What was done to your rig this week?

Ddays said:
Honest question: Why are folks obsessed with the temp range of these V6’s? None of the 4 Jeeps I have with this engine have ever overheated. I’ve driven Gruff out West several times through the mountains on I70 and never came close. If anything will do it it’s driving up the Ike. Other than me thinking he was gonna blow up due to the lack of O2 and redlining most of the way up zero issue.

Again, honest question not an attack. I’m genuinely curious
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To be fair, these are the same people who are obsessed with things like tire weight.

Nevada has 314 named mountain ranges, making it the state with the most mountain ranges in the United States and it isn't exactly known for it's cool summers. Virtually every auto maker does testing out here and down in Bullhead City, AZ because of this. Of the 5 vehicles I've owned and still own with the Pentastar, only 2 have ever gotten hot. One was due to losing a serpentine belt and the other was due to a lower radiator hose failure. But hey, what would I know.
 
I basically installed this because I don't like my temps to run high. My ride is heavy and I put the hammer down. I'm not in the right lane lollygaggin. For a few bucks
It gives me peace of mind.
 
Cagle said:
I basically installed this because I don't like my temps to run high. My ride is heavy and I put the hammer down. I'm not in the right lane lollygaggin. For a few bucks
It gives me peace of mind.
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:rolleyes: Lol, fair point but you ain't unique - there are lots of built rigs here and no one's ever overheated unless it was equipment failure that I've ever seen. The Jeep engineers shit the bed with the electronics and lots of other issues but overheating has never been one of them.

Social media on I guess....
 
Ddays said:
:rolleyes: Lol, fair point but you ain't unique - there are lots of built rigs here and no one's ever overheated unless it was equipment failure that I've ever seen. The Jeep engineers shit the bed with the electronics and lots of other issues but overheating has never been one of them.

Social media on I guess....
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I truly understand I'm not unique, but my friends make shit tons of money replacing head gaskets on these rides. So can I replace the head gasket? Absolutely. Do I really want to, Not really. would I rather try to buy some time with a small mod absolutely, so. WGAF
 
Cagle said:
I truly understand I'm not unique, but my friends make shit tons of money replacing head gaskets on these rides. So can I replace the head gasket? Absolutely. Do I really want to, Not really. would I rather try to buy some time with a small mod absolutely, so. WGAF
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?? Again, another issue I've never heard of on a Jeep. Maybe I'm wrong, IDK, but anyone else here ever blow a head gasket? I know lots have tried.
I'm not really going after you man, just indirectly saying you don't really need to look for shit to do to these fuckers, they find dumb shit to break, blow up, bend and leak all on their own.
 
LOL - just read a page back and now understand why this topic came up.

All I can say is that I've been running the 3.6L Pentastar since it came out in 2012 on multiple Jeeps. Still have it on my big Gladiator and not as big Gladiator. To this day, I have never personally blown a head gasket and never seen or heard of anyone personally who has either. I have had 2 heads replaced on my 2012 and both under warranty but both were defects from the factory and neither had issues with heat. Blowing oil past the rings is another issue I've personally had but that was caused by running a CAI - really dumb mistake.

Of course, anyone who knows me and or Cindy for that matter knows that neither one of us are hard on our Jeeps and or known for driving fast on or off road so, there's that :)
 
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Cagle said:
I basically installed this because I don't like my temps to run high. My ride is heavy and I put the hammer down. I'm not in the right lane lollygaggin. For a few bucks
It gives me peace of mind.
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How does starting the fan earlier (at 195 degrees) help keep the engine cooler while it is under continuous load? Isn't the amount of cooling the same?
 
Mike Pierson said:
Yeah, the aluminum ones are bullshit, should never have been added to a rubicon. I have the Reids and they are awesome, despite the orange. However, any of the steels would be fine and significantly better than the oem.
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kevman65 said:
I did the Synergy knuckles not too long ago.

Easy install, everything lined up perfectly and the steering is still a lot tighter than it was new.

If you live anywhere that you have corrosion, be prepared to replace other parts.
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jeeeep said:
I installed Synergy for the similar reason, BJ not broken but I noticed wear signs on the OEM that I don't see in steel knuckles and the corrosion was bullshit.

I like the Synergy because they are fully coated them, time tell if the hubs corrode but the coating on the knuckles is supposed to prevent that.
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Thanks for the input guys, I ended up ordering the Currie RockJock brand since they were $100 cheaper than the Reid racing and Summit retails them but not the Synergy knuckles.

I had some summit bucks I needed to use by the end of the month.

I didn’t catch the warning from RockJock that their knuckles were designed for their steering components until after my order went in. They say aftermarket steering may or may not work. I guess I’ll be the guinney pig to find out if the Synergy steering and drag link flip will work with the RockJock knuckles. Wish me luck.
 
Cousin Clyde said:
Did you really do the windshield yourself?!
I am considering it next time.

Safelite charges so much, and they messed it up so bad that it squealed on the highway. I had to bring it back and have them redo it.

In their defense, it does not look like a fun job…
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No I had it done at a mom n pop shop here for less than half of what safelite was charging lol
 
CalSgt said:
Thanks for the input guys, I ended up ordering the Currie RockJock brand since they were $100 cheaper than the Reid racing and Summit retails them but not the Synergy knuckles.

I had some summit bucks I needed to use by the end of the month.

I didn’t catch the warning from RockJock that their knuckles were designed for their steering components until after my order went in. They say aftermarket steering may or may not work. I guess I’ll be the guinney pig to find out if the Synergy steering and drag link flip will work with the RockJock knuckles. Wish me luck.
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Well I can officially confirm the RockJock Knuckles did not work for me…. A combination of my Synergy steering and steersmarts track bar relocation bracket would have never cleared with the Currie high steer stuff. The Currie trackbar/steering stabilizer bracket is tucked tighter to the axle and the Currie tie rod has a different bend on the passenger side to gain clearance.

The knuckles seemed like quality product but I’m not in the mood to spend another $1200 to switch out my current steering and trackbar.

I’ll be returning to Summit in the AM and ordering the Reid Racing knuckles
 
CalSgt said:
Well I can officially confirm the RockJock Knuckles did not work for me…. A combination of my Synergy steering and steersmarts track bar relocation bracket would have never cleared with the Currie high steer stuff. The Currie trackbar/steering stabilizer bracket is tucked tighter to the axle and the Currie tie rod has a different bend on the passenger side to gain clearance.

The knuckles seemed like quality product but I’m not in the mood to spend another $1200 to switch out my current steering and trackbar.

I’ll be returning to Summit in the AM and ordering the Reid Racing knuckles
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Well that bites, wouldn’t have thought they were much different than stock aside from the material. Hopefully the Reids will work better. If you want me to do some measurements or take pics before you order, let me know.
 
Mike Pierson said:
Well that bites, wouldn’t have thought they were much different than stock aside from the material. Hopefully the Reids will work better. If you want me to do some measurements or take pics before you order, let me know.
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Thanks, I should be able to figure it all out.

The Currie stuff moves the tie rod and drag link up 2+ inches from stock, that’s what caused my fitment issues.
 
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