Would need D44 front, upper bracket

Holeshot · Apr 20, 2013

hey guys, I lost my deal on the PR44u :grayno: But I found a pair of factory rubicon D44 for cheap!

I got them to 2800$ for the pair, ready to go!

and I give him mine both front and rear in exchange. The only thing that need to be fixed is the passenger upper bracket on the front diff that has bent, and I need to find something, either to replace it, or to fix it. Will have pics later today.

built spec

Front :
Gear 4.88,
Factory locker
Factory axles
Sleeved
C-gusset & LCA skid plate
Diff guard
Synergy upper Balljoints
Tube seals
Has a bent upper bracket on the passenger side

Rear :
Gear 4.88
Factory Locker
Factory axles
JKS HD trackbar bracket

Holeshot · Apr 20, 2013

Just found that, I guess this is my best bet.

http://www.synergysuspension.com/Sy...-Johnny-Joint-Upper-Mount-System-p-21359.html

jeeeep · Apr 20, 2013

did you check that everything else is straight and look for weld repair sections..wonder why bracket was bent?
Also, if you have plans to upgrade the Diff and run larger shafts you won't be able to with the tubes sleeved. just things to consider

Holeshot · Apr 20, 2013

I'm actually on 35's, someday I'll go on 37's, but not any bigger.

I know I won't be able to put bigger shafts. I guess factory can hold 37's. I'm not the kind of guy who rides hard enough to break. I prefer winching to breaking.

Holeshot · Apr 22, 2013

jeeeep said:
did you check that everything else is straight and look for weld repair sections..wonder why bracket was bent?
Also, if you have plans to upgrade the Diff and run larger shafts you won't be able to with the tubes sleeved. just things to consider

Ok I got the answer to some questions.

The bracket has bent because he bent a lower control arm on a rock, which applied a force on the upper and bent it. He inspected the welds and everything is fine.

I emailed RCV and got a good answer :thumb:

Hi. Does your RCV the same diameter as the stock axles on a 2012 rubicon? I'm about to get a used sleeved front D44 and would like to put RCV's in it. If I need to order a custom axle set, how much could it cost? Thanks

-------------------------------

Hi Alexandre,

The diameter of the shafts for the '12 Rubicon D44 is 1.25". If the sleeved D44 is meant to take the OEM shafts, our shafts will also fit.

Dean

RCV Performance Customer Support

wayoflife · Apr 22, 2013

So long as you are running factory lockers, you will not have a problem running RCV's. The problem is if you decide to install an ARB like you really should as that'll require you run 35 spline shafts and they will NOT fit with sleeves. If you really hope to run 37's, a factory locker will NOT hold up. I personally would pass on the deal, save up for a PR44 and run ARB's front and rear. The best part about keeping your non-Rubicon rear 44 is that the axle shafts are equal in length meaning, you will only need to carry one spare and, you will be able to upgrade it to a 35 spline setup. If cost is a concern, get over your desire to buy RCV's and you'll save $400 right off the bat.

OverlanderJK · Apr 22, 2013

wayoflife said:
So long as you are running factory lockers, you will not have a problem running RCV's. The problem is if you decide to install an ARB like you really should as that'll require you run 35 spline shafts and they will NOT fit with sleeves. If you really hope to run 37's, a factory locker will NOT hold up. I personally would pass on the deal, save up for a PR44 and run ARB's front and rear. The best part about keeping your non-Rubicon rear 44 is that the axle shafts are equal in length meaning, you will only need to carry one spare and, you will be able to upgrade it to a 35 spline setup. If cost is a concern, get over your desire to buy RCV's and you'll save $400 right off the bat.

This! A PR44 is only $5100 (give or take a little bit) built to the max from EVO. So you only about $2,000 or so away if you already have the $2800. If you sell your stock axles for around $1000 then your even closer. Something to think about.

Holeshot · Apr 22, 2013

I know all that already.

These axles are already fully built. Start from the ground with a PR44 and my non-rubicon rear will cost me over 7500$, this is too much for me.

Some people run 37's on a D30 and have no break. I am gentle on the pedal, so I guess as long as I drive that way I shouldn't have problems. I know its a different school of thoughts, but I have no 10 000$ to spend on axles.

wayoflife · Apr 22, 2013

Holeshot said:
I know all that already.

These axles are already fully built. Start from the ground with a PR44 and my non-rubicon rear will cost me over 7500$, this is too much for me.

Well, if you've got it all figured out, you've got it all figured out - forgive me for offering up any advice :yup:

Some people run 37's on a D30 and have no break. I am gentle on the pedal, so I guess as long as I drive that way I shouldn't have problems. I know its a different school of thoughts, but I have no 10 000$ to spend on axles.

So then why spend any money at all? Based on what some people say and how gentle you say you are on the pedal, it sounds to me like you have the perfect setup already. :idontknow:

Holeshot · Apr 22, 2013

Don't misunderstand me. I was not trying to proove you wrong. We all know what is the best setup, and I know just like you that what you've suggested would be the best. But the money concern makes people choose cheaper options. I also know that someday I probably will break and will need/want to upgrade and also probably will need either a PR44 or OEM D44 with no sleeve, but for now, this setup will do its job.

I said I would like to go on 37's, but this is a goal. Reallity is sometimes differents from our goals. So probably due to money concern, that I will stick to 35's. Only time will tell.

And BTW, I appreciate everyone's input. I'm just tellin that some people, including me, live by the skin of their ass, trying to save 1000$ is a PITA. This is why I choose this options instead of the famous PR44

wayoflife · Apr 22, 2013

Holeshot said:
Don't misunderstand me. I was not trying to proove you wrong. We all know what is the best setup, and I know just like you that what you've suggested would be the best. But the money concern makes people choose cheaper options. I also know that someday I probably will break and will need/want to upgrade and also probably will need either a PR44 or OEM D44 with no sleeve, but for now, this setup will do its job.

I said I would like to go on 37's, but this is a goal. Reallity is sometimes differents from our goals. So probably due to money concern, that I will stick to 35's. Only time will tell.

And BTW, I appreciate everyone's input. I'm just tellin that some people, including me, live by the skin of their ass, trying to save 1000$ is a PITA. This is why I choose this options instead of the famous PR44

It's all good but, you still haven't answered the question of why not just stick with what you've got? If you just plan on running 35's, your D30 should do just fine. If you really do believe that you will break someday, use this time to save up for something better. $2800 is still $2800 and that'll still require you to fix the control arm mount and, being that the axles have clearly been wheeled, who knows if one or both aren't already bent or has a locker or two already that's well on it's way to breaking? Just trying to keep you thinking straight and save you some money but hey, that's just me.

Holeshot · Apr 22, 2013

wayoflife said:
It's all good but, you still haven't answered the question of why not just stick with what you've got? If you just plan on running 35's, your D30 should do just fine.

in fact, doing the switch is even cheaper than built both of my differential.

2400$ in lockers
300$ for the compressor
500$ for gears
add more for bearings, and to get the job done, since I'm not equiped to do it myself. And after all that, you still have a D30 up front.. This is a part of the answer

wayoflife · Apr 22, 2013

Holeshot said:
in fact, doing the switch is even cheaper than built both of my differential.

2400$ in lockers
300$ for the compressor
500$ for gears
add more for bearings, and to get the job done, since I'm not equiped to do it myself. And after all that, you still have a D30 up front.. This is a part of the answer

You're still assuming that you'll be getting straight axles and ones with lockers that work or will continue to work. Do you even have trails or do the kind of wheeling that would require lockers front and rear? Either way, it sounds like you're already sold on buying these axles so please don't let me stand in your way.

OverlanderJK · Apr 22, 2013

That "new" 44 your getting has been abused. I am willing to bet it will only be trouble for you in the long run.

jeeeep · Apr 22, 2013

Holeshot said:
Ok I got the answer to some questions.

The bracket has bent because he bent a lower control arm on a rock, which applied a force on the upper and bent it. He inspected the welds and everything is fine.

I emailed RCV and got a good answer :thumb:

hmmm..if there was that much force to bend an upper due to the lower on an axle that's built up that much, somewhere along the way it must have had a hell of a drop or too much speed to lift and drop - I don't know, I'm not that much experienced on rocks.
That kind of damage IMO speaks to hard driven and I would worry about diff failure in the near future. How many miles are on these? the seller willing to provide some kick back to help repair the diffs if they fail say within 60 days?
I know it's hard to walk away from what appears like a good deal but better to have $2800 in savings towards something in really good shape versus something that looks like a good deal - there are a lot of red flags but it's your deal.
Hope it turns out to be a good deal and once repaired it gives you good performance.

Holeshot · Apr 22, 2013

I'm not sold to these. I like the idea. The only other fair option I see, would be to get only a front D44, completely stock, which I'm sure haven't been beated. And build the rear with a locker and gear to match the front.

I guess this could be almost fair in price.

OverlanderJK · Apr 22, 2013

Holeshot said:
I'm not sold to these. I like the idea. The only other fair option I see, would be to get only a front D44, completely stock, which I'm sure haven't been beated. And build the rear with a locker and gear to match the front.

I guess this could be almost fair in price.

As Eddie said before, what type of wheeling do you do? Does it require a locker? If you don't plan to go bigger then 35's why do you need to upgrade right now? Why not run your axle until you need to upgrade?

jeeeep · Apr 22, 2013

Holeshot said:
I'm not sold to these. I like the idea. The only other fair option I see, would be to get only a front D44, completely stock, which I'm sure haven't been beated. And build the rear with a locker and gear to match the front.

I guess this could be almost fair in price.

well, when you really think about it, they want $2800 plus your front and rear (approx. $1000) you're into those $3800 plus still have the cost of repairs.

Holeshot · Apr 22, 2013

Well, compared to many guys here, its moderate wheeling. Yes lockers are good to have, but never as necessary as you guys when running at moab and such trails. We don't have much rocky trails here.

I wanted to upgrade right now because of the deal, if you guys all tell me to pass it and wait, I beleive I'm too much in hurry and will take my time to get a better deal for a stock D44 or at least, in better shape.

Holeshot · Apr 22, 2013

jeeeep said:
well, when you really think about it, they want $2800 plus your front and rear (approx. $1000) you're into those $3800 plus still have the cost of repairs.

yup that sure. But I'm pretty sure I'll have a rough time trying to sell them. Mostly the D30.

Would need D44 front, upper bracket

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