ProRock 44 vs G2 60

mackey

mackey

Member
Know the old saying, "you get what you pay for.". So with that, which would be a better upgrade, Dynatrac's Pro Rock 44 with all the bells and whistles, or G2's 60? I want to run BFG Krawler 39 x 13.5 x 17. Also the Toyo Open Country 37, is almost the same weight as the 39 Krawler. Which would cause my stress on the axles? Thanks for the input.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
mackey said:
Know the old saying, "you get what you pay for.". So with that, which would be a better upgrade, Dynatrac's Pro Rock 44 with all the bells and whistles, or G2's 60?
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if it were me, i would get the prorock 44 over the G2 60 or more specifically, a hybrid 44/60. if you're unfamilar with what that is, it's a prorock 44 diff and tubes but with 60 ends. this is what our vengeance build has and what off road evolution and nitto ran with their koh competition 40's on the ultimate adventure.

I want to run BFG Krawler 39 x 13.5 x 17. Also the Toyo Open Country 37, is almost the same weight as the 39 Krawler. Which would cause my stress on the axles? Thanks for the input.
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tire weight will have little effect on either axle. if anything, it's your rear 44 that you'll need to start worrying about and not because of their weight but rather, their size. hard wheeling will cause your flanges to bend and eventually, the tubes as well.
 
mackey

mackey

Member
Hybrid 44/60. Did not even know it existed. Lol. Does it cost a lot less than a regular 60? I would love to upgrade my axles so I could run 39s or. 40s. I know I will not be able to afford Dynatrac 60s.

If I ever win the lotto, when interviewed, instead of saying I'm going to Disneyland, I'd say I'm going to Off Road Evolution. Lol
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
mackey said:
Hybrid 44/60. Did not even know it existed. Lol. Does it cost a lot less than a regular 60? I would love to upgrade my axles so I could run 39s or. 40s. I know I will not be able to afford Dynatrac 60s.

If I ever win the lotto, when interviewed, instead of saying I'm going to Disneyland, I'd say I'm going to Off Road Evolution. Lol
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LOL!! the two are close enough that you can do both.

yes, the 44/60 is a bit cheaper. as mentioned, to run 40's, you really should be thinking about your rear axle as well. trust me, i've tried doing it with a factory 44 and it just wasn't up to the task.
 
Serg5000

Serg5000

New member
wayoflife said:
LOL!! the two are close enough that you can do both.

yes, the 44/60 is a bit cheaper. as mentioned, to run 40's, you really should be thinking about your rear axle as well. trust me, i've tried doing it with a factory 44 and it just wasn't up to the task.
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Isn't that what you broke on the Dusy Eddie? The rear ring gear.
I have seen the video..........oh say 30 times. Lol. Fricking love that video.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Serg5000 said:
Isn't that what you broke on the Dusy Eddie? The rear ring gear.
I have seen the video..........oh say 30 times. Lol. Fricking love that video.
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yep, that would be what we broke but, in all fairness, we knew it would happen sooner than later. we did it more for a test than anything and, for us, we got about 2 months of hard play out of it. if you want to keep your factory rear 44 and run big tires, i would highly recommend that you stick with 5.13 gears. 5.38's would be a better ratio for sure but, it will be your weak point.
 
mackey

mackey

Member
So would everything still work together properly if I started off doing the. 44/60 in the front and saved for the rear? I would keep my current 5:13s
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
mackey said:
So would everything still work together properly if I started off doing the. 44/60 in the front and saved for the rear? I would keep my current 5:13s
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yes, and if you keep the 5.13's, you can probably get it to last for a while too.
 
Serg5000

Serg5000

New member
wayoflife said:
yep, that would be what we broke but, in all fairness, we knew it would happen sooner than later. we did it more for a test than anything and, for us, we got about 2 months of hard play out of it. if you want to keep your factory rear 44 and run big tires, i would highly recommend that you stick with 5.13 gears. 5.38's would be a better ratio for sure but, it will be your weak point.
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I plan on sticking with 5:13's. No need for more. We don't go crazy doing any real hard wheeling yet. I understand the limits of one's equipment. No need to be cool and break not only the equipment, but the bank as well. I figure as long as I can do trails like the Rubicon I'm good to go.
 
Jkzinger

Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
yep, that would be what we broke but, in all fairness, we knew it would happen sooner than later. we did it more for a test than anything and, for us, we got about 2 months of hard play out of it. if you want to keep your factory rear 44 and run big tires, i would highly recommend that you stick with 5.13 gears. 5.38's would be a better ratio for sure but, it will be your weak point.
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What does a person do if you blow up your rear gear set on the trail! Since there is no unit bearing can you just remove the broken ring or pinion and wheel out in FWD?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Jkzinger said:
What does a person do if you blow up your rear gear set on the trail! Since there is no unit bearing can you just remove the broken ring or pinion and wheel out in FWD?
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you need to pull the ring gear. if you don't, it will continue to bind and do all kinds of other damage. problem is, you also need to over fill your axle with gear oil on assembly. failure to do so will result in fried out axle bearings or worse. it's never a good thing and, why i try my hardest to keep breaks outside of the axle by running a lower but strong gear ratio or sticking with u-joints as opposed to rcv's.
 
mackey

mackey

Member
How does the U-joints help, vs having the RCV's? Or is it the u-joints will break before the gears do?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
mackey said:
How does the U-joints help, vs having the RCV's? Or is it the u-joints will break before the gears do?
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rcv's have stupid strong joints, way stronger than the shafts. being that everything can and will break, i would rather have a u-joint blow than have a shaft snap deep inside an axle tube (it happens). sure, the rcv's come with a good warranty but, a lot of good that's gonna do you on the trail and really, most every chromoly shaft sold today comes with a good warranty as well. only difference is that one is a lot easier to work with.
 
mackey

mackey

Member
You need to start a Jeep Basics 101 class at a nearby Jr. College. You could be "Professor Eddie" and then I could just say, "I'm going to school" and learn about everything with the Jeep. Lol. Thanks for the help.
 
mackey

mackey

Member
Ok final question before bedtime. As discussed with you, I am looking into upgrading axles. For about the same price, I could get the Double throw down, chromoly axle shafts, sleeve and gusset, exhaust and intake and the PSC ram. What would you do. Axles, or all the others. I soooooo need to win the lotto.
 
Jkzinger

Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
wayoflife said:
you need to pull the ring gear. if you don't, it will continue to bind and do all kinds of other damage. problem is, you also need to over fill your axle with gear oil on assembly. failure to do so will result in fried out axle bearings or worse. it's never a good thing and, why i try my hardest to keep breaks outside of the axle by running a lower but strong gear ratio or sticking with u-joints as opposed to rcv's.
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Thanks for the info Eddie! I am running a 44 with RCV's and 5.38s and moving to Nitto 37s..... tick tock!
 
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