'13 JKU Drag Link/Tie Rod Movement

USMC Wrangler · Jan 23, 2016

I now have 27000 miles on Spider and have been fighting a couple of handling issues.

A few months ago I had a left pull during acceleration and a right pull during deceleration. This was after installing the EVO Leveling kit. I loosened all the LCA's and both track bars, shook the Jeep to loosen up any binding from the lift and it seemed fine after that. The steering wheel was crooked to the drivers side, which I adjusted using the awesome DIY alignment write up. Thanks for that again!

I rotated my tires about two weeks ago and the same pulling returned. Now the steering wheel was crooked to the passenger side. (Complete opposite from when I installed the leveling kit.) I've straightened the steering wheel again but the pull is still there. Tire pressure is balanced on all four. I do not have any play in the ball joints that I can detect.

I crawled under the Jeep today and can't remember if having up and down play in the drag link and tie rod is normal??? Here's a quick video I just shot...

http://youtu.be/2MmXScrNjTQ

If this is normal, why would my steering wheel change so much after a simple tire rotation?

I did not loosen the UCA's to avoid binding after the leveling kit. Is this something I should do or leave it alone?

Thanks in advance!

USMC Wrangler · Jan 24, 2016

Bump [emoji106]

10frank9 · Jan 24, 2016

Up and down play is normal but that looks pretty sloppy. My end links were blown and my Jeep had a problem tracking. After the rubicon trip that made my stock tie rod frown even more I replaced it. I have nice tight tracking now.

Still have a bit of a wobble but my BJ's are up for replacement. (Also have a '13) with around 27k)

Edit. Start with your tie rod. My drag link is next up as its bent as well.

USMC Wrangler · Jan 25, 2016

Thanks! So when you say start with the tie rod are you suggesting full replacement or ends only? I do a lot of my own maintenance but have never messed with these types of components before. Appreciate the help!

JKbrick · Jan 25, 2016

10frank9 said:
Up and down play is normal but that looks pretty sloppy. My end links were blown and my Jeep had a problem tracking. After the rubicon trip that made my stock tie rod frown even more I replaced it. I have nice tight tracking now.

Still have a bit of a wobble but my BJ's are up for replacement. (Also have a '13) with around 27k)

Edit. Start with your tie rod. My drag link is next up as its bent as well.

Do you need a stock drag link?

USMC Wrangler · Jan 25, 2016

JKbrick said:
Do you need a stock drag link?

If that was for me, I don't think so but also don't really know any better. The drag link does rotate but with much more force required than the tie rod. To me the tie rod has a ton of play in it, almost twisting the steering stabilizer around. I'm currently looking into two options at the moment...

1) Re-torque all front end components

2) finding replacement tie rod ends that fit the factory T-R and are grease-able.

JKbrick · Jan 25, 2016

USMC Wrangler said:
If that was for me, I don't think so but also don't really know any better. The drag link does rotate but with much more force required than the tie rod. To me the tie rod has a ton of play in it, almost twisting the steering stabilizer around. I'm currently looking into two options at the moment...

1) Re-torque all front end components

2) finding replacement tie rod ends that fit the factory T-R and are grease-able.

Either one of you really. I've read good things on here about the Currie steering components

JKbrick · Jan 25, 2016

USMC Wrangler said:
If that was for me, I don't think so but also don't really know any better. The drag link does rotate but with much more force required than the tie rod. To me the tie rod has a ton of play in it, almost twisting the steering stabilizer around. I'm currently looking into two options at the moment...

1) Re-torque all front end components

2) finding replacement tie rod ends that fit the factory T-R and are grease-able.

Not sure if you can put new ends in the factory tie rod? The guys here seem to like the Currie tie rod

USMC Wrangler · Jan 25, 2016

JKbrick said:
Either one of you really. I've read good things on here about the Currie steering components

Gotcha...yeah I've noticed the same. If it comes down to it, that's the route I'll go.

JKbrick said:
Not sure if you can put new ends in the factory tie rod? The guys here seem to like the Currie tie rod

I found some Moog brand at Summit Racing but it's not clear to me if they will fit the factory rod. I plan on making some calls after I try the re-torque.

10frank9 · Jan 25, 2016

USMC Wrangler said:
Thanks! So when you say start with the tie rod are you suggesting full replacement or ends only? I do a lot of my own maintenance but have never messed with these types of components before. Appreciate the help!

Replace your tie rod with a high quality one with replaceable end links like Currie or even the new Rock Krawler. :yup:

JKbrick said:
Do you need a stock drag link?

Thanks but I have the drag link flip. May go with an aftermarket HD drag link. Or I may just get a replacement RHD drag link.

USMC Wrangler · Jan 25, 2016

10frank9 said:
Replace your tie rod with a high quality one with replaceable end links like Currie or even the new Rock Krawler. :yup:

Damn! And I didn't even bend it yet! [emoji23]

JKbrick · Jan 25, 2016

USMC Wrangler said:
I found some Moog brand at Summit Racing but it's not clear to me if they will fit the factory rod. I plan on making some calls after I try the re-torque.

I don't recall the brand but Eddie made a SEMA thread on a brand of tie rods this year that looked nice, had almost forgotten about them

USMC Wrangler · Jan 27, 2016

So I took today off work to try to figure this out.

I have no play in the tie rod, ball joints or drag link at the joints, left to right. My buddy's 2014 has the same amount of up and down rotation in the tie rod and drag link as mine with close to the same amount of miles.
Steering wheel is centered but went through the DIY alignment thread. Results are...

Toe in is exactly equal at 65 7/8" front and rear of front tires. I did use the mold lines of my tires. Is zero toe in bad versus 1/16"???

Castor is Driver side = 5 and Pass = 2.5. This is on stock control arms. Why would my castor be so different? Bent arm???

Front axle centering measurements shows 1/8" towards driver side

Rear axle centering measurements shows 3/8" towards driver side.

Here's my wild guess as to the issues...

My best conclusion of the cause to the pulling/flighty feeling above 55 mph is from the combination of the castor not being equal, the rear axle being slightly more off center, running 255/80R17 KM2's (32" tall x 7.5" tread contact width, actual measurements) and 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers. If I'm way off base here, please speak up.

Right after I post this I will go through all the control arms and both track bars to make sure there is no binding and the torque specs are still good. I did not loosen and re-torque any of the upper control arms after installing the leveling kit. Why? I'm not really sure why I failed to do this.

USMC Wrangler · Jan 28, 2016

Readers digest of my last ramble...

Is zero toe in bad versus 1/16 inch???

I'm guessing even though I can't see a bend one of my lower arms are bent?
Castor is Driver side = 5 and Pass = 2.5.

10frank9 · Jan 28, 2016

The purpose of setting the toe in 1/16" of an inch is so that your front wheels don't wander and actually track.

WJCO · Jan 28, 2016

USMC Wrangler said:
Readers digest of my last ramble...

Is zero toe in bad versus 1/16 inch???

I'm guessing even though I can't see a bend one of my lower arms are bent?
Castor is Driver side = 5 and Pass = 2.5.

That's a huge difference. I would park the vehicle on another spot and measure again just to make sure the ground didn't interfere if it wasn't level. Was the spot(s) that you checked the caster cleaned off really good? Also, measure your front control arms from bolt to bolt. Make sure the lower two are identical to each other and that the upper two are identical to each other.

ScoobyCarolanNC · Jan 28, 2016

USMC Wrangler said:
I now have 27000 miles on Spider and have been fighting a couple of handling issues.

A few months ago I had a left pull during acceleration and a right pull during deceleration. This was after installing the EVO Leveling kit. I loosened all the LCA's and both track bars, shook the Jeep to loosen up any binding from the lift and it seemed fine after that. The steering wheel was crooked to the drivers side, which I adjusted using the awesome DIY alignment write up. Thanks for that again!

I rotated my tires about two weeks ago and the same pulling returned. Now the steering wheel was crooked to the passenger side. (Complete opposite from when I installed the leveling kit.) I've straightened the steering wheel again but the pull is still there. Tire pressure is balanced on all four. I do not have any play in the ball joints that I can detect.

I crawled under the Jeep today and can't remember if having up and down play in the drag link and tie rod is normal??? Here's a quick video I just shot...

http://youtu.be/2MmXScrNjTQ

If this is normal, why would my steering wheel change so much after a simple tire rotation?

I did not loosen the UCA's to avoid binding after the leveling kit. Is this something I should do or leave it alone?

Thanks in advance!

That looks a bit more than I have stock with 80K miles on mine. Is the rubber cracked at all? It should have some up & down, but no left to right play.

ScoobyCarolanNC · Jan 28, 2016

What PSI are you running too? If you're above 36 that could contribute slightly as well.

USMC Wrangler · Jan 28, 2016

10frank9 said:
The purpose of setting the toe in 1/16" of an inch is so that your front wheels don't wander and actually track.

I was shocked it was dead on at zero. I'll go through it again and adjust as needed, thanks!

WJCO said:
That's a huge difference. I would park the vehicle on another spot and measure again just to make sure the ground didn't interfere if it wasn't level. Was the spot(s) that you checked the caster cleaned off really good? Also, measure your front control arms from bolt to bolt. Make sure the lower two are identical to each other and that the upper two are identical to each other.

I used the top ball joint for the castor measurement and they were definitely cleaned off beforehand. The angle finder used is just like the one in the write-up too, just for info. I also measured twice with the same result, after checking my driveway angle in two different locations. I'll check on those control arm measurements.

ScoobyCarolanNC said:
That looks a bit more than I have stock with 80K miles on mine. Is the rubber cracked at all? It should have some up & down, but no left to right play.

No cracked rubber and no left to right play at any of the joints.

ScoobyCarolanNC said:
What PSI are you running too? If you're above 36 that could contribute slightly as well.

My Viair and one other handheld psi gauge shows 35 when cold for all 4 on the ground. Discount Tire wanted me to run these at 40 when I got them. 35 was the number after chalk testing them.

USMC Wrangler · Jan 31, 2016

So my passenger side LCA shows 1/4" shorter than the driver side. I did find a small scratch on the bottom, near the middle where I must've smacked it pretty good. I guess that means either a new stock one or an excuse for adjustable front lowers.

If I get adjustable front LCA's will this throw anything else out like the track bar?

'13 JKU Drag Link/Tie Rod Movement

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