sahara when I upgraded to a 13 Rubi. I'd do it all over again because of the engine...but if it weren't for that, then no way would I have sold my old JK for a new one until the next model year came out at least.
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AGREE! Wait until the new model comes out in 2 years. There will probably be a diesel option by then!
 
tastethebeast said:
I would spend the additional $900 for the dynatrac. It wouldn't make sense to upgrade to a Rubi when you can buy the same or better parts for $6k. I dunno how close you are to paying it off, but when I own mine in 8 months, my payment will be going to mods. I feel like you just lose too much money trading it in.
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The housing for $1900 is just that, a housing. You need to install your factory D44 parts in it. So it would be close to $3000 plus labor for that route. ($1000 for rubi axle, $1900 for PR)
 
It's mine in 14 months, so it makes the most since to wait and go with the Dyna Trac. Pretty much all the research I've done says the OEM 44 isn't tons better than the OEM 30. Plan is to buy the housing soon and take my time getting every thing else I need to make it complete. My ARB twin compressor is itching to get installed and get to work. Thanks for the input guys
 
CharlieK said:
It's mine in 14 months, so it makes the most since to wait and go with the Dyna Trac. Pretty much all the research I've done says the OEM 44 isn't tons better than the OEM 30. Plan is to buy the housing soon and take my time getting every thing else I need to make it complete. My ARB twin compressor is itching to get installed and get to work. Thanks for the input guys
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I have been saving up for a PR44 for when I break my 30 ever since I bought my second JK. The nice thing about Florida is unless you are slogging through deep mud and break it, there isn't a lot of stuff you can destroy it on IMO. I'm from Colorado though, and D30's with 35's and up don't have a long life expectancy!
 
evilmurph123 said:
I currently have a 2012 unlimited sport and am weighing the pros and cons of modifying the sport or trading up for a 2012 or newer rubicon. My end goal is 37s, lockers and long arm. I'd like to hear your guys views on whether to get a used set of rubi axles and a t-case vs getting a possibly new rubicon and going from there. Thanks for any insight.
Click to expand...

As mentioned, being that you already have a 2012 with a 3.6L motor, I would just keep what you have, save up for a ProRock 44 and upgrade your rear axle to an ARB with 35 spline shafts. The beauty of the rear axle you have now is that you can do this and even better, the shafts are the same length so if you carry a spare, you would only need one. But, I doubt you would need it. As much as I would normally recommend a Rubicon, I'd be willing to bet that sticking with what you already have would be the more economical way to go.
 
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