What was done to your rig this week?

MericaMade said:
There is app called Clinometer you can get for your phone. Set in on the garage floor near tire or under ball joint and zero it out, then set it on the ball joint to give you the proper number. I have found that if you don’t measure parallel with the frame and point the angle finder outside the line of the frame you get a false reading.
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Thanks not sure why I didn't think of that.
Getting roughly 2.2 on both sides top of ball joints. and the same on the flat rings on the front of either side of the differential.
I have zero vibrations. I can steer one handed at 75-80 mph. The only thing I can feel is a little side to side back and forth on a bad road. If that makes sense. Not quite bucking.
Shop says they set it at (quote) about 5-7 degrees. If you are not having driveline vibration issues, the pinion angle will be fine.
But the readings I'm getting and just looking at it, the damn thing is not pointing at the T-case at all. Would this have any bad effect on the life of the u-joint?
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Seahawkfan said:
Thanks not sure why I didn't think of that.
Getting roughly 2.2 on both sides top of ball joints. and the same on the flat rings on the front of either side of the differential.
I have zero vibrations. I can steer one handed at 75-80 mph. The only thing I can feel is a little side to side back and forth on a bad road. If that makes sense. Not quite bucking.
Shop says they set it at (quote) about 5-7 degrees. If you are not having driveline vibration issues, the pinion angle will be fine.
But the readings I'm getting and just looking at it, the damn thing is not pointing at the T-case at all. Would this have any bad effect on the life of the u-joint?
View attachment 365059
Click to expand...
That angle just looks kinda concerning to me. Keep in mind, that angle will get significantly worse with suspension droop. We’re looking at it sitting levelish on the ground.
 
Changed the fluid in my 6 speed today. AFTER I bought the special little plug socket (didn’t work) and a 17mm short socket (didn’t work), I started digging through my toolbox and found this little spacer that came with my CB antenna. It worked perfectly to get in between the trans and exhaust cross pipe, paired it with a wrench and worked like a charm.B148ADE0-D3BE-4863-9620-C70B1847FC4C.jpegE998B1A4-7800-4A7B-857E-BF6CD5A715BF.jpeg
 
Added a hi-lift roll bar mount for my jack. I read that the roll bar in the JL is hard to drill & didn’t believe it... WRONG! The damn roll bar is damn near too hard to get a good center punch. Broke every single 1/16” bit I had (4), one 1/8” bit, and knocked the corner off of one 3/16” bit.

Also I was hoping to be able to run the cover with the jack at the highest position... wrong again
 

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CalSgt said:
Added a hi-lift roll bar mount for my jack. I read that the roll bar in the JL is hard to drill & didn’t believe it... WRONG! The damn roll bar is damn near too hard to get a good center punch. Broke every single 1/16” bit I had (4), one 1/8” bit, and knocked the corner off of one 3/16” bit.

Also I was hoping to be able to run the cover with the jack at the highest position... wrong again
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Bummer when the Internet is right.
 
CalSgt said:
Added a hi-lift roll bar mount for my jack. I read that the roll bar in the JL is hard to drill & didn’t believe it... WRONG! The damn roll bar is damn near too hard to get a good center punch. Broke every single 1/16” bit I had (4), one 1/8” bit, and knocked the corner off of one 3/16” bit.

Also I was hoping to be able to run the cover with the jack at the highest position... wrong again
Click to expand...
It looks smoky as hell there.
 
Seahawkfan said:
Thanks not sure why I didn't think of that.
Getting roughly 2.2 on both sides top of ball joints. and the same on the flat rings on the front of either side of the differential.
I have zero vibrations. I can steer one handed at 75-80 mph. The only thing I can feel is a little side to side back and forth on a bad road. If that makes sense. Not quite bucking.
Shop says they set it at (quote) about 5-7 degrees. If you are not having driveline vibration issues, the pinion angle will be fine.
But the readings I'm getting and just looking at it, the damn thing is not pointing at the T-case at all. Would this have any bad effect on the life of the u-joint?
View attachment 365059
Click to expand...
Your pinion is almost pointing down from the look of this picture and with that angle I am guessing you are more like 10-12 degrees right now. The pinion should be pointing at your transfer case and more so in a straight line. I focus on getting the pinion and DS inline first then check castor to make sure I am within specs. I am surprised you are not getting a vibration when you drive at that angle.. And yes, is will wear out the u joint faster. You live about 45 mins from me, if you want swing by my house over the weekend and we will dial it in in a few hours.
 
Installed the Yakima OverhaulHD bed racks with 60” cross bars on the top. Needed something to help hauling surfboards, paddle boards, kayaks, or eventually a rtt. Still waiting on the side bars to become available again to mount rotopax and other accessories in the future.
 

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-AINOKEA- said:
Installed the Yakima OverhaulHD bed racks with 60” cross bars on the top. Needed something to help hauling surfboards, paddle boards, kayaks, or eventually a rtt. Still waiting on the side bars to become available again to mount rotopax and other accessories in the future.
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Nice, those will come in handy!
 
MericaMade said:
Your pinion is almost pointing down from the look of this picture and with that angle I am guessing you are more like 10-12 degrees right now. The pinion should be pointing at your transfer case and more so in a straight line. I focus on getting the pinion and DS inline first then check castor to make sure I am within specs. I am surprised you are not getting a vibration when you drive at that angle.. And yes, is will wear out the u joint faster. You live about 45 mins from me, if you want swing by my house over the weekend and we will dial it in in a few hours.
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If you don't mind,that would be great. Let me know what day is good for you.
 
Remaining parts showed up this afternoon so I installed the new Dynomax Ultra Flo w/ resonator. Started out trying to run resonator before the muffler. Looked good until I started to tighten up the clamps. Pulled everything into the frame. So I ended up doing it like everybody else. I also used the existing over the axle pipe to finish it off just past the rear axle.
Lots quieter on the high RPM pulls and down shifts than my previous Magnaflow cat-back.
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I got my Clayton overland plus control arms, rear track bar bracket and track bar installed. That combined with the Fox 2.0 shocks made a world of difference in how the jeep rides!
 
Post-500 mile gear inspection. Also added an OME steering stabilizer to fix by busted OEM (flipped it too). Got tired of just looking at the King cardboard box so I installed the rear shocks today; fronts are still on backorder, should arrive Sept-Oct(ish)....

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Replaced right rear speed sensor on the JKU. Another broken red clip and now the harness won’t seat on the sensor connector. Any ideas on how to replace the clip on the harness side?
 
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