"spot the mods"

Chairokey · Jul 30, 2012

Alright let's play a game called spot the mods. I don't have a ton of money and I found a picture of a jeep that I think looks realistic. If you would be so kind, try and guess the work it has done. Of course only what's visible. Lift, wheel/tire size and then supporting mods I might need.

I'm thinking 35's on 17's (almost look like 16's) with 3"?

Edit: let me clarify, I'd like to start working towards a build like this one

wayoflife · Jul 30, 2012

is it safe to assume you were completely stock before your mods?

EDIT: i just re-read your post and see this is not your jeep

StrizzyChris · Jul 30, 2012

Chairokey said:
Lift, wheel/tire size and then supporting mods I might need.

I'm thinking 35's on 17's (almost look like 16's) with 3"?

Do you already have a jeep or just like this one? Is yours a two door also?(plays a roll in your "need" to upgrade in drivetrain and lift height)

I see a hood mount highlift/axe mount, Rugged ridge stubby bumper(non-winch mount), windshielf mount offf road lighting, factory mirror relocation bracket, jeep emblem painted black, and the previously mentioned wheels and tires.

Chairokey · Jul 30, 2012

Haha yeah sorry. I have a stock 2012 2 door sport right now.

So you think I guessed the lift and wheels/tires pretty accurately?

StrizzyChris · Jul 30, 2012

I would say your about right. the tires are absolutely no more than 35's and no larger than 16" wheels. To be honest they look like an agressive 33" to me. The lift would have to be 2.5" to clear 35's with no rubbing(while keeping everything else stock) and doesnt look more than 3".

What is your goal? Are you going to be wheeling this hard? Just want to clear 35's so you can have the look and near stock function(in suspension)? there are some easy puck lift systems that can do this for you and you wont need to replace anything of your driveline. If you go wheeling a lot or hit harder trails then you will want to really think about ddurability and quality of parts.

ichthus · Jul 30, 2012

That could even be a 2 1/2" leveling lift meant for an unlimited. I feel like there's more height up front than I'd expect...could just be the angle it's photographed from. Wheels are 15 or 16", I would also expect those to be 33-35" tires.

Cheapest way to build that would be a take-off Rubicon Unlimited shock-spring set, black steel wheels or maybe some 15" alloys (Pro-Comp has some that will clear the caliper, from what I hear).

Limiting yourself to 33" tires for now will greatly increase the lifespan of your axles, and Duratracs can give an aggressive look while keeping the price down. 12.5" wide should give the width you're seeing.

By the time you wear out the 33's you will have had the time to either reinforce your axles with gussets and sleeves, or replace them (depending on where build budget goes)

Chairokey · Jul 30, 2012

Thanks for the input guys

I don't do very hard wheeling. Theres not much that west Texas has to offer sadly. There isn't much flexing if any at all. It's more navigating old rutted out dirt trails and some steep climbing here and there. I'm really looking for a more aggressive look along with a few more inches of ground clearance.

I actually like this style of rims and have found some 17's which I'd like to have so I can comfortably fit my calipers. They are only 8 inches wide.

StrizzyChris · Jul 31, 2012

Most tires in the 32-35" range are no wider than 12.5 and have recommended wheel mounting range of 8-10" anyway so u should be just fine with those. They will hold a bead better too!

StrizzyChris · Jul 31, 2012

Oh, and what backspacing are ur wheels? You may now even need the mentioned wheel spacers if ur backspacing is small enough and ur tires arent too wide

"spot the mods"

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