Rear drive shaft

I am wonder if anyone knows how much further a rear driveshaft on a 2 door will go as far as length. I know I SHOULD get a new 1350 woods etc but that is not what I am asking here. I want to put on new arms that push the axle back 1" over stock and just wondered if I can get away with stock for a couple months before getting a new drive shaft. Anyone have any experience with this as I don't have the funds to do it all at the same time.

It won't reach.

And Tom woods are shit.

You do know that pushing your axle back an inch will cause your rear coils to bow excessively, right? You do know that even if you correct the bow with new lower spring perches, your coils will most likely make contact with your rear track bar, right? You do know that doing this is kind of silly being that you will see virtually ZERO performance gains, right?

Having said all that, Tom Woods shafts come with cheap Chinese u-joints that fail all the time.

wayoflife said:

You do know that pushing your axle back an inch will cause your rear coils to bow excessively, right? You do know that even if you correct the bow with new lower spring perches, your coils will most likely make contact with your rear track bar, right? You do know that doing this is kind of silly being that you will see virtually ZERO performance gains, right?

Having said all that, Tom Woods shafts come with cheap Chinese u-joints that fail all the time.

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Well being as that is the way Rock krawler makes them I kinda figure maybe they have that figured out. Not looking to gain anything performance at all just looking to gain clearance since with the stock arms and lifted the axle now sits farther forward and want it back where it started. Also was using woods as an example and didn't say that's the one I was after.

Ah2014jk said:

Well being as that is the way Rock krawler makes them I kinda figure maybe they have that figured out. Not looking to gain anything performance at all just looking to gain clearance since with the stock arms and lifted the axle now sits farther forward and want it back where it started. Also was using woods as an example and didn't say that's the one I was after.

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LOL!! Just because a manufacturer makes something doesn't mean they have anything figured out. At least, not in my experience.

The Rock Krawler "mid-arms" are nothing more than arms that are 1" too long. Most people find this to be a problem - NOT a benefit and the problems I just described I have personally seen with those exact arms. Just because you are lifted doesn't mean that your axle will have moved forward enough to warrant arms that are 1" too long. Your control arms are essentially the hypotenuse of a triangle and, while there will be a change in value, it won't be more than a fraction of an inch. You need to remember that your axle will still travel in an arc and at a full stuff with factory arms, your tires will still sit inside your fender perfectly - not so much the case if you push your axle back an entire inch. But hey, it's your Jeep and I'm just trying to help out with what I have seen.

Ah2014jk said:

Well being as that is the way Rock krawler makes them I kinda figure maybe they have that figured out. Not looking to gain anything performance at all just looking to gain clearance since with the stock arms and lifted the axle now sits farther forward and want it back where it started. Also was using woods as an example and didn't say that's the one I was after.

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How much does an axle move forward with a 3-4" lift? Moving your axle back 1" or more sounds like a great idea, but at full bump is where you're going to see issues with components rubbing. Did you install those corny correction wedges? Track bar, sway bar, sway bar links, shock mounts and other things get moved when you alter the natural arc of the factory axle. I'm sure you'll figure this out.
As far as the original question, I'd just get a rear shaft.

olram30 said:

As far as the original question, I'd just get a rear shaft.

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Yup. With 3"-4" on a 2-door, it's just a matter of time before the CV joints blow and demand a new shaft. Of course, new adjustable upper arms are needed for this as you will need to set your pinion angle.

wayoflife said:

You do know that pushing your axle back an inch will cause your rear coils to bow excessively, right? You do know that even if you correct the bow with new lower spring perches, your coils will most likely make contact with your rear track bar, right? You do know that doing this is kind of silly being that you will see virtually ZERO performance gains, right?

Click to expand...

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?25668-Rock-Krawler-rear-suspension-1-quot-quot-Stretch-quot

Ask me how I know.......

YESSSSSS I have been wanting to use that line for so long!!!! :wings: