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View Full Version : 2010 JKU Sahara Dana 30 Buildup, Would Like Some Input



RISC
04-06-2012, 04:57 AM
So I bought a 2010 JKU w/ 25k on the odo and by the beginning of next week will have $12k worth of upgrades installed.

BUT I think I put the cart before the horse.

I'll be running on 35's with 3.73 gears with the mighty D30 pulling duty up front.

Here's what I want to do and maybe someone can tell me how bwnefecial and much it will strengthen the D30 or if the is anything else I can do. Money is limited so a D44 is out of the question.

Upgrades:
Nitro 4.88 Gears Front & Back
Nitro Minor Rebuild Kit
RCV CroMo Dana 30 CV Axle - 30 Spline
OX Locker Dana 30 Locker - Air Actuated
Requisite Bearing & Shim Kit For 30 Spline Axles
Cryogen Both Gear Sets

So with that list is there anything else I could possibly do? This is a daily driver, will be on the beach more than anything but I don't know what the future holds (zombies, end of the world, that stuff). I will probably never rock crawl but I would have no problems with trails.

Thanks for any input.

O_M_Jeep
04-06-2012, 10:32 PM
If your not doing serious crawling the D30 is plenty tough, but if not crawling rock have you considered a true-trac instead of a full locker for less than half the price?

Mudbob
04-07-2012, 01:16 AM
If your not doing serious crawling the D30 is plenty tough, but if not crawling rock have you considered a true-trac instead of a full locker for less than half the price?

That should hold up just fine. heavy rock crawling or not. just be smart with the go pedal.

RISC
04-07-2012, 01:26 AM
This is my first Jeep build and while I have some mechanical knowledge I don't have enough to perform driveline repairs and such in the field, etc.

Warranty is another consideration, for me anyway. Most locker manufacturers require you run OE tires for the warranty.

I'll def. check out the tru-trac though. The OX got my attention because it's made in the USA, no warranty restrictions, and a manual unlocker if something goes wrong with air actuation.

RISC
04-07-2012, 01:31 AM
That should hold up just fine. heavy rock crawling or not. just be smart with the go pedal.

Yes. Easy on the lead pedal, that's a tough one but I got it.

Thx for the D30 input, I'd rather be safe than sorry with the build.

O_M_Jeep
04-07-2012, 05:35 AM
I'm guessing you have a JK that already has the high pinion 30 ?

RISC
04-07-2012, 03:33 PM
I'm guessing you have a JK that already has the high pinion 30 ?

It's running 3.73 right now and will go to 4.88 with the build list in the OP...by the end of next week it'll be on 35's.

I'm sure I could Bing/Google it though.

Nothing is bomb-proof but I'm shooting to make it as strong as possible without spending ~ $6k on a D44 swap...might even add a truss to the D30, haven't decided.

Eventually I'll swap out the rear axles...way down the road though.

O_M_Jeep
04-07-2012, 08:41 PM
I'm currently building a HP30 for my TJ, it has alloy shafts, motive gear 4:88s, true-trac, tube seals, spicer ball joints and timken unit bearings, its as strong as a Rubicon D44 now, if I put in evo sleeves it will be stronger, but even with my low pinion D30 I ran 33s with 4:10s on alloy shafts and did a lot of lvl 6 & 7 trails in Moab (for example Hells Revenge is a lvl 8) regularly, the D30 is way tougher than a lot of people think.

Also, for $6k you could get a rock-jock front D60 (too rich for my hobby lol but they are a nice day-dream)

Sorry, the point I was making is this, if your not building a purpose built rock crawler and your budget is limited, don't over-build what's already good quality reliable equipment. (Just an opinion)

To run 35"s start with good quality alloy shafts, and remember that a locker makes breaking a shaft easier and more likely.

RISC
04-07-2012, 10:48 PM
I'm currently building a HP30 for my TJ, it has alloy shafts, motive gear 4:88s, true-trac, tube seals, spicer ball joints and timken unit bearings, its as strong as a Rubicon D44 now, if I put in evo sleeves it will be stronger, but even with my low pinion D30 I ran 33s with 4:10s on alloy shafts and did a lot of lvl 6 & 7 trails in Moab (for example Hells Revenge is a lvl 8) regularly, the D30 is way tougher than a lot of people think.

Also, for $6k you could get a rock-jock front D60 (too rich for my hobby lol but they are a nice day-dream)

Sorry, the point I was making is this, if your not building a purpose built rock crawler and your budget is limited, don't over-build what's already good quality reliable equipment. (Just an opinion)

To run 35"s start with good quality alloy shafts, and remember that a locker makes breaking a shaft easier and more likely.

Good to know. At least I know I'm on the right track. I've got the money, not D60 money, but enough to cover my build. I just want the driveline out of the way. I'll never know where the JK will take me, I'm a disable vet going to college and I don't work. Now that my wife and pitbulls can travel comfortably to offroad destinations who knows where we'll end up (something I couldn't say about my Ford Raptor).

wayoflife
04-09-2012, 03:27 PM
well, in all fairness, the JK is no TJ and the extra weight does cause the axle c's to bend very easily when running bigger tires and puts a lot more strain on the axle shafts. sleeves are cheap insurance but far from necessary. c gussets are pretty much required and, running chromo shafts is what i would recommend if you plan on doing any hard wheeling especially if you're planning to install a locker. rcv's are nice but a set of standard chromo shafts will get the job done just as well and for a fraction of the price. as mentioned, i might recommend a true-trac over an ox.

O_M_Jeep
04-09-2012, 05:25 PM
I wasnt aware of the inner C issue, I knew the right side tube was a little weak from watching the welding job you did on the Rubicon (awesome video btw), it seems they (Jeep) also bolstered the rear axle with the shock towers on the JKs over the TJs too, is that right?