BChaffins
New member
Well, It was not on purpose.
Searching for My Death Wobble source
- Thread starter BChaffins
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Well, It was not on purpose.
BChaffins
New member
I seem to always learn a lot from the Wayalife forums and even though it seems to get heated at times sometimes causing a little friction brings out the best.
This has been a good learning experience and for the cost of a few bolts I feel its been worth the ride. And now I own a ball joint puller which can't be a bad thing either. If my wobble is still there in a day or two I'll be heading down the ball joint road I'm sure. Everything else seems to be secure and is properly torqued. I own a fairly good Utica micrometer style torque wrench and it has never failed me yet.
This has been a good learning experience and for the cost of a few bolts I feel its been worth the ride. And now I own a ball joint puller which can't be a bad thing either. If my wobble is still there in a day or two I'll be heading down the ball joint road I'm sure. Everything else seems to be secure and is properly torqued. I own a fairly good Utica micrometer style torque wrench and it has never failed me yet.
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
How many miles are on the ball joints? They don't last long...
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
my factory ones lasted about 24,000 miles.
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
Ok. I imagine mine will last a bit long than that... seeing as I dont wheel much and possibly probably wont wheel at all next year.
Good to know. Thanks.
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BChaffins
New member
46k on my 2008 2dr Sahara. I bought it with 40k on it. Still had the original brakes and tires. I'm still running the original tires for a couple more weeks. It seems to have spent a lot of time wet based on the amount of rust on the brake system. I did not see any visible movement when I checked them, but I realize that doesn't tell me everything.
I can't tell you how hard it was driven since I bought it used.
BChaffins
New member
If your on your 3rd Factory set I guess my question is: Is there a better part then Factory? I was looking at ordering a set of Synergy ball joints.
sean.m.adams33
New member
Dynatrac pro steers. The cost is high but they are rebuildable.
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
As mention the Dynatracs are hands down the best, if you can't afford them. The Crown HD ball joints are the same as the polys...
CrazyLarry
New member
I've seen this written before. How exactly do you know they are the same as synergys. Has someone opened then up and compared them? Have samples of the materials been taken and analyzed? Just trying to understand so when I get my next set of balljoints I can save some money and get crowns if they truely are the same
It's really no secret. Unless it's made in the USA like Dynatrac, there are only so many overseas manufacturers out there and the one who makes these ball joints is called Yuhuan Nahui. Same goes for gears, they are all made by the same South Korean company only packaged in different boxes. Being that gears are bigger and have information etched into the side of them, you can even see the circle K logo in them which belongs to the company Cha. So long as you're willing to order a minimum of 500 units, you can actually buy these ball joints for about $5 a piece and put them in a box with your name on it. I kid you not.
jedg
New member
Not sure it's been brought up before... the difference between the two bolts (14mm and 9/16") is just 11/1000ths of an inch.
FWIW, I have 78,000 on my stock bolts and no issues and won't switch as I see no reason to. BUT, I thought I would educate myself on the real differences between the two bolts.
As for the difference between Grade 8 and Metric 10.9; I looked at SAE J429 and ISO 898.1 (2013 version). I think it's a wash and so I don't think the argument that the 9/16th bolt is 'better' holds water. If anything, if you're not careful and use the course thread 9/16 (12 threads per inch), you might exceed the torque capacity of the bolt you're using.
I know one argument will be the shoulder present on the 9/16" bolt will make it stronger. Mechanically this is a wash as the threaded area portion will still be the weak point on the bolt. (per http://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf).
The next argument for the shouldered bolt is that the shoulder works as a pivot point for rotation. I will argue that if the bolt is properly torqued, this isn't rotated upon. Rather the bushing (that surrounds the bolt) is held in place and the joint rotates around that. This would especially be true with aftermarket joints??
ISO 10.9
Med Carbon Alloy Steel, quenched and tempered
Tensile Strength - minimum 1040 mPa (150,000 psi)
14mm (M14 x 2.00) has a torque load up to 160 ft lbs dry
SAE Grade 8
Med Carbon Alloy Steel, quenched and tempered
Tensile Strength - 150,000 psi (1040 mPa)
9/16" (with 12 threads per inch) has a torque load up to 135 ft lbs dry
9/16" (with 18 threads per inch) has a torque load up to 150 ft lbs dry
Also, both have the same proof load (working tensile strength) of 130,000 psi (900 mPa)
FWIW, I have 78,000 on my stock bolts and no issues and won't switch as I see no reason to. BUT, I thought I would educate myself on the real differences between the two bolts.
As for the difference between Grade 8 and Metric 10.9; I looked at SAE J429 and ISO 898.1 (2013 version). I think it's a wash and so I don't think the argument that the 9/16th bolt is 'better' holds water. If anything, if you're not careful and use the course thread 9/16 (12 threads per inch), you might exceed the torque capacity of the bolt you're using.
I know one argument will be the shoulder present on the 9/16" bolt will make it stronger. Mechanically this is a wash as the threaded area portion will still be the weak point on the bolt. (per http://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf).
The next argument for the shouldered bolt is that the shoulder works as a pivot point for rotation. I will argue that if the bolt is properly torqued, this isn't rotated upon. Rather the bushing (that surrounds the bolt) is held in place and the joint rotates around that. This would especially be true with aftermarket joints??
ISO 10.9
Med Carbon Alloy Steel, quenched and tempered
Tensile Strength - minimum 1040 mPa (150,000 psi)
14mm (M14 x 2.00) has a torque load up to 160 ft lbs dry
SAE Grade 8
Med Carbon Alloy Steel, quenched and tempered
Tensile Strength - 150,000 psi (1040 mPa)
9/16" (with 12 threads per inch) has a torque load up to 135 ft lbs dry
9/16" (with 18 threads per inch) has a torque load up to 150 ft lbs dry
Also, both have the same proof load (working tensile strength) of 130,000 psi (900 mPa)
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Speaking of ball joints, did you ever get around to inspecting and replacing the OEM ones you've got?
BChaffins
New member
I have NOT REPLACED my Ball Joints yet. But they are on the short list. I have no doubt that they are due. Life got in the way for now and she's been running fine.
I'm thinking of buying the parts so when I get the bug to do some weekend Jeep work I'll have the parts.
Brian
2008 Sahara 2dr
Manual 6sp
AEV 3.5" DualSport
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
TrekArmor seat covers
I'm thinking of buying the parts so when I get the bug to do some weekend Jeep work I'll have the parts.
Brian
2008 Sahara 2dr
Manual 6sp
AEV 3.5" DualSport
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
TrekArmor seat covers
CrazyLarry
New member
Gotcha thanks