Welder good for c-gussets

.....The biggest negative to a light weight 110v machine like the 130 is that it has a 20% duty cycle. That's a lot of sitting around and waiting for the machine to cool after you burn in a bit of weld. It's annoying to get the weld puddle going well, you're "stacking dimes" and "phew" it shuts down after 5 minutes and you have to wait 20 minutes for it to cool down (20%).

Maybe it’s because I have an older machine.... or the welder dude that sold it to me, modified it.... or my welding style... or I’m just lucky..... but mine has NEVER shut off in 10+ years.... I get the Duty cycle thing, but really how often are you doing a really long run... I usually stop every couple inches or less and check it or brush it..... I even tend to pulse the trigger which helps creates a “dime” effect and might be easier on the welder (or not). But I consider myself an amateur at best so I could be doing it all wrong... [emoji51]
 
+1 on stick welder. Cheapest option if you aren’t welding all the time. And with practice welds look just fine. I actually saw a positive review of a 220v stick welder off amazon for $115. Been very close to buying one just because.


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Maybe it’s because I have an older machine.... or the welder dude that sold it to me, modified it.... or my welding style... or I’m just lucky..... but mine has NEVER shut off in 10+ years.... I get the Duty cycle thing, but really how often are you doing a really long run... I usually stop every couple inches or less and check it or brush it..... I even tend to pulse the trigger which helps creates a “dime” effect and might be easier on the welder (or not). But I consider myself an amateur at best so I could be doing it all wrong... [emoji51]

The problem with pulsing the trigger, or short runs is that when welding thick materials you do not get proper penetration and also end up with a "dirty weld" from inclusions. You can use this technique to clean up the looks after though.


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Getting your own welder may not be the cheapest option in the short-term, but long term if you think you'll be doing projects that would use one it may pay off. I got a Millermatic 141 and love it. I went with the Miller because it had much more fine adjustments available. If you learn to adjust the settings and get a few different wire sizes it'll do just about anything (1/4 thick or less for best results though). I did my C gussets with them and it turned out just fine, but I practiced a lot before hand. I kept wet rags on top of the ball joints to keep them from overheating and just did a couple inches at a time. The MIG is pretty easy to learn too, you might need a lot more practice time (and grinding time lol) learning with a stick welder. I definitely spent more than if I'd paid someone for the gussets, but over-all I'm sure it's paid for itself by now.
 
I have a Hobart 190 welder. I’m really happy with it. I’ve welded sheet metal all the way up to 3/8” without issues. I welded my truss and gusset myself. My welder has definitely paid for itself.


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The problem with pulsing the trigger, or short runs is that when welding thick materials you do not get proper penetration and also end up with a "dirty weld" from inclusions. You can use this technique to clean up the looks after though.


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For Sure... it’s not a rapid pulse though.... kind of a 2-3 second on, then really fast rest and repeat.... For some reason it comes out cleaner... and nothing has broke yet... lol... but I get what you’re saying.... Probably not the best...

We should start a welding thread... I’ve got a Miller Sychrowave 200 TIG sitting in my garage that I need to finish learning how to use. If I didn’t have kids and such a shitty schedule, I’d probably take some welding classes.
 
For Sure... it’s not a rapid pulse though.... kind of a 2-3 second on, then really fast rest and repeat.... For some reason it comes out cleaner... and nothing has broke yet... lol... but I get what you’re saying.... Probably not the best...

We should start a welding thread... I’ve got a Miller Sychrowave 200 TIG sitting in my garage that I need to finish learning how to use. If I didn’t have kids and such a shitty schedule, I’d probably take some welding classes.

You could always test out your technique on some scrap, then cut and etch it and see how well it penetrated.

I wish I had a TIG, so much $$ though. Still, doing aluminum and stainless with those beautiful beads...
 
For Sure... it’s not a rapid pulse though.... kind of a 2-3 second on, then really fast rest and repeat.... For some reason it comes out cleaner... and nothing has broke yet... lol... but I get what you’re saying.... Probably not the best...

We should start a welding thread... I’ve got a Miller Sychrowave 200 TIG sitting in my garage that I need to finish learning how to use. If I didn’t have kids and such a shitty schedule, I’d probably take some welding classes.

There already is a couple on here. I'm sure the mods can merge this with it.
 
A good 120v Hobart from tractor supply will go a pretty far ways. Skip the flux core and get a gas. There’s enough YouTube videos to teach you, as stated you need to practice before going near your axles.


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A good 120v Hobart from tractor supply will go a pretty far ways. Skip the flux core and get a gas. There’s enough YouTube videos to teach you, as stated you need to practice before going near your axles.


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Totally agree to this. I taught myself how to weld when I was building mini trucks many years ago. Hobart is made by Miller and it’s a great welder.


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Thank you all for your input! I’ve got some thinking to do! I really want to get a welder and give it a shot lol


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https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-handler-140-mig-wire-welder?cm_vc=-10005
This is a great entry level mig, up to 1/4” steel should handle all Jeep projects. On top of the welder you’ll need a gas tank from a welding vendor in your area like Airgas. Gloves, helmet, pliers, and a 4 1/2” grinder can be had from harbor freight (no drill master, get the Chicago electric) very cheaply.
If you YouTube how to mig weld there’s some very good tutorials from experts.


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My advice is that it's still better having a certified welder show you how at least one time. Throw on a mask and watch a master. I was amazed how slow you go when doing a proper puddle. If I hadn't of taken a 6 hour class at the local fab shop, I never would have figured it out. Plus you get to hear the right "sound" of the sizzle.

I didn't trust my skills for a critical thing like a track bar bracket. I was horrified when I used my local Miami "pro" welding shop (recommend by the local club) and the old man used "farm rod" to zap on my track bar bracket without even cleaning the paint off the metal. "Farm rod will go through manure" was his quote. Then he zapped it all on in the wrong spot after it fell out of the clamps and didn't verify it was aligned properly. He had to cut it all off and zap it back on. Looks like total horse shit. But it hasn't fallen off yet and survived a week in Moab and 10,000 miles so far. Next time I'm doing the welding myself.
 
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-handler-140-mig-wire-welder?cm_vc=-10005
This is a great entry level mig, up to 1/4” steel should handle all Jeep projects. On top of the welder you’ll need a gas tank from a welding vendor in your area like Airgas. Gloves, helmet, pliers, and a 4 1/2” grinder can be had from harbor freight (no drill master, get the Chicago electric) very cheaply.
If you YouTube how to mig weld there’s some very good tutorials from experts.


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Awesome! Thank you [emoji106]

My advice is that it's still better having a certified welder show you how at least one time. Throw on a mask and watch a master. I was amazed how slow you go when doing a proper puddle. If I hadn't of taken a 6 hour class at the local fab shop, I never would have figured it out. Plus you get to hear the right "sound" of the sizzle.

I didn't trust my skills for a critical thing like a track bar bracket. I was horrified when I used my local Miami "pro" welding shop (recommend by the local club) and the old man used "farm rod" to zap on my track bar bracket without even cleaning the paint off the metal. "Farm rod will go through manure" was his quote. Then he zapped it all on in the wrong spot after it fell out of the clamps and didn't verify it was aligned properly. He had to cut it all off and zap it back on. Looks like total horse shit. But it hasn't fallen off yet and survived a week in Moab and 10,000 miles so far. Next time I'm doing the welding myself.

Absolutely, I had a friend give me a quick tutorial (not hands on) when he was fixing a dump trailer gate hinge for my family business a while ago. I learn the best that way


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https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-handler-140-mig-wire-welder?cm_vc=-10005
This is a great entry level mig, up to 1/4” steel should handle all Jeep projects. On top of the welder you’ll need a gas tank from a welding vendor in your area like Airgas. Gloves, helmet, pliers, and a 4 1/2” grinder can be had from harbor freight (no drill master, get the Chicago electric) very cheaply.
If you YouTube how to mig weld there’s some very good tutorials from experts.


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The Hobart machines are definitely best bang for buck. They use miller internals, in fact when I have bought parts for mine actual Miller parts is what I received. The only thing you lose out on vs the miller is the fine tuning for voltage, and the auto set feature on the newest millers.


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https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-handler-140-mig-wire-welder?cm_vc=-10005
This is a great entry level mig, up to 1/4” steel should handle all Jeep projects. On top of the welder you’ll need a gas tank from a welding vendor in your area like Airgas. Gloves, helmet, pliers, and a 4 1/2” grinder can be had from harbor freight (no drill master, get the Chicago electric) very cheaply.
If you YouTube how to mig weld there’s some very good tutorials from experts.


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The Hobart machines are definitely best bang for buck. They use miller internals, in fact when I have bought parts for mine actual Miller parts is what I received. The only thing you lose out on vs the miller is the fine tuning for voltage, and the auto set feature on the newest millers.


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The Hobart machines are definitely best bang for buck. They use miller internals, in fact when I have bought parts for mine actual Miller parts is what I received. The only thing you lose out on vs the miller is the fine tuning for voltage, and the auto set feature on the newest millers.

I tried using that Auto Set feature and didn't like it, it seemed like it was always trying to feed way to much wire out. The fine tuning is really handy though. Especially for making small adjustments as you go and your material heats up.
 
I tried using that Auto Set feature and didn't like it, it seemed like it was always trying to feed way to much wire out. The fine tuning is really handy though. Especially for making small adjustments as you go and your material heats up.

I haven't used it but I have heard it will produce acceptable results, but not great. Get much better results from setting manually. Once someone gets the hang of setting voltage and speed the auto set never gets used.
 
I haven't used it but I have heard it will produce acceptable results, but not great. Get much better results from setting manually. Once someone gets the hang of setting voltage and speed the auto set never gets used.

That sounds about right. It stuck the two together, but it looked cold and lumpy :grayno:
 
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