Jeep XJ Cherokee 4.0L Water Pump, Thermostat & Fan Clutch Replacement Write-Up

wayoflife

wayoflife

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Earlier in the year, our 1997 Jeep XJ Cherokee developed a coolant leak that was small enough to ignore for a while but over time, it grew to the point that I knew it needed to be addressed. Hoping that it was just a loose lower hose clamp or cracked hose, I started there but as luck would have it, everything was tight and the hose was in good enough condition to not be the source of the leak. Needless to say, the coolant was most likely oozing out of the water pump weep hole and that meant it was time for it to be replaced. Fortunately, a Jeep 4.0L water pump is a common part, can be found at just about any autoparts store and for cheap. And, since I was going to have to pull a lot other parts to get to it, I decided to use the opportunity to replace the thermostat and fan clutch at the same time too. If you're in need of replacing your XJ's water pump, this step by step write-up should be able to help you out.

What you will need
• Jeep XJ Cherokee 4.0L Water Pump & Gasket
• Jeep XJ Cherokee 4.0L Thermostat & Gasket
• Jeep XJ Cherokee 4.0L Fan Clutch
• 8, 13, 15mm Sockets & Wrenches
• 1/2" Wrench
• Ratchet
• Ratchet Extension
• Flathead Screwdriver
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Hammer
• Gasket Scraper
• Teflon Tape
• Bench Vice
• Wire Brush
• Emery Cloth
• Coolant
• Bucket
• Paper Towels

Shot of all the new parts I got.
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Here's a shot of the coolant leak I was seeing under my XJ.
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Instructions
1. Start off by disconnecting your air intake tube from the air box. To do this, simply lift up on the plastic clamp and pull back as shown in the photo below.
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2. Firmly grasp the PCV tube and wriggle it free from the port on the air box.
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3. Release the 3 clamps securing the lid of your air box.
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4. Remove the air filter and then remove the air box lid.
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5. Using a 13mm socket and ratchet extension, remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut securing the air box to the body of your Jeep.
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6. Remove the air box from your Jeep and set it aside.
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7. Using an 8mm socket, remove the 2 screws securing both your radiator overflow hose and electric fan to the front of your Jeep.
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8. Take the plug for your electric fan, slide the lock tab out and then separate the ends by squeezing on the release tab.
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9. Wriggle the radiator overflow hose off the radiator fill neck.
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10. Lift the electric fan up and out of your Jeep's engine compartment.
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11. Using an 8mm socket, remove the 2 screws securing the fan shroud to the front of your Jeep.
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12. Carefully lift the fan shroud up and out of your Jeep's engine compartment. You will have to work it around the mechanical fan and fan clutch and you'll want to take care not to bump into the fins of your radiator as you do this.
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13. Using a 15mm socket, loosen the bolt securing your idler pulling in place.
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14. Using a 15mm socket, loosen the serpentine belt adjuster as shown in this photo.
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15. If you no longer have a diagram of your serpentine belt on the fan shroud, take a moment to photograph it with your phone. You can use it as a reference when reinstalling it later.
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16. Remove your serpentine belt and examine it carefully. If it shows signs of cracking especially across the grain, you should plan on replacing it. If it's still in good shape, set it aside for now.
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17. Using a 15mm socket, remove the 2 bolts securing the front of your power steering pump bracket to the water pump housing.
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18. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt securing the power steering pump support brace to the engine block.
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19. Using a 13mm socket and ratchet extension, remove the 3 bolts securing the power steering pump to the intake manifold. You will need to rotate the pulley so that the 2 openings allow access to them.
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20. With the power steering pump free of the engine block, pull it aside and rest it on the fender well to give you more room to work with.
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21. Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the 2 screws securing the head light bezels to the front of your Jeep.
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22. Remove the bezels and set them aside.
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23. Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the 4 screws securing the plastic grill to the front of your Jeep.
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24. Remove the grill and set it aside.
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25. On the passenger side of your Jeep, use a phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws securing your indicator light in place.
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26. Place a bucket underneath your Jeep and open up the petcock valve to drain the radiator. This valve is located behind where your passenger side indicator light was.
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27. Allow your radiator to drain completely before proceeding.
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28. If your lower radiator hose is secured to the water pump with a hose clamp, use a flat head screw driver to loose up the clamp.
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29. Move your bucket underneath your water pump, carefully pry off the lower radiator hose and allow it to drain into the bucket.
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30. On your Jeep's thermostat housing, take a hold of the temperature sensor plug, slide the lock tab to the open position and unplug it by squeezing on the release tab and pulling it off.
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31. Use a flat head screw driver to loosen the hose clamp securing the heater hose to the thermostat housing and then pull it off.
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32. Use a flat head screw driver to loosen the hose clamp securing the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing and then pull it off.
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33. Use a flat head screw driver to loosen the hose clamp securing the heater hose to the tube extending off the water pump and then pull it off.
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34. Use a 13mm socket to remove the 2 bolts securing the thermostat housing to the engine block.
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35. Pry the thermostat housing off the engine block.
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36. Use a flathead screw driver to help pry off the thermostat from the engine block.
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37. Using a 13mm and a 1/2" wrench, remove the 4 nuts securing the mechanical fan and clutch to the pulley. You can use one of the wrenches to hold the pulley in place while using the other to remove the bolts as shown.
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38. Carefully remove the fan from the pulley studs being careful not to hit the radiator.
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39. Using a 13mm and a 1/2" wrench, remove the 4 bolts securing the water pump pulley. As before, you can use one of the wrenches to hold the pulley in place while using the other to remove the bolts as shown.
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40. Using a 13mm socket, remove the 3 bolts securing your water pump to the engine block.
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41. Using a hammer, give the back side of the water pump lower hose connector a tap to free it of its gasket bond and then allow the remaining coolant to drain as shown.
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42. Remove the water pump, place it in a bench vice and then, using a 19mm wrench, remove the heater hose tube.
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43. Stuff some paper towels into the thermostat and water pump openings on your engine block. Then, use a gasket scraper or razor blade to remove all the gasket material. Remove the paper towels when done.
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44. Use a wire brush to clean the threads of the water pump heater hose tube.
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45. While it may not be necessary, I applied some Teflon tape to the threads of the tube.
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46. Place your new water pump in a bench vice and then install the heater hose tube as shown.
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47. Place the provided gasket on the mating surface of your new water pump making sure that all the holes line up.
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48. Carefully install your water pump and gasket onto your Jeep's engine block and secure it in place with the factory bolts. You will need a 13mm socket for this job.
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49. Use a gasket scraper to remove all the gasket material from the mating surface of your thermostat housing.
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50. Use a wire brush or emery cloth to remove some of the heavy build up from the hose connectors on your thermostat housing.
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51. Place a new gasket on to the mating surface of your thermostat housing making sure it lines up with all the holes.
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52. Place your new thermostat onto the opening on your Jeep's engine block.
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53. Reinstall your thermostat housing and secure it in place using the factory bolts. You will need a 13mm socket for this job.
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54. Reconnect the temperature sensor plug back into the thermostat housing and lock it in place.
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55. Reinstall the heater hose onto the water pump connecting tube and secure it in place with its hose clamp. You will need a flathead screw driver for this job.
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56. Reconnect the heater hose onto the thermostat housing and secure it in place with it's hose clamp. A flathead screw driver will be needed for this job.
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57. Reinstall the factory pulley onto your new water pump and secure it in place using the factory bolts. You will need a 13mm and 1/2" wrench for this job.
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58. Back at your work bench, remove the 4 bolts securing the mechanical fan blades to the fan clutch. Use a 13mm to help hold the fan in place and then use a 1/2" wrench to remove the bolts.
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59. Take the fan blades and install it onto your new fan clutch making sure the blades are facing the same direction. Secure it to the fan clutch using the bolts provided with the kit. You will need a 13mm and 1/2" wrench for this job.
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60. Carefully reinstall your mechanical fan back on to the pulley being careful not to make contact with the radiator and damage its fins and then secure it in place using the factory nuts. You will need a 13mm and 1/2" wrench for this job.
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61. Reinstall your upper radiator hose onto the thermostat housing and secure it in place with its hose clamp. You will need a flat head screw driver for this job.
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62. Install your lower radiator hose onto your new water pump and secure it in place with it's hose clamp. You will need a flat head screw driver for this job.
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63. Begin reinstall your power steering pump by securing it to the intake manifold using the 3 factory bolts. As before, you will need to rotate the pulley so that you can gain access to the bolts through the holes in it. A 13mm socket and ratchet extension will be needed for this job.
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64. Secure the power steering brace to the front of your water pump housing using the 2 factory bolts. You will need a 15mm socket for this job.
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65. Secure the power steering lower brace to the side of your engine block using the factory bolt. You will need a 15mm socket for this job.
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66. Reinstall your serpentine belt according to the diagram on your fan shroud or photo you too earlier and then tighten the adjuster using a 15mm socket.
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67. Lock the idler pulley in place by tightening its bolt using a 15mm socket.
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68. Reinstall your fan shroud and secure it in place using the factory screws. You will need an 8mm socket for this job.
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69. Reconnect the radiator overflow hose to the filler neck of your radiator.
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70. Reinstall your electric fan and secure it in place using the factory screws. You will need an 8mm socket for this job.
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71. Reconnect the electric fan plug and lock it in place.
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72. Reinstall your air box and secure it in place with the 2 bolts and one nut. You will need a 13mm socket and ratchet extension for this job.
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73. Reinstall your air filter, reinstall the air box lid and lock it in place.
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74. Reinstall the PCV hose onto the side port on the air box lid.
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75. Reconnect the intake tube onto the air box and lock in place by squeezing the clamp together.
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76. Refill your radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water.
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That should be it. Run your engine till it warms up and check your heater hoses to make sure they are both getting hot. If they do, you're good to go. If not, you most likely have air in the system and you will need to burp it. This can usually be done simply by running your engine with the radiator cap off but sometimes, loosening the heater hose on your thermostat and running the motor till coolant comes out is needed.

Be sure to take your used coolant to your local auto parts store so that it can be recycled or disposed of properly.

I hope this write-up was able to help you out. :cool:
 
Wow. Lots of pics. I'm sure many 4.0L owners will be very happy to see all that detail when they find this thread. Good pics.
 
Thx for the informative write up and accompanying pics. My '92 MJ doesn't have an electric fan/shroud which I thought was 'cause it has no a/c. Hmmm?? The mechanical fan is small to say the least and the thermostat is old and suspect. It's never overheated here in Denver but then I haven't used it for slow trail work on a hot day. Better get busy and scout up an aftermarket electric fan and shroud. It has no leaks, but while I'm adding the new fan/shroud it'll be a good idea to replace the clutch, thermostat, pump, etc.:yup:
 
Thanks Eddie, will likely be doing this on my sons 95 XJ shortly.

Any reason why you installed the gaskets dry ? I've always used Permatex Form a Gasket or more recently blue hylomar.
 
Spaulding said:
Thanks Eddie, will likely be doing this on my sons 95 XJ shortly.

Any reason why you installed the gaskets dry ? I've always used Permatex Form a Gasket or more recently blue hylomar.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I just did it to see if it would work and - it did. In the past, I used to use gaskets that came with what looked like a bead RTV on it already and they work well too.
 
Linebacker said:
Thx for the informative write up and accompanying pics. My '92 MJ doesn't have an electric fan/shroud which I thought was 'cause it has no a/c. Hmmm?? The mechanical fan is small to say the least and the thermostat is old and suspect. It's never overheated here in Denver but then I haven't used it for slow trail work on a hot day. Better get busy and scout up an aftermarket electric fan and shroud. It has no leaks, but while I'm adding the new fan/shroud it'll be a good idea to replace the clutch, thermostat, pump, etc.:yup:
Click to expand...

You know, you not having AC might in fact be why you don't have an electric fan. Check to see if you have a plug for one over by the radiator fill port - if you do, I might consider getting one as they really aren't that expensive and it would help to keep things cool.
 
Great job Eddie. I still prefer pulling the front header panel and leaning the Radiator/AC Condenssor to the front because it give you more room to work and a better angle when getting to bolts but I love all the write-ups and have already emailed this to 2 different XJ guys who were just asking how to do this.

Keep up the Great work.

Baconator
 
wayoflife said:
You know, you not having AC might in fact be why you don't have an electric fan. Check to see if you have a plug for one over by the radiator fill port - if you do, I might consider getting one as they really aren't that expensive and it would help to keep things cool.
Click to expand...

There is a port and so The Rabid is gonna get a shroud w/electric fan, probably Flex-a-Lite. Thx.:yup:
 
I just did this on my XJ, but I got a new water outlet as well. The only things I took off were the serpentine belt and mechanical fan. I am a minimalist though :)
 
Water pump

I would reccomend spending g a little more and getting a water pump from flowKooler as at low rpm it circulates 3x the amount of water which keeps engine cooler which is very helpful on the trails or out around town
 
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