I feel privileged to be accosted by the Wayalife clique.

wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
The only issue with unlocking the front with the factory locker is at times it required moving the vehicle forward and back, at least mine did, to get it to disengage. So that may not be a good option for someone that is bound up making at turn while locked up on a bunch of rocks. If you’re running ARBs or similar it’s a great idea. I love the almost instantaneous ability to lock in and out as needed.




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jdofmemi

jdofmemi

Active Member
I have usually been able to get nine to unlock by steering the opposite direction a little, unless it is in a real bind.

I figure finess is usually better than brute force.
Now if I could just remember that more often 😖
 
J

JKDream

Guest
Can't really go wrong with any of the aftermarket tie rods from reputable manufactures.
WFO, Synergy, Fusion, Currie etc. Pick one that agrees with your wallet, you likely won't bend any of them anyway.
 
BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
soonrsfan said:
I might have misled you. My Jeep is not a mall crawler and I have broken parts in the mountains. That’s not fun. Plus it’s a jeep, aren’t you suppose to spend all your money on it? Lol


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Click to expand...
Lol. Just checking. 😎

What others have said are all good choices. I personally run the Currie CurrectLync tie rod and drag link and have been very happy with it.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
TrailHunter

TrailHunter

Hooked
BaddestCross said:
Lol. Just checking. 😎

What others have said are all good choices. I personally run the Currie CurrectLync tie rod and drag link and have been very happy with it.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...

Am I correct by saying with the Currie, you do not have to drill out the knuckle to 7/8" then add a tapered sleeve? But the other "beefier" tie rods, you will have to drill? So I guess my question is... does one really "Need" 1 Ton ends that require drilling of the knuckle?
 
BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
TrailHunter said:
Am I correct by saying with the Currie, you do not have to drill out the knuckle to 7/8" then add a tapered sleeve? But the other "beefier" tie rods, you will have to drill? So I guess my question is... does one really "Need" 1 Ton ends that require drilling of the knuckle?
Click to expand...
No drilling with the Currie unless you're going with a flipped drag link - which I do not run.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
TrailHunter

TrailHunter

Hooked
soonrsfan said:
I think I’m goin with the fusion 2.5 ton. One and done. Plus it says no drilling too


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Click to expand...

For what its worth, I’ve narrowed my search down to 4 Tie Rod choices..

1. Currectlync standard - $375
1.5” Tube
2. Currectlync Extreme Duty - $740
1.65” Chromoly
3. Fusion 2.5 - $550
1.75” Solid 7075 Aluminum
4. WFO 2.5 - $480
2” DOM .25 wall

All 4 don’t require drilling the knuckle. Currectlync standard uses a one piece rod/joint end which is $80 to replace.

The other 3 use the same Rod ends... The Joint Cartridge is also $80 and its modular so you don’t have to mess with length adjustment when replacing.

To me, the WFO is the best bang for the buck.. And also Exodus Jeeps is a forum sponsor that sells it.
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
TrailHunter said:
For what its worth, I’ve narrowed my search down to 4 Tie Rod choices..4. WFO 2.5 - $480
2” DOM .25 wall

To me, the WFO is the best bang for the buck.. And also Exodus Jeeps is a forum sponsor that sells it.
Click to expand...

Holy shit, a 2" dia tie rod on a Jeep? :shock: That's like a battering ram!

Can she handle that big of a rod?
 
C

Captain Ed

Member
WFO looks killer. What are you going to do for the draglink? Fusion would be my choice for both but Im still evaluating.
 
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