1410 Rear Driveshaft

SLO

SLO

Member
Any reason not to do a 1410 rear drive shaft? Looking at going with Adams. My understanding is that the diameter of the shaft is the same, the only difference is the u-joint size. I can get the D70 pinion yoke for $50 and the 1410 isn’t much more than a 1350. Just making sure I’m not missing some catch on going 1410 instead of 1350.


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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I'm running one for the ProRock 80 that I have on Moby. The only thing you should be aware of is that the yoke is bigger and it may hit the gas tank at a full flex or at least, it could if you've got big enough flex. EDIT: I see that you've got a MetalCloak system - shouldn't be an issue.
 
SLO

SLO

Member
Heh...not at all. Makes sense. Thanks Eddie! Knowing me, I’ll probably eventually go with the EVO bolt-on coils so that is something to consider.

Would a gas tank skid make it worse or is the contact point somewhere the skid isn’t?


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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
SLO said:
Heh...not at all. Makes sense. Thanks Eddie! Knowing me, I’ll probably eventually go with the EVO bolt-on coils so that is something to consider.

Would a gas tank skid make it worse or is the contact point somewhere the skid isn’t?
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A gas tank skid will make it worse. I've had to pound in my factory skid to help give it more clearance.
 
Exodus 4x4

Exodus 4x4

New member
SLO said:
Definitely don’t need one. I guess a better question is whether it is worth $150 extra for the additional strength. Just trying to beef up where needed to account for the power and torque of the LS and the weight of 40’s.


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I don’t know if it’s worth worrying about. I’ve built a couple of LS Jeeps with nearly 500 ft/lbs of torque and they’re running 40’s. One of them ran the Rubicon recently and didn’t break any u-joints. My L9H has 410 ft/lbs and I’v never been worried.

I think it all comes back to how you wheel though. I know some guys that could probably break a 1410 with the V6 because they go full potato. If you want to spend the extra money and deal with clearance issues, then go for it. Keep in mind you’ll probably want to keep an extra 1410 u-joint handy in case you do have a failure.


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SLO

SLO

Member
Exodus Jeeps said:
Keep in mind you’ll probably want to keep an extra 1410 u-joint handy in case you do have a failure.


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Maybe I’ll just stick with the 1350. Adams said that the shaft isn’t any larger in diameter on the 1410, it’s just a larger u-joint so I’d want a spare 1350 u-joint as well...even more so, right?

BaddestCross said:
View attachment 317878

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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[emoji23]🤣[emoji23]🤣


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Exodus 4x4

Exodus 4x4

New member
SLO said:
Maybe I’ll just stick with the 1350. Adams said that the shaft isn’t any larger in diameter on the 1410, it’s just a larger u-joint so I’d want a spare 1350 u-joint as well...even more so, right?


[emoji23]🤣[emoji23]🤣


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I always carry spare u-joints, at least 2. Every u-joint on my Jeep is 1350 as well as most people I wheel with. I only mention it to you because if you did have a failure the 1410 is probably not going to be as handy as the 1350.


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Brute

Brute

Hooked

Interesting site you peruse...that guy is lucky to be alive...

I put a 1410 front shaft in my JK6...there was a minor clearance issue with the bottom of the tub, which we resolved with making a mini tunnel where the joint was...
 
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SLO

SLO

Member
Ok, so my Jeep is 95% done and Motech just got measurements for the driveshafts. I’m gonna stick with the 1350 in the rear so I don’t have to worry about clearance. Just found out, however, that Motech typically does a 1310 in the front with a 1310 pinion and a 1350 yoke (or maybe it’s the other way around). This is because the 1350 can have clearance issues in the front with the 6L80. This would save me a bunch of money as I already have a 1310 in the front that they could just modify but I’m wondering, for those of you with 40’s and a V8, have you run a 1350 in the front and had any issues? Just worried about the 1310 in the front not being strong enough.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
SLO said:
Ok, so my Jeep is 95% done and Motech just got measurements for the driveshafts. I’m gonna stick with the 1350 in the rear so I don’t have to worry about clearance. Just found out, however, that Motech typically does a 1310 in the front with a 1310 pinion and a 1350 yoke (or maybe it’s the other way around). This is because the 1350 can have clearance issues in the front with the 6L80. This would save me a bunch of money as I already have a 1310 in the front that they could just modify but I’m wondering, for those of you with 40’s and a V8, have you run a 1350 in the front and had any issues? Just worried about the 1310 in the front not being strong enough.
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Lol save money? You put 40’s big boy axles and a V8 and you want to try and save $100 to have a Driveshaft that is weaker than stock? That makes zero sense. And the 1410 will fit fine in rear with a motech V8. I’ve seen it.


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SLO

SLO

Member
OverlanderJK said:
Lol save money? You put 40’s big boy axles and a V8 and you want to try and save $100 to have a Driveshaft that is weaker than stock? That makes zero sense. And the 1410 will fit fine in rear with a motech V8. I’ve seen it.


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Not worried about saving the money, just don’t know how much I really have to worry about the 1350 hitting the t-case or transmission. Motech claims that there can be clearance issues at full articulation but I’m not sure I will be able to flex that much with 40’s anyway. I figured out the rear, just worried about the front being undersized for the power of the V8 and the weight of 40’s. Wondering what others have done.
 
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