Driveline question

Jk909

New member
Hello everybody,
I recently installed a 3" lift on my 2dr jk. From my understanding I'm going to need to replace my drive shafts soon because of the increased angle. My question is will new stronger drive shafts be enough or do I need to to something to correct the angle?
 
Eventually yes.
The front will be a balance between caster/Pinion angle. If you already have arms, and caster set to around 4 degrees. You're good.
with the rear, you're going to want at min uppers to be able to rotate the housing up.
 

jeeeep

Hooked
Hello everybody,
I recently installed a 3" lift on my 2dr jk. From my understanding I'm going to need to replace my drive shafts soon because of the increased angle. My question is will new stronger drive shafts be enough or do I need to to something to correct the angle?

As mentioned, correct the angle 1st. How quickly your driveshaft(s) fails depends on your off-road use and correct angle, typically the front fails first.

An incorrect angle will cause failure quicker but more important, depending on the type of off-road wheeling you do a steep angle creates additional stress on the transfer case and could cause the case to crack.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Eventually yes.
The front will be a balance between caster/Pinion angle. If you already have arms, and caster set to around 4 degrees. You're good.
with the rear, you're going to want at min uppers to be able to rotate the housing up.

What he said for your front drive shaft. To clarify, there is no caster to address in the rear and with an aftermarket shaft, you must set it in line with your pinion using a set of adjustable rear upper arms.
 

Jk909

New member
Thanks for the advice guys. I know my kit came with octo cam washers for the front to correct the caster angle. So I from your experience I should be in good shape after getting adjustable control arms for the rear and new drive shafts? Is this something that I can pick up from off road evolution?
 

Panda

New member
Not to hijack this thread but I'm getting ready to do the same thing as jk909, my question is if you do rear uppers and a new rear driveshaft on a 2door is it better to get rear lower c/a's also to help keep the coil lined up?
 
Not to hijack this thread but I'm getting ready to do the same thing as jk909, my question is if you do rear uppers and a new rear driveshaft on a 2door is it better to get rear lower c/a's also to help keep the coil lined up?

Lowers allow centering of the axle in the wheel well. The perches will still be angled back w/ pinion angle correction. Best to just cut, relocate and re-weld the perches.

X2 Currie arms
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Not to hijack this thread but I'm getting ready to do the same thing as jk909, my question is if you do rear uppers and a new rear driveshaft on a 2door is it better to get rear lower c/a's also to help keep the coil lined up?

Another cheaper option instead of rear lower arms would be to get a set of JKS rear spring perches and rotate the perch on the axle. This will keep you springs straight the best
 

Panda

New member
Thanks for the info guys! sounds like in the long run I'll want to do both lca's & spring perches
 
PHP:

Thanks man. Should I have them installed professionally ?

Control arms are pretty easy to install with the jeep on the ground. The rear uppers can be tricky grabbing the flag nuts inside the frame.
All you need to do is position a jack under the pinion to hold where you want it. Remove one arm and adjust the new one to bolt up. Do the same with the other. Torque bolts/tighten jam nuts when you're happy. Fwiw the rear pinion should be inline to a couple degrees lower than the DS.
If you were to install lowers. You want the bumpstop to center on the pad at full bump. The length may be different jeep to jeep but generally 1/2" or so longer than stock should work. You would set those first, then move on to the uppers.
 
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Jk909

New member
Control arms are pretty easy to install with the jeep on the ground. The rear uppers can be tricky grabbing the flag nuts inside the frame.
All you need to do is position a jack under the pinion to hold where you want it. Remove one arm and adjust the new one to bolt up. Do the same with the other. Torque bolts/tighten jam nuts when you're happy. Fwiw the rear pinion should be inline to a couple degrees lower than the DS.
If you were to install lowers. You want the bumpstop to center on the pad at full bump. The length may be different jeep to jeep but generally 1/2" or so longer than stock should work. You would set those first, then move on to the uppers.

Perfect man thanks for the explanation.
 
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