Pricing Things Out

bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
So I think I have everything priced out that I need/ want for a lift, tires, etc. Do the prices and components all sound right? Am I missing anything? BTW I have a 2013 JKUR.
-5 Tire Northridge4x4 deal Nitto Trail Grapplers 35" (1700)
-EVO MFG 3″ ENFORCER KIT WITH PLUSH SPRINGS, JK/JKU from evo website (1300)
-J.E. REEL JK 2012+, FRONT 1350 C.V. HEAVY DUTY DRIVE LINE, 2/4 DOOR, AUTOMATIC TRANS from Northridge4x4 ($700)

Am I missing anything? I will be using the stock Rubicon rims.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Contact trail jeeps. They will give you a better deal and are friendlier to work with
 
Speeddmn

Speeddmn

New member
bruggymonster said:
So I think I have everything priced out that I need/ want for a lift, tires, etc. Do the prices and components all sound right? Am I missing anything? BTW I have a 2013 JKUR.
-5 Tire Northridge4x4 deal Nitto Trail Grapplers 35" (1700)
-EVO MFG 3″ ENFORCER KIT WITH PLUSH SPRINGS, JK/JKU from evo website (1300)
-J.E. REEL JK 2012+, FRONT 1350 C.V. HEAVY DUTY DRIVE LINE, 2/4 DOOR, AUTOMATIC TRANS from Northridge4x4 ($700)

Am I missing anything? I will be using the stock Rubicon rims.
Click to expand...

Wheels or spacers? 200-2000 Depends... Assuming you are going 35x12.7x17 (stock wheels require spacers due to rubbing.
Shocks? Rancho has a rebate right meow, head to local parts store, keep receipt or rockauto and get em ordered.
Draglink flip? ORE (not EVO) 299 and change.. Unless you want a set up that is not correct.
C-Gussets (ORE) 60 bucks. Cheap insurance.

Also call or email TrailJeeps in Golden Colorado, they will hook you up.
 
Sharkey

Sharkey

Word Ninja
I'd buy my tires from DTD so you can get replacement certificates. Having those certificates has saved my bacon more than once.

...and what they ^^ said, NR4x4 sucks donkey dicks. I would also give TrailJeeps a call just keep in mind they might be a little backed up right now with a few people at Jeep Beach. Be patient.
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
Thanks guys I think Ill have it all after this but if something shoots out as a flaw or recommendation please let me know.

-EVO MFG DRAG LINK FLIP KIT JK/JKU "ORE" ($300)
-5 Tires Nitto Trail Grapplers 35" "DTD" ($1700)
-EVO MFG 3″ ENFORCER KIT WITH PLUSH SPRINGS, JK/JKU "ORE" ($1300)
-J.E. REEL JK 2012+, FRONT 1350 C.V. HEAVY DUTY DRIVE LINE, 2/4 DOOR, AUTOMATIC TRANS "Northridge4x4" ($700)
-1.5" or 1.25" Spidertrax Wheel Spacers "Northridge4x4" ($200)
-EVO MFG FRONT C2 KNUCKLE GUSSET KIT (WELDON) JK/JKU "ORE" ($60)

What do you guys recommend for the spacers? 1.5" or 1.25"? Also will I need a rear drive shaft or only the front? Along with that, what is the difference between a 1350 and 1310, is it just strength or do I absolutely/will want a 1350 hands down? Will I need to re-gear? Also I just have NR4x4 on there until I contact trail jeeps.
 
M

mastrcruse

New member
I've been running Rancho 9000s for 20k miles and they e been great. I put about 15k miles a year in the jeep with various wheeling terrain trips and, for a DD, they've been fantastic.
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
Oh also another quick question, after installing all of these things, will the stock lockers and elec. sway bar disconnect still work?
 
Sheaffadelic

Sheaffadelic

Caught the Bug
I'd also recommend a procal of some sort to help speedometer and such. Just made an order similar to then one ur putting together last week!

And also agree with everyone else. Fuck northridge and call trail jeeps.
 
JK_BUB

JK_BUB

New member
bruggymonster said:
Thanks guys I think Ill have it all after this but if something shoots out as a flaw or recommendation please let me know.

-EVO MFG DRAG LINK FLIP KIT JK/JKU "ORE" ($300)
-5 Tires Nitto Trail Grapplers 35" "DTD" ($1700)
-EVO MFG 3″ ENFORCER KIT WITH PLUSH SPRINGS, JK/JKU "ORE" ($1300)
-J.E. REEL JK 2012+, FRONT 1350 C.V. HEAVY DUTY DRIVE LINE, 2/4 DOOR, AUTOMATIC TRANS "Northridge4x4" ($700)
-1.5" or 1.25" Spidertrax Wheel Spacers "Northridge4x4" ($200)
-EVO MFG FRONT C2 KNUCKLE GUSSET KIT (WELDON) JK/JKU "ORE" ($60)

What do you guys recommend for the spacers? 1.5" or 1.25"? Also will I need a rear drive shaft or only the front? Along with that, what is the difference between a 1350 and 1310, is it just strength or do I absolutely/will want a 1350 hands down? Will I need to re-gear? Also I just have NR4x4 on there until I contact trail jeeps.
Click to expand...

I would recommend the 1.5" spacers. The 1.25" will likely need the studs ground down for the wheel to sit flush. The extra .25" is barely noticeable and makes for an easier and safer install. As far as a re-gear, I would say it's not absolutely necessary, but sure makes the Jeep drive nicer. If I were you, I would really consider a 3+" lift and go with 37s. Everyone I role with got 35s, regretted it, and switched to 37s (me included).
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
JK_BUB said:
I would recommend the 1.5" spacers. The 1.25" will likely need the studs ground down for the wheel to sit flush. The extra .25" is barely noticeable and makes for an easier and safer install. As far as a re-gear, I would say it's not absolutely necessary, but sure makes the Jeep drive nicer. If I were you, I would really consider a 3+" lift and go with 37s. Everyone I role with got 35s, regretted it, and switched to 37s (me included).
Click to expand...

I will only be driving light trails in Iowa/ corn fields and then daily driving. For this I was thinking I would only want 35s at most.. What are the benefits of a 37" tire besides looking bad ass?
 
Speeddmn

Speeddmn

New member
bruggymonster said:
I will only be driving light trails in Iowa/ corn fields and then daily driving. For this I was thinking I would only want 35s at most.. What are the benefits of a 37" tire besides looking bad ass?
Click to expand...

Well one is looking bad ass...

Personally I think 35's on the 4 door models look short. Where as on a 2 door, they look perfect, it is the same with 37's on the 4 door. On a 2 door the 37's would look huge, (imagine a Suzuki Samurai on 33's!!) In reality, when aired up, measured etc, the 37's almost typically measure out to 35 and some change. It is a few extra bucks per tire. Can cause more fatigue in components, plus if you don't have 4.10 gears you will struggle with any hills with 3.73's and 37's.

No one is saying get them, but once you get to them, you will be happier.
 
Clutch

Clutch

Caught the Bug
37's are cool, but for your purposes and for the sake of wear and tear on your jeep, I'd stick with 35s.:)
 
zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
bruggymonster said:
Oh also another quick question, after installing all of these things, will the stock lockers and elec. sway bar disconnect still work?
Click to expand...

Yes.

I like my Fox IFP's for the price. Get the shorter ones in front. Northridge sold me the longer ones and I had an inch of up travel.

Before with too long of a shock with 2.75" of lift:



both shock lengths:



After:

 
Benito

Benito

Caught the Bug
zimm said:
Yes.

I like my Fox IFP's for the price. Get the shorter ones in front. Northridge sold me the longer ones and I had an inch of up travel.

Before with too long of a shock with 2.75" of lift:



both shock lengths:



After:

Click to expand...

Funny, I started with the shorter ones and moved to the longer ones 2 weeks later. I installed the 3" enforcer and longer shocks last year (9/15), the springs would barely unseat. After installing my bumper and winch my front end drooped a little so I have Added a .5" spacer in front and 3.5" bumpstops (3/16).

These are the longer ones with the 3"plush rides, .5" spring spacer and the 3.5" bumpstop.

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1461795778.863767.jpg

That's is 4.25" of shaft showing, and there is 3.5" of space between my bumpstops. At full compression I only have .25" of shock shaft showing due to the upper bumpstop compressing as well. And my springs don't unseat at all.

With the 3" plush rides and the longer shocks you should be "okay"*
 
zimm

zimm

Caught the Bug
Benito said:
Funny, I started with the shorter ones and moved to the longer ones 2 weeks later. I installed the 3" enforcer and longer shocks last year (9/15), the springs would barely unseat. After installing my bumper and winch my front end drooped a little so I have Added a .5" spacer in front and 3.5" bumpstops (3/16).

These are the longer ones with the 3"plush rides, .5" spring spacer and the 3.5" bumpstop.

View attachment 200454

That's is 4.25" of shaft showing, and there is 3.5" of space between my bumpstops. At full compression I only have .25" of shock shaft showing due to the upper bumpstop compressing as well. And my springs don't unseat at all.

With the 3" plush rides and the longer shocks you should be "okay"*
Click to expand...

That looks pretty good. Is that a 2 door? It's riding way taller than my RK 2.5" springs (which I'm measuring 2.75" higher than factory specs).
 
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