Seeking Assistance with Regear Parts List

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darkscion0

New member
I have a 2012 non-rubi JKU that I just threw 35s on and I'm looking to do a regear. Everything I've looked at points to me having 3.21 gears now. I'm looking to work up a complete parts list for the job. It gets a little fuzzy when I get into the carriers do I only need a new carrier for the front?

List:
- Ring & pinion (Front)
- Master rebuild kit (Front)
- Ring & pinion (Rear)
- Master rebuild kit (Rear)
- Loaded carrier Dana 30 3.73 and up (Front)
- Diff oil

Thanks!
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Before you go spending a boat load of money regearing, have you taken the time to accurately recalibrate your speedometer using something like a ProCal? Being that you have a 2012, I would think pushing 35's with 3.21's shouldn't be too bad so long as your speedo is on as that will control your shift points.

If you are determined to regear, I might recommend that you wait until you can afford to install some lockers. If you don't, you will pay for the same labor twice when you do.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
darkscion0 said:
I have a 2012 non-rubi JKU that I just threw 35s on and I'm looking to do a regear. Everything I've looked at points to me having 3.21 gears now. I'm looking to work up a complete parts list for the job. It gets a little fuzzy when I get into the carriers do I only need a new carrier for the front?

List:
- Ring & pinion (Front)
- Master rebuild kit (Front)
- Ring & pinion (Rear)
- Master rebuild kit (Rear)
- Loaded carrier Dana 30 3.73 and up (Front)
- Diff oil

Thanks!
Click to expand...

wayoflife said:
Before you go spending a boat load of money regearing, have you taken the time to accurately recalibrate your speedometer using something like a ProCal? Being that you have a 2012, I would think pushing 35's with 3.21's shouldn't be too bad so long as your speedo is on as that will control your shift points.

If you are determined to regear, I might recommend that you wait until you can afford to install some lockers. If you don't, you will pay for the same labor twice when you do.
Click to expand...



first i would try and grab a build sheet from chrysler to see exactly what gears you have. there is a thred on here somewhere on how to request one. i thought i has 3.21's as well from looking around but when i got my build sheet i found out i had 3.73's so i was super excited to say the least! i just got the AEV Procal yesterday and it makes a HUGE difference. i had 28's (or whatever the smallest factory tire is) and put 32's on and it got sluggish. after i recalibrated everything yesterday for my tires and to make sure to gear setting were right i notice that factory feel again.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
cozdude said:
first i would try and grab a build sheet from chrysler to see exactly what gears you have. there is a thred on here somewhere on how to request one. i thought i has 3.21's as well from looking around but when i got my build sheet i found out i had 3.73's so i was super excited to say the least! i just got the AEV Procal yesterday and it makes a HUGE difference. i had 28's (or whatever the smallest factory tire is) and put 32's on and it got sluggish. after i recalibrated everything yesterday for my tires and to make sure to gear setting were right i notice that factory feel again.
Click to expand...

No need to get a build sheet. Simply mark one of your rear tires with some chalk or paint and then do the same on your drive shaft. On flat ground, slowly roll your Jeep forward or back and count how many revolutions your drive shaft makes to complete one full rotation of your tire. If it's just a bit more than three, you have 3.21's, if it's almost four, you have 3.73's, if it's a bit more than four, you have 4.10's. :cool:

Oh, and to the OP, this post backs up what I was saying. Save some money and try to recalibrate your speedo first. :yup:
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
wayoflife said:
No need to get a build sheet. Simply mark one of your rear tires with some chalk or paint and then do the same on your drive shaft. On flat ground, slowly roll your Jeep forward or back and count how many revolutions your drive shaft makes to complete one full rotation of your tire. If it's just a bit more than three, you have 3.21's, if it's almost four, you have 3.73's, if it's a bit more than four, you have 4.10's. :cool:

Oh, and to the OP, this post backs up what I was saying. Save some money and try to recalibrate your speedo first. :yup:
Click to expand...



very innovative Eddie i like it!:thumb:
 
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darkscion0

New member
Already all Procal'ed (that's right, I made it a verb) up. Driving around town is decent but I had to take it on the highway over the weekend and with the new tires, 3.21s (I will verify) and a headwind, I ended up with my highway mileage being worst than city. With the possible issues with a auto locker putting the Jeep into limp mode I really want to go with an ARB air locker which probably isn't in the budget right now. I don't want to throw a locker on the 30 for fear of blowing it up with 35s. I have a quote for about $600 CDN to do the front and back without lockers which I think is pretty reasonable.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
wayoflife said:
No need to get a build sheet. Simply mark one of your rear tires with some chalk or paint and then do the same on your drive shaft. On flat ground, slowly roll your Jeep forward or back and count how many revolutions your drive shaft makes to complete one full rotation of your tire. If it's just a bit more than three, you have 3.21's, if it's almost four, you have 3.73's, if it's a bit more than four, you have 4.10's. :cool:

Oh, and to the OP, this post backs up what I was saying. Save some money and try to recalibrate your speedo first. :yup:
Click to expand...

Or look on the door sticker. :cheesy:
 
Tcdawg

Tcdawg

New member
darkscion0 said:
Already all Procal'ed (that's right, I made it a verb) up. Driving around town is decent but I had to take it on the highway over the weekend and with the new tires, 3.21s (I will verify) and a headwind, I ended up with my highway mileage being worst than city. With the possible issues with a auto locker putting the Jeep into limp mode I really want to go with an ARB air locker which probably isn't in the budget right now. I don't want to throw a locker on the 30 for fear of blowing it up with 35s. I have a quote for about $600 CDN to do the front and back without lockers which I think is pretty reasonable.
Click to expand...

You can very easily and safely run an auto locker on a d30 and 35's. I know a number of folks who do it with no problems. A few upgrades to the D30 go a long way.
 
billybob990

billybob990

New member
Check out rough country they have a gear package that come with front and rear r&p and master rebuild for front and back, price for a tj is $470 id say its close to that for a jk
 
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darkscion0

New member
I'm up in Canuckia so I'm using http://www.northridge4x4.ca. They have the front and rear R&P + master rebuild kits for $760 CDN w/ free shipping. No one answered my question on carriers but I did find my answer. The rear does not require a new carrier as all JK D44s already use thick ring gears and the appropriate carrier. Also, I think someone mentioned that the gear ratio was printed on the door sticker? It is not. Also the reason I'm weary of running a locker in the 30 is because I'm not just running 35s, I'm running probably the heaviest 35s (mud grapplers). I don't claim to be a perfect or experienced wheeler so I'm taking a bit of precaution here by not locking the front.
 
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Beyrgut

Beyrgut

New member
I think I looked at my door sticker when as well to confirm my Sahara was 3:21 and didn't see it. I ended up going the Chrysler build sheet route to confirm and got the reply within 3 hours.
 
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darkscion0

New member
Yeah my build sheet lists 3.21s and the trailer tow group. It looks like mine was built after they split the 3.73s off from the tow group so I don't have them.
 
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