Need a hand - ABS & Traction control lights on

Frogmech

Frogmech

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After changing out my rear axle shafts and replacing front axle seals, I got everything back together and I now have the ABS & Traction control lights on constantly.

while I had my rear axle shafts still out and the rear speed sensors disconnected, I did an oil change. Was waiting on my shafts so I figured I could do some other minor maintenance that needed to be done. After the change I fired up the jeep to circulate the oil and check the level. Standard practice for me. When I did that the ABS & TC lights came on and didn't go off. I figured it wasn't a big deal, lights will go off when everything goes back together. Well that didn't happen.

Disconnected the battery and left it overnight. Not sure at the time if that at all is a possible fix so I did it anyway. Re-connected it and fired it up today and lights are still on.

Checked all the connections. All connections are connected and tight. I even thought I'd be clever and use dielectric grease in the connections for good measure.

What now?
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Frogmech said:
After changing out my rear axle shafts and replacing front axle seals, I got everything back together and I now have the ABS & Traction control lights on constantly.

while I had my rear axle shafts still out and the rear speed sensors disconnected, I did an oil change. Was waiting on my shafts so I figured I could do some other minor maintenance that needed to be done. After the change I fired up the jeep to circulate the oil and check the level. Standard practice for me. When I did that the ABS & TC lights came on and didn't go off. I figured it wasn't a big deal, lights will go off when everything goes back together. Well that didn't happen.

Disconnected the battery and left it overnight. Not sure at the time if that at all is a possible fix so I did it anyway. Re-connected it and fired it up today and lights are still on.

Checked all the connections. All connections are connected and tight. I even thought I'd be clever and use dielectric grease in the connections for good measure.

What now?
Click to expand...

If the sensors were unplugged when you started it, that may cause it. See if O'Reillys can clear them with a scan tool. If not, only thing I can think is that new axles had wrong tone rings or something like that.
 
Frogmech

Frogmech

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WJCO said:
If the sensors were unplugged when you started it, that may cause it. See if O'Reillys can clear them with a scan tool. If not, only thing I can think is that new axles had wrong tone rings or something like that.
Click to expand...

I can't say that the tone rings are in question as I haven't actually driven it yet. I just had my driveway paved while this was all going on so I can't leave the garage till Friday. Will driving it clear the issue?
 
thardy

thardy

Banned
Driving it could clear the issue, if in fact nothing's actually wrong. It takes drive time for the computer to resolve issues. At least I know it does with a lot of things.
 
Frogmech

Frogmech

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thardy said:
Driving it could clear the issue, if in fact nothing's actually wrong. It takes drive time for the computer to resolve issues. At least I know it does with a lot of things.
Click to expand...

I'm hoping that's the case. I guess I'm looking for affirmation from someone with experience to tell me that yes, in fact it will go out after so many miles - given all things are connected correctly and working as they should.

Or that no, you need to pull codes and work the issue from that angle.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
this will reset the ECU and clear the codes - from quadratec:

1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.

2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.

3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.

4. Turn the key to on but do not start.

5. Turn the headlights on.

6. Turn the headlights off.

7. Turn the key off.

The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
 
gtony12

gtony12

Caught the Bug
I had the same issue and had to have my pcm, traction control module and abs unit replaced. It cost me $2,200 to fix its all plus one cam shaft sensor[emoji35]
 
Frogmech

Frogmech

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jeeeep said:
this will reset the ECU and clear the codes - from quadratec:

1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.

2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.

3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.

4. Turn the key to on but do not start.

5. Turn the headlights on.

6. Turn the headlights off.

7. Turn the key off.

The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I'll be doing that tomorrow after work then. We'll see what happens after that.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Frogmech said:
Thanks for the info. I'll be doing that tomorrow after work then. We'll see what happens after that.
Click to expand...

I had my ABS kick on while in Moab after I power washed the under carriage, after checking everything nothing seemed out of order. The ABS warning lights didn't go off after a couple of days so I did only the first 3 steps before heading for home and that was enough to clear and haven't had any issues since.

I'm not sure if the full reset doing steps 4-7 will affect your unit if you have a tune installed but I do know the first 3 steps did not affect my Superchips tune, just cleared the code and ABS warning lights
 
Frogmech

Frogmech

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jeeeep said:
I had my ABS kick on while in Moab after I power washed the under carriage, after checking everything nothing seemed out of order. The ABS warning lights didn't go off after a couple of days so I did only the first 3 steps before heading for home and that was enough to clear and haven't had any issues since.

I'm not sure if the full reset doing steps 4-7 will affect your unit if you have a tune installed but I do know the first 3 steps did not affect my Superchips tune, just cleared the code and ABS warning lights
Click to expand...

This is pretty encouraging. I don't have any tuning at all so I don't have to worry about that. Thanks!
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Evil said:
Don't you have to return everything back to stock before doing a reset?
Click to expand...

yes if it's getting flashed at the dealer, not sure if the steps do the same thing as a flash if you leave the tune program installed, I haven't tried beyond step 3 with the tune in place as I mentioned above.

I have used the full procedure when I was having shifting issues after installing my 37's and the mechanics nor transmission shop could figure out why, all the electronics tested fine but it wouldn't shift properly. And after several attempts to reset the tune, I put the stock tune in and did the full procedure then reinstalled the tune and issue solved. Glad I tried it and it worked, I was about to send the transmission off for a complete rebuild :eek:

guess worse case is dropping $100 to have Superchips reset the tune if it did act like a dealer flash.
 
Frogmech

Frogmech

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UPDATE:

Went and tried the positive battery cable disconnect thing as suggested and the lights are still on.

I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow and take it over to the local dealership after work to see what they say. I tried to see if there were any codes via the ignition ON OFF method and nothing came up.
 
Evil

Evil

New member
So lets say I have a pro cal only to adjust the stock perimeters to work with the bigger tires and gearing. Would the Jeep need to be brought back to stock as it was from the dealer to have them do a flash update on the PCM and then the pro cal re done again? One of the dealers here in Vegas is a total pain in my ass. They think the pro cal is a "power tune" If I turn it back to stock, it throws the Jeep into limp mode in about 20 feet and I'm stuck.

On a side note OP, is your steering wheel straight and alignment good?

Sorry to hi jack.
 
Frogmech

Frogmech

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Evil said:
So lets say I have a pro cal only to adjust the stock perimeters to work with the bigger tires and gearing. Would the Jeep need to be brought back to stock as it was from the dealer to have them do a flash update on the PCM and then the pro cal re done again? One of the dealers here in Vegas is a total pain in my ass. They think the pro cal is a "power tune" If I turn it back to stock, it throws the Jeep into limp mode in about 20 feet and I'm stuck.

On a side note OP, is your steering wheel straight and alignment good?

Sorry to hi jack.
Click to expand...

No worries.

Yes my wheel is straight and alignment is good.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Evil said:
So lets say I have a pro cal only to adjust the stock perimeters to work with the bigger tires and gearing. Would the Jeep need to be brought back to stock as it was from the dealer to have them do a flash update on the PCM and then the pro cal re done again? One of the dealers here in Vegas is a total pain in my ass. They think the pro cal is a "power tune" If I turn it back to stock, it throws the Jeep into limp mode in about 20 feet and I'm stuck.

On a side note OP, is your steering wheel st<script id="gpt-impl-0.189378555208297" src="http://partner.googleadservices.com/gpt/pubads_impl_87.js"></script>raight and alignment good?

Sorry to hi jack.
Click to expand...

take the tuner to the dealer and return it to stock when you get there - be sure to let them know. but...I've also heard from guys with the newer models that a flash did not affect their tire/gear tuning nor connecting the tuner again.

reach out to pro cal and see what they recommend
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Frogmech said:
UPDATE:

Went and tried the positive battery cable disconnect thing as suggested and the lights are still on.

I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow and take it over to the local dealership after work to see what they say. I tried to see if there were any codes via the ignition ON OFF method and nothing came up.
Click to expand...

well that sucks, hopefully it's just something simple
 
bonedaddy

bonedaddy

Member
I just figured it out!

UP, UP, DOWN, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, LEFT, RIGHT, B, A, START

Konami Code man! Back in the day that shit fixed everything... :rock:


sorry Dave, I couldn't help myself ... :bleh:
 
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