RoadRageJKU
New member
has anyone used the crawler concepts skinny series bumpers? i have a kc hilites bumper now and finding i dont care for the approach angle
looking to change front bumper again.. better approach angle
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RoadRageJKU
New member
that pic isnt the best representation of what i mean lol.. but if you look you can see the white marks on the d-ring lugs.. when i pull up to a semi steep rock it hangs up pretty bad on the front..
that being said, i am still learning and maybe its MY approach that is the problem ?
Sh0rtBus
LOSER
Have to agree with Eddie here. Haven't run it myself, but it appears very similar to the Poison Spyder BFH series, which was originally touted as having the best approach angle on the market. LIkewise, the BFH rear was touted as having the best departure angle, and to that I can certainly testify, as I've been in several situations where other guys were hitting their rear bumpers on rocks, etc. during a descent and I had plenty of clearance. Not certain how the CC Skinny mounts, but if it's anything like the BFH series, you cut off about 2" of the frame and the included crash bar (I believe). I know on the BFH rear you cut off 2" and pretty much the entire rear crossmember, too. There's a little of the rear crossmember left after cutting, but not enough to supply any rigidity to the frame so most people cut it the rest of the way out and allow the rear bumper to act as the crossmember itself. I'd assume the CC Skinny series bumpers work the same way. :beer:
Honestly, I could never understand the whole BFH bumper thing. I mean, so long as you can get your TIRES on the obstacle like you should, that's all the approach angle you need. But then, I'm just a mall crawler and really, what would I know.
Don't me wrong but, maybe you should try angling into the rocks you're wanting to climb and putting your tires on them instead of ramming them head on with your bumper. You're tires might do a better job of climbing them. If the obstacle is tough enough that you're still scratching your d-rings, well, it must be a pretty tough obstacle and thank goodness that you have a bumper that can take the hit. Of course, that's just me.
seanb123
New member
I'm with you I'm not all for cutting frame which is why I don't have that bumper and have never felt I needed a better angle
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
Scraping your front bump isn't necessarily an indication that you need to get a new bumper. After all, its doing its job by protecting your front end. I'd keep it, unless its preventing you from climbing over obstacles you are comfortable climbing.
As for the Skinny series, please know that you have to cut off some of the crumple zones up front in order to install it.
Hope you didn't take what I was saying as if I were singling you out. I just saw the comment and blurted out what came to mind :crazyeyes:
I actually have more issue with this close to home in the dirt and mud than in the rocks. A little hill will get extremely rutted at the bottom from knuckle-heads spinning their tires like crazy trying to get up. The result ends up being a nose dragger on the face. This is especially the case on the several small creek crossings here local to me as my butt is often still in the air when I'm starting up the other side.
Still, I have the crash bar on and like it there. It is what protects my disconnect and is an early indication I could get high-centered and I might need to pedal it a bit to bump over the top. :yup:
OscarMike2.0
New member
If you want the absolute best approach angle check out the tnt guardian
NevadaZielmeister
Caught the Bug
I have a question as I a totally agree that driver ability, skill and wisdom come into play. However, aren't there some steps that might not allow for an "angle" approach? What other situations would a driver really benefit from a BFH type bumper? Besides the EVO 1/4 pounder, which other bumper do you like?
And why do you always sign off with "what would I know"? I get confused since you have a TON of knowledge. People would not be on here if you did not.
I see that you do have to remove some "crumple" zones, but am curious if those are just the 5 mph zones for the bumper itself and not the crumple zones contained further back in the frame? I see the wavy nature of the frame area where the front bumper mounts, but cannot imagine that, with the metal being so thin there, are the same crumple zones that all vehicles have to have.
For me, being an insurance guy, the bumpers on Wranglers are very interesting. They behave so differently than "normal" bumpers. The normal modern bumper is made up of a plastic cover, a foam absorber and reinforcement bar. Each one has a certain speed zone that allows its compromise. 0 (Scrape) the front cover, 0-5mph, the foam absorber, 5-15, reinforcement bar, 15+ frame components (engine mounts, kick up areas, etc.).
But with the Wrangler bumpers, its crumple front bumper mounts and then the frame components. Pretty unforgiving, but then, who buys a Wrangler thinking they are going to get a wreck tomorrow? Also, raising the vehicle helps when you as an occupant are in the raised vehicle striking an regular vehicle. You simple miss their centerline of mass and go onto much soft areas, which helps all parties, until things get extreme.
dwvninety
New member
Welcome to WAL
hhunter050
New member
You should see my front bumper
they will get hit HARD if you wheel at all
they will get hit HARD if you wheel at all
BDSJEEP
New member
I'll defer to you on all that other stuff :crazyeyes: :thinking: ...
...but I'd be willing to bet you would know ...sarcasm. :yup:
Don't get me wrong as I have nothing to say good or bad about your bumper but, in this photo, you are nosed up to the ledge at an angle just like you should be and to the point where your TIRE is making contact with the face of the ledge. Your bumper being out of the way of your tire was all you needed to give you the approach angle necessary to start this climb.
I have personally installed and run PUREJEEP, WARN, Shrockworks, ARB, EVO and multiple LoD bumpers and with the exception of the ARB and WARN which were full width bumpers, I really haven't seen or felt that I've ever been at a significant disadvantage with any of the other bumpers I've run. This isn't an opinion based on driver skill - it's one based on common sense. But of course, I'm a nobody who just drives to the mall and back with my grocery getter. With what I do with my rigs, I have no, none, ZERO idea what significant "benefits" one might have with a BFH type bumper other than how it looks. If anything, I'm not comfortable with the idea of cutting the frame in a way that would compromise or alter the crumple zones designed into them from the factory but, that's just me.
Just stating a fact. I would never pretend to know anything more than the next guy - all I can do is share what I have experienced. If anything I might have to say has value to you, that would be for you to decide.
The 5 MPH relief is offered through the "crush cans" that are a part of the factory inner bumper and is typically removed when installing an aftermarket bumper. The crumple zone on the frame rails is for an impact of much greater speeds. But, you can believe whatever it is you want to believe.
I agree. If you're never hitting you're bumper regardless of the make, you clearly not trying hard enough. :yup:
Arizona
New member
Well said! :thumb: