Room for upper shock mounts?

T

Teejer

New member
I was looking at what was probably in the way of adding articulation, and, because OEM (Rubicon) the shocks are too short, I wanted longer shocks.

I hate bumpstops though... in that I want to preserve uptravel, not just add droop.

So, yeah, they are useful where needed, but, I like to avoid needing them.

:D


I was looking at the upper mounts for the rear bar pins and front posts...

...and, the body/stuff attached to the body, is in the way of going above those points.

I don't want to lower the lower mounts... I could also move the rear mounts along the axle to make a longer hypotenuse, etc...

... but the fronts are under the fuse box and ABS module stuff...and there's not much room to make the hypotenuse less steep, etc.

So, I HAVE an unused JK BL that would probably work, and that would add some room for slightly longer compressed length shocks.

Has anyone done this, so I am not reinventing the wheel?

:D


Also, the exhaust is, for some bizarre reason, crossing UNDER the front drive shaft!

WTF?

(Why The Front ... shaft...?)

I think a strategic spacer or two could slide the involved pipe section closer to the output, where it won't block any (foreseeable?) droop?

Has any one done that either?

It looks like my compressed lengths (Crushing the stops) are about 15"... and, 16" plus compressed shock lengths are where the droop starts to seem reasonable.

So, for example, I could go to maybe a ~ 17" shock with less bump stop than if I didn't move the mounts.

Whatcha all think?

Help?

:D
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
wtf-gif.gif
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Teejer said:
I was looking at what was probably in the way of adding articulation, and, because OEM (Rubicon) the shocks are too short, I wanted longer shocks.

I hate bumpstops though... in that I want to preserve uptravel, not just add droop.

So, yeah, they are useful where needed, but, I like to avoid needing them.

:D


I was looking at the upper mounts for the rear bar pins and front posts...

...and, the body/stuff attached to the body, is in the way of going above those points.

I don't want to lower the lower mounts... I could also move the rear mounts along the axle to make a longer hypotenuse, etc...

... but the fronts are under the fuse box and ABS module stuff...and there's not much room to make the hypotenuse less steep, etc.

So, I HAVE an unused JK BL that would probably work, and that would add some room for slightly longer compressed length shocks.

Has anyone done this, so I am not reinventing the wheel?

:D


Also, the exhaust is, for some bizarre reason, crossing UNDER the front drive shaft!

WTF?

(Why The Front ... shaft...?)

I think a strategic spacer or two could slide the involved pipe section closer to the output, where it won't block any (foreseeable?) droop?

Has any one done that either?

It looks like my compressed lengths (Crushing the stops) are about 15"... and, 16" plus compressed shock lengths are where the droop starts to seem reasonable.

So, for example, I could go to maybe a ~ 17" shock with less bump stop than if I didn't move the mounts.

Whatcha all think?

Help?

:D
Click to expand...
I read this twice. My head still hurts. You're wanting to possibly spend a shit load of time and money redesigning your Jeep to get one extra inch of droop? Is that correct?
 
T

Teejer

New member
WJCO said:
I read this twice. My head still hurts. You're wanting to possibly spend a shit load of time and money redesigning your Jeep to get one extra inch of droop? Is that correct?
Click to expand...
Lol

Sorry...

... no...

Exhaust is right under the driveshaft, so, want to shift it towards the output... that would allow about 4-5" inches of droop alone.

Oem shocks are ~ 15 when compressed... but only have ~ 8-9" of travel.

If I want 12" travel, I'd need ~ 17" when compressed, because of shock body sizes for that, etc.

17" + 12" = 29"

So, a max of 29" might be available, probably closer to 27-28" in practice of usable travel if a wee stop is needed, etc.

So, a bit more room for shocks can allow ~ 28" extended shocks...a big improvement...not an extra inch.

:)
 
bobfriesenhahn

bobfriesenhahn

Hooked
Teejer said:
Lol

Sorry...

... no...

Exhaust is right under the driveshaft, so, want to shift it towards the output... that would allow about 4-5" inches of droop alone.

Oem shocks are ~ 15 when compressed... but only have ~ 8-9" of travel.

If I want 12" travel, I'd need ~ 17" when compressed, because of shock body sizes for that, etc.

17" + 12" = 29"

So, a max of 29" might be available, probably closer to 27-28" in practice of usable travel if a wee stop is needed, etc.

So, a bit more room for shocks can allow ~ 28" extended shocks...a big improvement...not an extra inch.

:)
Click to expand...
Can you make holes through the chassis and mount the top of the shock inside the Jeep? That would allow longer shocks to be used.
 
T

Teejer

New member
bobfriesenhahn said:
Can you make holes through the chassis and mount the top of the shock inside the Jeep? That would allow longer shocks to be used.
Click to expand...
There's stuff above it though, so a hole alone wouldn't change the headroom...

...so I was considering a body lift to get all 4 corners up out of the way.

I was just seeing if anyone had done that.

:)

For exhaust, just asking if anyone had shifted the pipe under the driveshaft out of the way.

That's it in a nutshell...without the supporting details that seemed to dilute rather than clarify.

:0
 
RESURECTIONJK

RESURECTIONJK

Hooked
That’s a lot of work do gain some travel considering there is a much simpler way to achieve this without the brain damage. Front exhaust loop elimination (kits available) and then outboard the rear shocks and run some 14 or 16” Coilovers. Relocate the battery box and fuse block and run some 14’s up into the engine bay and be done with it. Or you know… fuck it all up I guess.

EVO DTD and EVOLEVER would achieve all of this also without hacking shit up but…. Please proceed. Include pics and/or video.
 
T

Teejer

New member
A BL is a few hours and not much money, and might allow 17" compressed shock lengths. .

... and a few inches each for a couple of exhaust spacers, plus some longer bolts to hold them, is not expensive, compared to coil overs, etc.

Not sure where the over reactions are coming from?

This is a budget build, not a trophy truck.

:)

Is this not a good forum to discuss budget stuff?

I'm getting the impression I walked into the wrong bar.

:0
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Teejer said:
A BL is a few hours and not much money, and might allow 17" compressed shock lengths. .

... and a few inches each for a couple of exhaust spacers, plus some longer bolts to hold them, is not expensive, compared to coil overs, etc.

Not sure where the over reactions are coming from?

This is a budget build, not a trophy truck.

:)

Is this not a good forum to discuss budget stuff?

I'm getting the impression I walked into the wrong bar.

:0
Click to expand...
No Bud Light here. Sorry, sweetie. Please, simplify your objective. There are tons of knowledgeable folk here with plenty of experience on the JK platform. What are you going for? Keep it simple. Your previous posts are so complex that you're summoning demon spirits to help complete your build. It's pretty cumbersome.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Teejer said:
A BL is a few hours and not much money, and might allow 17" compressed shock lengths. .

... and a few inches each for a couple of exhaust spacers, plus some longer bolts to hold them, is not expensive, compared to coil overs, etc.

Not sure where the over reactions are coming from?

This is a budget build, not a trophy truck.

:)

Is this not a good forum to discuss budget stuff?

I'm getting the impression I walked into the wrong bar.

:0
Click to expand...
No it’s a good forum. I just don’t think anyone understand what the hell you are saying or trying to do.
 
RESURECTIONJK

RESURECTIONJK

Hooked
Teejer said:
A BL is a few hours and not much money, and might allow 17" compressed shock lengths. .

... and a few inches each for a couple of exhaust spacers, plus some longer bolts to hold them, is not expensive, compared to coil overs, etc.

Not sure where the over reactions are coming from?

This is a budget build, not a trophy truck.

:)

Is this not a good forum to discuss budget stuff?

I'm getting the impression I walked into the wrong bar.

:0
Click to expand...
Okay, I’ll bite cuz I know the path you’re trying to take and I can tell you, it’s a very short one with little to gain and the consequences of trying to “budget” some more travel won’t be worth it.

Simply relocating your mounts and slapping on longer shocks won’t get you much unless you’re willing to take the time and spend the money to dial in the rest. Longer shocks are just a small piece of the puzzle. Without longer (adjustable) steering linkage, track bars, relocating and welding on proper track bar mounts, AND at a minimum adjustable control arms (really should be running long arms to keep the axles moving on a flatter arc allowing the shocks to travel their full length without binding) you’re not going to get as much travel as you think and certainly not without negatively impacting other aspects of the suspension geometry and handling of your jeep. Also, bump stops are essential to keep you from tearing up some very expensive shit, not just to limit wheel travel. Get that wrong and it won’t just be rubbing tires and ripping off fenders.

And this isn’t “trophy truck” science. It’s basic suspension setup and if you try to budget your way around it, you’ll find yourself chasing gremlins.
 
T

Teejer

New member
So, I walked into the right bar, but pregame too much and made no sense?

Sounds about right.

(Sorry, I'll try to edit things down and avoid the stream of consciousness)

:D
 
T

Teejer

New member
Well, I figured out the search terms, and, I don't have to reinvent one of the wheels, it seems several places sell ready made exhaust spacers to keep the driveshaft off that exhaust pipe.

Example:


So, one question down, one to go.

Hopefully the second one is also an off the shelf solution too.

As no one seemed to understand my ramblings here about the exhaust/ driveshaft, the link might be more articulate than I was (wasn't?)

:D
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Teejer said:
Well, I figured out the search terms, and, I don't have to reinvent one of the wheels, it seems several places sell ready made exhaust spacers to keep the driveshaft off that exhaust pipe.

Example:


So, one question down, one to go.

Hopefully the second one is also an off the shelf solution too.

As no one seemed to understand my ramblings here about the exhaust/ driveshaft, the link might be more articulate than I was (wasn't?)

:D
Click to expand...
Those exhaust spacers move the exhaust down an inch if your lucky. It’s not really enough for anything and the purpose of it is to clear the boot on the stock driveshaft and prevent it from getting damaged.
 
T

Teejer

New member
OverlanderJK said:
Those exhaust spacers move the exhaust down an inch if your lucky. It’s not really enough for anything and the purpose of it is to clear the boot on the stock driveshaft and prevent it from getting damaged.
Click to expand...
I hear you, but when I looked under there, it's more about moving the pipe closer to the output, than down... so the arc of the shaft on droop has to get further down to hit the pipe.

As I'm a grandfather on SS, and less spry than I used to be, I was trying to avoid going under there, again, in 90+ heat, but, I guess I'll need to just bite the bullet and take actual measurements with the pipe off to see the potential gains etc.

Due to the angles, I was thinking closer to 5" than 1", but, I guess I need to get wrenching.

:)
 
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