Finally will need a new front driveshaft:(

[Notajerryskid]

Think it was a bad yoke?

Yes. I would say bad cast.

 

[StrizzyChris]

He actually didn't hit it very hard. I was surprised it blew.

That's what she said :brows:

i agree on getting the 1350. it will be great for a long time on the 35's and when you do go 37's and pr44 it will still be strong enough for them as well.

Except for I doubt it'll work due to the housing and you'll probably need a different length DS with that upgrade

 

[Notajerryskid]

Except for I doubt it'll work due to the housing and you'll probably need a different length DS with that upgrade

The 30,44 and pro rock 44 are all the same from the pinion to the transfer case. Same drive shaft.


I got my front and rear from Adams for 850.00.

 

[JayKay]

My thoughts are as I said in the OP, I don't wheel often or hard. We have nothing here in MO that even compares to the Rubicon or most of the other trails that everyone runs out West. To be honest, I could probably beat pretty hard on my D30 with gussets and chromo shafts without any issues around here. I hate to answer my own question, but I feel that the 1310 will hold up for me. So long as it's a quality shaft. I think if I feel I should upgrade from the 1310 to a 1350, I wouldn't have any trouble selling it, especially since there are numerous JKs around town that the local dealer has sold with at least 3.5" of lift already installed when they leave the showroom. Most of the people who were suckered into buying them know nothing about the front driveline issues down the road. Hell, the dealership doesn't even calibrate them before selling them.

 

[MTG]

:dont_tell: I've been running a 1310 front DS for 33,000+ miles at the local mall and I am just now replacing a u-joint. Not because it failed, but because it was squeaky on my last run. I haven't dug into yet to see if there are other issues yet, but it didn't spontaneously explode when I went from 35s to 37s either. :shock:

 

[MTG]

That's what she said :brows:



Except for I doubt it'll work due to the housing and you'll probably need a different length DS with that upgrade

The 30,44 and pro rock 44 are all the same from the pinion to the transfer case. Same drive shaft.


I got my front and rear from Adams for 850.00.

And you could always have it cut down in length if you need to. :thumb:

 

[StrizzyChris]

:dont_tell: I've been running a 1310 front DS for 33,000+ miles at the local mall and I am just now replacing a u-joint. Not because it failed, but because it was squeaky on my last run. I haven't dug into yet to see if there are other issues yet, but it didn't spontaneously explode when I went from 35s to 37s either. :shock:

LIAR!!!! :stick hiting:

 

[BadApple]

You mean Spicer joints? I'm considering a JE Reel from Northridge4X4 due to the savings with the Wayalife discount code.

This is what i did!... But i did it when it was still a 10% discount.

 

[noroad]

I run adams 1310s with the upgraded joints and i wheel pretty good(37s)! also keep some spare u joint in the jeep( i can fix that over a R&P)

 

[JayKay]

I run adams 1310s with the upgraded joints and i wheel pretty good(37s)! also keep some spare u joint in the jeep( i can fix that over a R&P)

I'll probably go this route. Sucks being on a budget, but as I said before, $100 is $100. I too would rather fix a broken u-joint than an exploded differential.

 

[Notajerryskid]

:dont_tell: I've been running a 1310 front DS for 33,000+ miles at the local mall and I am just now replacing a u-joint. Not because it failed, but because it was squeaky on my last run. I haven't dug into yet to see if there are other issues yet, but it didn't spontaneously explode when I went from 35s to 37s either. :shock:

Yes but you don't count. You have a incomplete lift kit.

 

[JayKay]

Just checked northridge4x4, right at $200 difference between the 1310 and 1350 JE Reel. The budget tells me to go with the 1310, I'm sure I'll regret it later, but I'll worry about it then.