2012 exhaust loop options

noroad

New member
Ok so it just needs to go or be replaced for the main reason of hitting my new contol long arms, my question is who has done it and what was your change method along with the out come of that action. I was thinking the rough country EXHAUST LOOP RELOCATION pipe or just a stright piple instead. help me out guys!
 

SoCalDozer

New member
Ok so it just needs to go or be replaced for the main reason of hitting my new contol long arms, my question is who has done it and what was your change method along with the out come of that action. I was thinking the rough country EXHAUST LOOP RELOCATION pipe or just a stright piple instead. help me out guys!

I wouldnt just get rid of it, the engine is tuned to have it there so performance might suffer slightly. relocate it if possible.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
The loop exists for a reason, to help the even and equal flow of exhaust. You would be better served relocating it than to remove it.
 

JKWrang

New member
The loop exists for a reason, to help the even and equal flow of exhaust. You would be better served relocating it than to remove it.


That's interesting... for years car/truck enthusiasts are taught the mantra that a straighter and free-er flowing exhaust is better and now we have this crazy loop which is beneficial, though the natural reaction is to look at it and ask WHY?!

Guess we all keep learning!
 

noroad

New member
The loop exists for a reason, to help the even and equal flow of exhaust. You would be better served relocating it than to remove it.

so would you suggest the rough country relocation one or is there a better way( as in having a shop just cut and reuse the OEM one)?
 
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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
so would you suggest the rough country relocation one or is there a better way?

I haven't installed one so I can't say for sure but, I would imagine that would be a better option to look into. That, or take your Jeep to an exhaust shop as I'm sure they would be able to assist you with solutions too.
 

GuillaumeC91

New member
Similar thread here: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=10521

Eddie is right. The exhaust loop or "trumpet design" was part of the performance overhaul of the 3.6L. Not saying a loop offers less restriction than a straight pipe, but equal lenght pipe on both sides is even more important.

Don't follow me, I'm lost too! O|||||||O
 
Eddie is right. The exhaust loop or "trumpet design" was part of the performance overhaul of the 3.6L. Not saying a loop offers less restriction than a straight pipe, but equal lenght pipe on both sides is even more important.

Additionally, bends aren't as bad as they used to be due to the advancements in bending techniques. Back in the day bends resulted in either folding of the inside of the bend or at least a restriction to displace the extra material. Now mandrel bending is used to keep the ID smooth and consistent. The result is a VERY free flowing exhaust even through bends. In fact, sometimes it it too free flowing and some restriction needs to be added for proper back pressure. Back-pressure is needed for torque applications while a more free flowing exhaust will yield better HP numbers for the same engine.
 

sfrubicon

New member
AFE just released a delete pipe that uses the stock y pipe or their high flow y pipe, I haven't used it but it would have been way easier than flipping it like we did to put the long arm on
 

rtguy1

New member
Talked to Mel about this at the expo. He seems to think its pretty much useless. Maybe loose 1-2 hp by eliminating it. YMMV
 

1yellowjk

New member
Be careful when removing it, you start to void warranties when you remove exhaust components before the Cat.

At least that's what our dealer told us and they are VERY aftermarket part friendly.
 
Talked to Mel about this at the expo. He seems to think its pretty much useless. Maybe loose 1-2 hp by eliminating it. YMMV

I have a hard time believing that any manufacturer would but so much engineering & design time, implementation effort, and material cost into something that is useless. Especially when I know that an immense amount effort is put into bringing a product to market as cheaply as possible. My opinion is if it didn't have a purpose it wouldn't be there. :twocents:
 
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JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
Be careful when removing it, you start to void warranties when you remove exhaust components before the Cat.

At least that's what our dealer told us and they are VERY aftermarket part friendly.

It's after the cat, not before. I have the aFe exhaust loop delete pipe on mine and you won't notice any difference hp wise. It's not like it's a Ferrari after all. :rolleyes2:

The equal length exhaust is to get a exhaust scavenging effect. That benefit is higher on a highly tuned motor, but at the base level of tune that our motors are at, it's negligible. If it's negatively impacting your suspension components, then it's definitely worth removing.
 
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GuillaumeC91

New member
Additionally, bends aren't as bad as they used to be due to the advancements in bending techniques. Back in the day bends resulted in either folding of the inside of the bend or at least a restriction to displace the extra material. Now mandrel bending is used to keep the ID smooth and consistent. The result is a VERY free flowing exhaust even through bends. In fact, sometimes it it too free flowing and some restriction needs to be added for proper back pressure. Back-pressure is needed for torque applications while a more free flowing exhaust will yield better HP numbers for the same engine.

Well said. That's sums it up nicely.

Don't follow me, I'm lost too! O|||||||O
 

sfrubicon

New member
I have a hard time believing that any manufacturer would but so much engineering & design time, implementation effort, and material cost into something that is useless. Especially when I know that an immense amount effort is put into bringing a product to market as cheaply as possible. My opinion is if it didn't have a purpose it wouldn't be there. :twocents:

What about the front 44 on the rubicon, god knows how much jeep spent on that and it's not a 44, I bet Dynatrac spent less developing the prorock 60.
 
What about the front 44 on the rubicon, god knows how much jeep spent on that and it's not a 44, I bet Dynatrac spent less developing the prorock 60.

This proves my point exactly... It's not a true D44 so it is more common to the higher production D30. This enabled change over on the line without retooling or jig swap. It also allows for common suspension components and set up on the line.

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GuillaumeC91

New member
This proves my point exactly... It's not a true D44 so it is more common to the higher production D30. This enabled change over on the line without retooling or jig swap. It also allows for common suspension components and set up on the line.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Wait... wait... wait... so the Rubicon is not a real D44? Here I was starting to feel sorry with my Sport but in reality if you really want to go hard you would need to upgrade the Rubicon diffs too?

Pppffff not that I would need to go that far, but suddenly makes me feel better about my little D30 lol

Don't follow me, I'm lost too! O|||||||O
 
Wait... wait... wait... so the Rubicon is not a real D44? Here I was starting to feel sorry with my Sport but in reality if you really want to go hard you would need to upgrade the Rubicon diffs too?

Pppffff not that I would need to go that far, but suddenly makes me feel better about my little D30 lol

Don't follow me, I'm lost too! O|||||||O

The pumpkin is a 44. The tubes and knuckles are 30 and unfortunately come with its weaknesses in this area. It's sort-of a hybrid.

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