Adjustable control arm question

jorgelrod

Hooked
I had to buy adjustable control arms for the Prorock 44 installation to set correct caster on the axle. The store was trying to recommend me Iron Rok, but in the end, I ended up buying a Metalcloak full set they had on the store from a guy who ordered it and then never fully paid it at a discounted price. Since it is a full set Front/Rear, what should I do with the rear? Set it at the same length as the factory or is there any adjustment I should take advantage of the Adj. arms and do? I sit at 3" on the lift...
 

WJCO

Meme King
Lowers same length as stock. Uppers adjusted so your pinion angle is the same as the driveshaft angle. Pinion and driveshaft should point right at each other.
 

jorgelrod

Hooked
Lowers same length as stock. Uppers adjusted so your pinion angle is the same as the driveshaft angle. Pinion and driveshaft should point right at each other.

Let me get this straight, the RZEPA at the axle side should be straight and the one at the T-Case in an angle, correct???
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I had to buy adjustable control arms for the Prorock 44 installation to set correct caster on the axle. The store was trying to recommend me Iron Rok, but in the end, I ended up buying a Metalcloak full set they had on the store from a guy who ordered it and then never fully paid it at a discounted price. Since it is a full set Front/Rear, what should I do with the rear? Set it at the same length as the factory or is there any adjustment I should take advantage of the Adj. arms and do? I sit at 3" on the lift...

Your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory rear lower control arms measure 19-5/8″ in length eye to eye. Assuming you have a true 3" of lift, I would set your rear lower control arms to being 19-3/4″ long which is 1/8″ longer than stock. This is just a starting point and depending on how much lift you actually have, you may find it necessary to make adjustments from there.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Let me get this straight, the RZEPA at the axle side should be straight and the one at the T-Case in an angle, correct???

Factory shafts with rzeppa joints don't need to be set any specific way to work properly and be vibration free. That being said, if you do have adjustable rear upper control arms, I would set them so that your pinion is inline with your drive shaft. This way, if you ever upgrade your rear drive shaft, it will be set for it.
 

jorgelrod

Hooked
Your Jeep JK Wrangler’s factory rear lower control arms measure 19-5/8″ in length eye to eye. Assuming you have a true 3" of lift, I would set your rear lower control arms to being 19-3/4″ long which is 1/8″ longer than stock. This is just a starting point and depending on how much lift you actually have, you may find it necessary to make adjustments from there.

I figure the extra length is to compensate for the loss in distance as the arms play in their arc, but how do you come up with the 19-3/4" length? I'm just curious as this sounds hella interesting...


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I figure the extra length is to compensate for the loss in distance as the arms play in their arc, but how do you come up with the 19-3/4" length? I'm just curious as this sounds hella interesting...

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

It's just a starting point. Your control arm is like the hypotenus of a triangle but not exactly. Just because you go taller doesn't mean the need to get longer by the same amount. As I said, you may need to make further adjustments but it's better to make small measured steps.
 

woof359

Member
huge diff

I added front lowers to mine, I have a 3 inch lift and it made a big difference in how it drove down the road, not as much wondering. I went with the measurement included in the directions, they went on very easily and I got back almost all my caster, I even forgot I had installed them after a couple weeks since it drove almost like it did brand new.
 

Slimebones

Active Member
Hope I am not hijacking this, please tell me if I am. Have often wondered if you need to keep more diff fluid in rear if it is angled upwards to correct pinion angle for higher lifts. Does the pinion bearing get sufficient lubrication if level is just to the height of the axle as recommended? Or should you raise the fluid level to compensate?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Hope I am not hijacking this, please tell me if I am. Have often wondered if you need to keep more diff fluid in rear if it is angled upwards to correct pinion angle for higher lifts. Does the pinion bearing get sufficient lubrication if level is just to the height of the axle as recommended? Or should you raise the fluid level to compensate?

The position of the fill hole may change your ability to fill your differential to capacity but the angle of your differential in and of itself will NOT change the amount of fluid you need. If you put too much fluid in, it WILL pump itself out of the breather tube.
 

Slimebones

Active Member
The position of the fill hole may change your ability to fill your differential to capacity but the angle of your differential in and of itself will NOT change the amount of fluid you need. If you put too much fluid in, it WILL pump itself out of the breather tube.

I think I get that, and have an aftermarket diff cover which is pretty high fill hole. Just wondering if pinion bearing gets enough lubrication since it sits higher than stock. Does not sound like level needs to be higher to help out here. OCD kicking in.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I think I get that, and have an aftermarket diff cover which is pretty high fill hole. Just wondering if pinion bearing gets enough lubrication since it sits higher than stock. Does not sound like level needs to be higher to help out here. OCD kicking in.

You need to understand that your ring gear is what pumps oil onto your pinion bearings.
 

Slimebones

Active Member
You need to understand that your ring gear is what pumps oil onto your pinion bearings.

I suspected such, just looking for clarification. Have not heard of others having issues because of this, just wondered on this matter. My mind messes with me at times. Totally appreciate your input. Settled.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I suspected such, just looking for clarification. Have not heard of others having issues because of this, just wondered on this matter. My mind messes with me at times. Totally appreciate your input. Settled.

A Dynatrac ProRock 60, ProRock 80 or XD60 all have a double sump oiling system that ensure your pinion bearings ALWAYS have oil regardless of how long it's been since you last drove your Jeep or even what angle you're sitting in. But, they're the only ones I know of that have this proprietary feature.
 

WJCO

Meme King
A Dynatrac ProRock 60, ProRock 80 or XD60 all have a double sump oiling system that ensure your pinion bearings ALWAYS have oil regardless of how long it's been since you last drove your Jeep or even what angle you're sitting in. But, they're the only ones I know of that have this proprietary feature.

How does that work? Is there a cavity cast in around the bearing? I've noticed there's an extra plug back there by the pinion.
 

Slimebones

Active Member
A Dynatrac ProRock 60, ProRock 80 or XD60 all have a double sump oiling system that ensure your pinion bearings ALWAYS have oil regardless of how long it's been since you last drove your Jeep or even what angle you're sitting in. But, they're the only ones I know of that have this proprietary feature.

Would for sure be nice to have that feature and benefit. Have seen their products via your posts. On my bucket list.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
How does that work? Is there a cavity cast in around the bearing? I've noticed there's an extra plug back there by the pinion.

There is a proprietary chamber surrounding the pinion bearing along with a port where oil gets pump into it. There is also a separate fill port that you need to use when servicing the axle.
 
Top Bottom