Pinion nut
- Thread starter robx251
- Start date
David1tontj
New member
Did your kit come with a new nut? The lock nuts can get kinda worn out if you take it on off a bunch.
Also- are you setting it to the correct torque? There are several torques to deal with while doing a ring and pinion and perhaps you read the wrong one?
Also might try brake cleaner on the pinion an nut to make sure there is no grease interfering with the loctite.
My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
robx251
Caught the Bug
It is the original nut and I have alloy USA gears. I have had that not on and off a fair amount though since I had those issues with yukons I had at first. This is the third set of 4.88 and a drive shaft change. Could it just be over used?
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David1tontj
New member
Absolutely.
I would put a new lock nut onto a clean pinion with red loctite.
My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
jeeeep
Hooked
x2 it's recommended to use a new nut each time.
now the rear pinion poses an issue since the crush sleeve has to be torqued correctly.
When I took mine off I marked the starting point and counted the rotations required to remove it.
Torque settings have a pretty large range depending on the crush sleeve - there is a rotational torque as well but I couldn't tell you how that works
now the rear pinion poses an issue since the crush sleeve has to be torqued correctly.
When I took mine off I marked the starting point and counted the rotations required to remove it.
Torque settings have a pretty large range depending on the crush sleeve - there is a rotational torque as well but I couldn't tell you how that works
If you use a new nut, you are more than likely going to crush the crush sleeve more and that will lead to premature failure of your pinion bearings. You can mark and count the rotations needed to remove a pinion nut but ONLY IF you are reusing the same yoke or flange. If you install a new yoke or flange, it will not match up again. Unfortunately, unless you have an expensive inch pound torque wrench that can measure down to 5 inches or less to set things up properly, the best you can do is take a best guess and use some red loc-tite.
mattamd_xp
New member
Inch pound torque wrenches don't have to be expensive. The beam style is just as accurate as the dial type, just way less expensive. Make sure the beam points at 0 and go from there to measure rotational torque.
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TW-1-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000NVCI1U
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TW-1-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000NVCI1U
olram30
Not That Kind of Engineer
Huh, I never tried gears and always thought you needed a dial one. But I could see this working. Setting backlash doesn't worry me, it's getting the preload on the pinion. That crush sleeve is weird
mattamd_xp
New member
You could always use solid spacers and shims instead.
http://www.ratechmfg.com/Solid Pinion Spacers.htm
http://www.ratechmfg.com/Solid Pinion Spacers.htm
MI jeepskate
New member
Mine backed off and hit the locker carrier, we had the installer re tighten it and ill have to see what happens i guess. in my case everything that was taken off was replaced with new parts. id definitly get a new nut on there though because both yukon and eaton told me if damage occurred and it was an old nut the warranty would be voided