Run on only front driveshaft??

ZuidJK

ZuidJK

New member
Soooooooo i broke the u-joint on my rear driveshaft and upon further inspection i found that i have pieces of my driveshaft yoke that have also broken off..I have ordered the yoke and u-joint but am stuck for the next 4 days without a jeep and was wondering if i remove my rear driveshaft am i safe to drive temporarily on just the front axle?? or will that cause more damage to t-case or front driveline. Any advice would be great.

i am on the factory transfer case and dynatrac pro rock 44 front axle 1310 coast driveshafts if that info matters.
 
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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Tight turns will feel funny and I wouldn't drive more than you need but, you can do it. I've done it more than once and way longer than I would have preferred and without ill effect.
 
jkjurny

jkjurny

Member
wayoflife said:
Tight turns will feel funny and I wouldn't drive more than you need but, you can do it. I've done it more than once and way longer than I would have preferred and without ill effect.
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Saw you do that in the Dusy Ershim video. If we had to do that besides removing either the driveshaft or the ring gears, did you do anything else, like a plug or something on the exposed parts?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
jkjurny said:
Saw you do that in the Dusy Ershim video. If we had to do that besides removing either the driveshaft or the ring gears, did you do anything else, like a plug or something on the exposed parts?
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At the time, we were still running a factory rear 44 with semi-float shafts. Needless to say, you can't pull them - you have to pull the ring gear to prevent binding. Nothing will be exposed and so there's nothing to plug BUT, you'll want to overfill your diff as there will no longer be a pump to get gear oil flowing and out to the axle bearings. If you don't do this, you will fry them.
 
jkjurny

jkjurny

Member
wayoflife said:
At the time, we were still running a factory rear 44 with semi-float shafts. Needless to say, you can't pull them - you have to pull the ring gear to prevent binding. Nothing will be exposed and so there's nothing to plug BUT, you'll want to overfill your diff as there will no longer be a pump to get gear oil flowing and out to the axle bearings. If you don't do this, you will fry them.
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Great to know. Hope to never do this trail fix, but at least if I do, then won't fry the axle bearings.
 
ZuidJK

ZuidJK

New member
wayoflife said:
Tight turns will feel funny and I wouldn't drive more than you need but, you can do it. I've done it more than once and way longer than I would have preferred and without ill effect.
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I am waiting on the parts but I am now wondering because of the extreme cold in Ontario could that cause excess wear on the u joints and maybe I should do 1350..??? The joint broke on the highway on a crazy cold day and I'm running 35s??
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
ZuidJK said:
I am waiting on the parts but I am now wondering because of the extreme cold in Ontario could that cause excess wear on the u joints and maybe I should do 1350..??? The joint broke on the highway on a crazy cold day and I'm running 35s??
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With 35's, you should be okay with a 1310 but in reality, it is a bit weaker than even the one u-joint that a factory front shaft has which is a 1330.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
wayoflife said:
With 35's, you should be okay with a 1310 but in reality, it is a bit weaker than even the one u-joint that a factory front shaft has which is a 1330.
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so in your opinion would you say that you should run a 1350 even if you dont plan on going over 35's just due to sheer strength? i know you and others usually say that for anything larger than a 35 you should do 1350 but 35 and smaller you should/can do 1310.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
cozdude said:
so in your opinion would you say that you should run a 1350 even if you dont plan on going over 35's just due to sheer strength? i know you and others usually say that for anything larger than a 35 you should do 1350 but 35 and smaller you should/can do 1310.
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Honestly, it's hard for me to say. If you were to have asked me that question 5-6 years ago, I would have said that a 1310 is plenty strong and would not have recommended a 1350 unless you were going to run a 37 or larger. Of course, over the years, this has been harder for me to say due to what I've seen. In a nutshell, I think for most people, a 1310 will suffice but then, for others who play really hard, they might want to consider a 1350 even if they are just running 35's. It's just not as cut and dry as it used to be for me.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
wayoflife said:
Honestly, it's hard for me to say. If you were to have asked me that question 5-6 years ago, I would have said that a 1310 is plenty strong and would not have recommended a 1350 unless you were going to run a 37 or larger. Of course, over the years, this has been harder for me to say due to what I've seen. In a nutshell, I think for most people, a 1310 will suffice but then, for others who play really hard, they might want to consider a 1350 even if they are just running 35's. It's just not as cut and dry as it used to be for me.
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understandable. i will be getting a 1350 regardless cause i want to eventually get 37's but i figured i would ask anyway. thanks eddie! :thumb:
 
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