Need steering diagnosis help

Buster3479

Member
I'm fairly certain something is wrong with Beast, and I've picked up a rental for the week yesterday until I can diagnose it and order parts.

2012 JKU
3.5" lift

Front end:
Stock steering gear box
PR 44
Dynatrac Balljoints
RCV shafts
Eaton E-locker with 4.56
Reid Knuckles
Synergy Tie Rod, Trackbar, Draglink
Synergy HD weld on TB bracket
JKS quickers
Fox ATS SS
315/70/17 Duratracs on Pintlers

This started last Saturday. We returned the weekend before from the Drummond Island Jamboree where we spent 3 days off road, lots of locker use. On the way home from Drummond, my rear brakes were engaging the squealers, and full of debris. I spent a lot of time in the swamp in Turtle Ridge, and cleaned out the pads and calipers on the road before driving the 10 hours home. Last Saturday I decided to change the rear brake pads (they were worn badly), followed Eddie's write up, thanks for that, and change the Fr & Re Diff oil (we spent a lot of time in the water on Drummond). I also ground the steering stops 3 weeks before Drummond Island to gain as much steering as possible, and I now believe I went too far and don't always hit the stops on the knuckles. I plan on adding some weld to rectify as this could damage the steering gear box.

To change the Dynatrac's diff oil, I rotated the tie rod and draglink way up and down to get the cover off (clear the air ratchet) and did a normal change. Lots of brake cleaner, no issues on inspection, new RTV, new oil (seriously Lubelocker, if you read this, I'll pay handsomely for a dozen gaskets for the PR 44 front). After reassembly, and new brakes, we headed out for a Jeep club barbeque 84 miles away for the evening. I'm not sure if I ever rotated the tie rod and draglink back to centered positions, I usually do but was in a hurry. On the way there at one point just after leaving the house, I noticed a pull to the right for about a block and thought it might be a wind gust, but it stuck in my mind.

At the barbeque, we used the locker to climb up on some logs (teeter totters, logs with boards, all 4 at once) and disengaged it. I turned around in a cul-de-sac before heading for the highway at the end of the night. It was maybe a mile or two before the highway, and everything seemed normal.

I was having a hard time making the left turn onto the on ramp for the highway, Beast was fighting me. I'm not certain, but I think the ESP light was flashing. It was like I was trying to turn up against a stop with a spring on it 30 degrees to the left in the steering wheel. I couldn't avoid getting on the highway, so I stayed in the far right lane and got off on the next exit. When we got to the top of the off ramp, it was pitch black and there was nowhere to pull over so I made the first right. Beast wouldn't turn and the ESP light was definitely flashing this time. I had to swing way wide, into and across the other lane, on the shoulder, and then was able to make the gradual turn onto the cross road. At this point I was very worried, 80 miles from home, and it was dark. I drove to the first parking lot, it felt like the steering was stiff (so far everything seems pretty much like the locker is on, or the steering gear is failing, sadly they are both about the same in symptoms). I tried to turn left off the road into the first convenience store, and Beast wouldn't turn. I could turn the wheel approximately 30 degrees, and it felt like I was hitting a hard stop. The ESP light was going off, throttle cut back, and it wouldn't turn. Just as I was about to stop where I was, I heard a super loud POP (metal popping sound) from the front end, I think driver's side, not sure, and all of my steering came back completely free.


My wife and I pulled into the lot, and I got out and crawled under Beast. I cycled the steering a bunch of times, kept looking for something broken. I noticed paint missing from the back of the tie rod, and front of the SS, but I think that happened under extreme articulation wheeling on Drummond. After a lot of time looking underneath, cycling steering, and finding nothing wrong I took Beast for a test drive in the local neighborhood there. Everything was acting normal. I proceeded to white knuckle drive the whole way home on back roads no faster than 55mph without incident.

The next morning, I drove into work early, worked a half a day, and came home. I tore down the diff cover to inspect the Eaton E-locker. I noticed the paint missing off the SS and tie rod again, it's a fairly substantial amount of paint, but there was no way on a level road for them to hit. I plan on relocating the SS so it can never hit, and removed it for the time being. I spun the locker, engaged and disengaged, cleaned everything as much as it's ever been, and can't find any damage in the diff. Teeth look great, pins look great, carrier looks great. It doesn't look like the anti-rotation ring has moved either. One thing I did notice was some red RTV that ended up in the diff, some smaller chunks that might have broken off.

I've been driving Beast since, and every now and then after sweeping turns I'm certain I'm getting a pull to the right that I have to hold off left about 15 degrees in the steering wheel against resistance. After less than a block of holding off, the pull lets go, and I swerve left until I let up force. No steering stabilizer is installed at the moment. This is very much like the first symptom, but it hasn't locked up at all again

Something is definitely wrong, and I'm afraid to drive Beast. I'm a steering gear engineer for a living (commercial trucks), and know the danger involved in a future full disconnect. I rented a car last night for a week so that I'd have something safe to drive until I figure this out. Beast is our toy, but it's also our until now super dependable DD. I wouldn't have it any other way.

I have a couple of theories, and am trying to diagnose them. I'm open to any suggestions.

1) Steering gear dropped a ball, or suffered other internal damage
2) E-locker is momentarily engaging itself from time to time
3) Locker might have been stuck on that night, and now I'm experiencing something misaligned in the new rear brake pads 2 separate issues

I know what it sounds like when a ball drops out of a gear, it's a loud metallic pop. I also have read that when an E-locker is stuck on, and forcibly disengaged, you get a loud metallic pop. I'm super keyed up to this stuff now, and think there might be a slightly harder time turning right under power, and not under power when up on jack stands. I'm not certain if I'm now looking for something that isn't there.

I won't hesitate to drop the dough once I figure out what's wrong, but I can't afford to just throw money at the entire front end. If it turns out its the locker, I'll drop the $ into an ARB, a compressor, and never look back. I don't have that cash, but I'll find a way. If it's the steering gear box, I'll buy a new one, possibly even a PSC, and never look back. I can't afford to do both after a year of upgrades that were supposed to end with the Drummond trip.

Please help, I'll take any suggestions, and try any reasonable forms of diagnosis.

I plan on pulling the tires tomorrow with the axle on jack stands, and cycling steering with and without power assist. I may pull the RCV's leaving the stubs in, and drive around tomorrow without the front end connected to try and eliminate the locker. I'll also pull the rear wheels and visually inspect the new pads. I'm at a lost, and don't know anyone local that I can trust to take it to when I've exhausted options on my own. Thank you for reading this all the way through if you've gotten this far.
 
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GCM 2

New member
Oddly enough on the 2012 JK Experience when we were on Drummond Island, I began having the same "steering/pulling/braking in one direction feel". Turned out I had damaged a front wheel speed sensor when a branch was shoved into the tone ring area of the steering knuckle. I unplugged the wheel speed sensor on my driver's side for the long drive home to Scottsdale, AZ and replaced it once I was home. This might not be your issue, but try unplugging one of your front wheel speed sensors at the connection where it ties into the wiring harness near the frame rail. You will get lights on your dash, but if the jeep is drivable and the symptoms go away then that is a pretty good sign this is your issue. Also, if you have a Superchips Flashpaq tuner (or anything that can read DTC codes) check your codes being thrown. It will tell you if you have a wheel speed sensor tolerances that are off or bad.
 

JKbrick

Active Member
Oddly enough on the 2012 JK Experience when we were on Drummond Island, I began having the same "steering/pulling/braking in one direction feel". Turned out I had damaged a front wheel speed sensor when a branch was shoved into the tone ring area of the steering knuckle. I unplugged the wheel speed sensor on my driver's side for the long drive home to Scottsdale, AZ and replaced it once I was home. This might not be your issue, but try unplugging one of your front wheel speed sensors at the connection where it ties into the wiring harness near the frame rail. You will get lights on your dash, but if the jeep is drivable and the symptoms go away then that is a pretty good sign this is your issue. Also, if you have a Superchips Flashpaq tuner (or anything that can read DTC codes) check your codes being thrown. It will tell you if you have a wheel speed sensor tolerances that are off or bad.

Don't know if this is the same thing but we had an anti lock brake light on and I had to change the hub bearing assy and it finally shut off.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Oddly enough on the 2012 JK Experience when we were on Drummond Island, I began having the same "steering/pulling/braking in one direction feel". Turned out I had damaged a front wheel speed sensor when a branch was shoved into the tone ring area of the steering knuckle. I unplugged the wheel speed sensor on my driver's side for the long drive home to Scottsdale, AZ and replaced it once I was home. This might not be your issue, but try unplugging one of your front wheel speed sensors at the connection where it ties into the wiring harness near the frame rail. You will get lights on your dash, but if the jeep is drivable and the symptoms go away then that is a pretty good sign this is your issue. Also, if you have a Superchips Flashpaq tuner (or anything that can read DTC codes) check your codes being thrown. It will tell you if you have a wheel speed sensor tolerances that are off or bad.

A damaged or bad wheel speed sensor definitely sounds like a very real possibility here but unfortunately, I'm not sure you can just unplug one on a 2012 and make it work unless it's a manual transmission. Unlike 2007-11 JK's, unplugging a 2012-up speed sensor on an automatic will put your Jeep into limp mode.
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
A damaged or bad wheel speed sensor definitely sounds like a very real possibility here but unfortunately, I'm not sure you can just unplug one on a 2012 and make it work unless it's a manual transmission. Unlike 2007-11 JK's, unplugging a 2012-up speed sensor on an automatic will put your Jeep into limp mode.

Really? I severed a rear speed sensor wire and drove around like that for a while. Is unplugging it different?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Really? I severed a rear speed sensor wire and drove around like that for a while. Is unplugging it different?

No, that would have been about the same thing. Like I said, I wasn't sure about this but, it was my understanding based on us having tried to dyno Rubicat. Of course, now that I think about it, we pulled 2 speed sensors, not just one so, that may be the difference.
 

Buster3479

Member
I've driven it before without a front wheel speed sensor (broke one doing some work, and all the local parts shops were out) for a day. It drive's without ESP and ABS (auto). It was fun, dead of winter, ice on the road, and the first time I haven't had ABS in 10 years. I hadn't realized how much our driving styles have adjusted to having ABS as a culture. I didn't go into limp mode, but it was a few short drives, and only for a day. I'm not sure whether it will or not.

I'll try unplugging one and see what happens with the pull. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm not sure how it could be related to losing steering and getting that lout metallic pop the one time that it happened. Perhaps two separate issues and that was just the locker being stuck on?
 

Buster3479

Member
Thanks for the suggestions. I took apart the rear brakes again, and cleaned out both ESP sensors. The fronts were intact, and still dielectric greased from when I put them in a few months ago. One of the rear retaining clips was loose. I reseated and greased the tabs that the new pads ride on, and reassembled. It hasn't pulled since on subsequent test drives, but something still made me question what went on when the steering was locked, and I had that awful metallic pop.

After a bunch of other troubleshooting, I've determined that while my steering stops hit with Beast's weight on jack stands placed under the front axles, they don't with weight on wheels. Perplexing, but I plan on adding a little weld to each stop to rectify it. I think this stands out as something else to fix, but not root cause. I've also discovered my weld on SS mount brackets will hit the tie rod under full articulation one direction, another thing to fix, but not root cause.

I went out today on some loose gravel, and tested the locker. I'm 99 percent certain it was stuck on, or re-engaged itself after a few turns before getting on the highway now last weekend. The feedback in the steering wheel is exactly the same, the push and lock of steering, and it's worse at higher speeds (tested it today at moderate speeds out where nobody could get hurt). It's also not disengaging reliably at all, something I've noticed since installation. One of the times it didn't disengage today, I made a slow turn in reverse, and got that same awful metallic pop! AHA root cause, EUREKA!!!

I did some internet research today, and found it seems to be a common problem to not have Eaton E-lockers disengage reliably. Not exactly a high percentage from what I could gather, but enough that a few searches yielded hours of reading. Despite some problems I've found with ARB's in the front, it seems the much more reliable system. I plan on calling Eaton tomorrow to try and find out what they'll do, examine, warranty, repair, ect my front locker. I know that you need to unload it and make sweeping turns to disengage it, but even when I do that it's not disengaging reliably. I just don't trust it at this point with my and my wife's life buzzing down the highway.

I think my wife and I are going to pony up the money and drop in an ARB in the front, and if I can figure out how to mount it under the hood with my SPOD on the same side, an ARB twin to power it. It will be the last thing we can afford for Beast for the year after the Dynatrac and new front end. Any suggestions?
 
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