Finally will need a new front driveshaft:(

JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
Changed oil on the jeep yesterday and noticed grease slung up on the floor pan from the front driveshaft CV joint. I knew it was only a matter of time before I was gonna have to replace it since running 3.5" of lift and 35s.

I'll ask the question now that the time has come to replace it...1310 or 1350? I don't wheel often or hard when I do. Easy trails, some mild rock crawling, nothing high speed or enough to catch any air. The only driveline upgrades I plan on doing in the future when the Jeep is paid off are maybe a PR44 and lockers. Granted I will be wheeling it harder and more often when it is retired as my DD.

For the price difference, can I get by with a 1310? If I go with a 1310 or 1350, will they bolt up directly to a PR44? Honestly, it might be 5 or 6 years before I upgrade to a PR44 and 37s.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
i agree on getting the 1350. it will be great for a long time on the 35's and when you do go 37's and pr44 it will still be strong enough for them as well.
 
Notajerryskid

Notajerryskid

-
I went with the 1310 due to the fact I would rather change a joint than change a ring gear or ???? When I move up to a 60/80 combo with 40's I'll go with the 1350's. :twocents:
 
JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
Notajerryskid said:
I went with the 1310 due to the fact I would rather change a joint than change a ring gear or ???? When I move up to a 60/80 combo with 40's I'll go with the 1350's. :twocents:
Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinking. Plus having a 2 year old and one on the way in October, the $100 difference in price is a lot to me right now. I say the PR44 and 37s are in my future, but chances are it won't happen, not sure at this point. I figure when that time comes, I can sell the 1310 to help fund the 1350.
 
Notajerryskid

Notajerryskid

-
JeepKeeper said:
That's what I'm thinking. Plus having a 2 year old and one on the way in October, the $100 difference in price is a lot to me right now. I say the PR44 and 37s are in my future, but chances are it won't happen, not sure at this point. I figure when that time comes, I can sell the 1310 to help fund the 1350.
Click to expand...

I run 37's on 44's right now. the 1310's will hold up just fine. Go with the solid Spencer joints. AdamsDrive shaft has them for a good price on amazon.
 
JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
Notajerryskid said:
I run 37's on 44's right now. the 1310's will hold up just fine. Go with the solid Spencer joints. AdamsDrive shaft has them for a good price on amazon.
Click to expand...

You mean Spicer joints? I'm considering a JE Reel from Northridge4X4 due to the savings with the Wayalife discount code.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
I would do 1350's. I broke my 1310 the first time out. Had to have it completely rebuilt and it would have been a lot cheaper to just go 1350 from the get go. As a friend says, "it's expensive to be cheap."
 
JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
OverlanderJK said:
I would do 1350's. I broke my 1310 the first time out. Had to have it completely rebuilt and it would have been a lot cheaper to just go 1350 from the get go. As a friend says, "it's expensive to be cheap."
Click to expand...

Can I ask how you broke the 1310?
 
JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
MTG said:
He drives by the motto: When in doubt, throttle out! :yup:
Click to expand...

I was waiting for an answer along those lines. I know piginajeep broke both 1310s on ' JKX, but c'mon, coming down off the rear bumper with the wheels spinning, something was gonna break. Better the u-joints/shafts than something worse
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
JeepKeeper said:
I was waiting for an answer along those lines. I know piginajeep broke both 1310s on ' JKX, but c'mon, coming down off the rear bumper with the wheels spinning, something was gonna break. Better the u-joints/shafts than something worse
Click to expand...

I was climbing a ledge and did a little bump and it went boom.

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1401319698.982168.jpg
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1401319720.470668.jpg
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1401319735.517028.jpg
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1401319753.757038.jpg
 
JayKay

JayKay

Caught the Bug
Notajerryskid said:
That yoke on the T case would have broke even if it was a 1350. Thats driving it like you rented it with insurance. :dont_tell:

also. I would have been glad that the joint gave out and not a axle or diff.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking, can't be that much difference in the yoke as far as thickness and amount of material between the 1310 and 1350. Even though the u-joint is larger on the 1350, the yoke can't be that much stronger. Could be wrong :idontknow:
 
JKFlyer

JKFlyer

New member
I just ordered a new front driveshaft. I am same as you...don't wheel often. My shop ...knowing me...highly recommended I get the Adams 1310 w Spicer....all American made. I think 1350 was another 150-175. I'm in 37s w 2.5 lift on jku. Its going on this weekend. If I wheeled hard I would have gone 1350

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom