ARB Twin compressor help

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mastrcruse

New member
I've got it all wired up correctly. I've double checked and have verified. I am only running it for air, no lockers, so I only have the isolation switch. The compressor won't come on. Checked the grounds and they are well attached.

One question though that probably is the answer. Do I have to connect the red/yel and blu/wht for this to work? First I didn't think so if I didn't want it to be controlled by ignition or dim with my dash.
 

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The blue/white dimmer shouldn't have to be connected. Isn't the red/yellow ignition wire the power for the switch?
 
I don't have the twin, only the single but mine wouldn't come on either until I took it apart and released the brushes inside. I had checked with a probe tester that there was power going into the unit so knew it was wired up correctly. Had one brush that was stuck and I had to release the catch internally. Not sure how the twins are wired up together but maybe you've got the same issue if you can ensure there's power going into the compressor?

There was either a youtube video or forum thread that outlined it, I'll see if I can find it. Talked to ARB the next morning and they said it is somewhat common.
 
I'm not sure if the red/yel is the power to the switch. Can't find anything that says it has to be connect but maybe?
 
mastrcruse said:
I'm not sure if the red/yel is the power to the switch. Can't find anything that says it has to be connect but maybe?
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The red/yellow is the ignition/power source. If you hook it up to the 12v power outlet then you can turn the compressor on as long as the key is in
 
Thanks! So that one is definitely required. I've got it all hooked up except those two. I'm gonna run by the car audio place to have them hook those up. I don't trust myself with splicing into factory harnesses.
 
Has anyone ran Their ARB off of a rocker switch? I've got four switches three wired to lights so I was thinking I could use the one for the compressor.
 
Riley Moss said:
Has anyone ran Their ARB off of a rocker switch? I've got four switches three wired to lights so I was thinking I could use the one for the compressor.
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I'm away from home right now so I can't show you how to do it, but I can tell you that it is possible, mine is set up with a master and one for each locker solenoid.
 
I have mine running off of that **** evil power device. One switch for the compressor, and one for a solenoid. I didn't have to buy the **** adapter either, I'm not sure why they even sell it to be honest other than to take more of people's money.

I got creative with mine, and spliced into the wiring going to the solenoid rocker with a custom "arming" switch. I put it on the driver's side A-pillar, so nobody in the passenger seat can engage the locker solenoid switch without reaching over to the driver's side A-pillar and engaging the arming switch first (highway speeds and lockers frighten me, even in 2WD).

Both the "arming switch" and all the switches overhead are tied to the dimmer as well, regardless of what's activated.

Basically the compressor is wired with large power wires to battery, and the ignition wires for the compressor to the rocker 12v source (using the relay to start it). The solenoids on mine are wired completely independent to anything else, and have their own 12V rocker with the positive split so that you need two switches to complete the circuit. You obviously have to have the compressor switch on for a solenoid to have air behind it.

Note, the furthest out connection is the solenoid, and only one wire, positive is going to it. The 2nd furthest out (with the 30A fuse) is the compressor ignition wiring.
 

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mastrcruse said:
I've got it all wired up correctly. I've double checked and have verified. I am only running it for air, no lockers, so I only have the isolation switch. The compressor won't come on. Checked the grounds and they are well attached.

One question though that probably is the answer. Do I have to connect the red/yel and blu/wht for this to work? First I didn't think so if I didn't want it to be controlled by ignition or dim with my dash.
Click to expand...


Hey Mastcruse- i wonder if you got this resolved in the end- i am facing the exact same issue as you i have bought a new CKMA12 and have used all the standard wiring loom to connect everything- i too initially thought to leave the RED/YEL and BLUE/WHITE cables not connected initially just so i can check all works cause i want to install by arb switch on the driver side panel (2008JK 2DR)

I have placed all wiring nicely and reached everything to passenger side and before i started drilling i thought let me try this to see if it works- but no luck; so my question is (and i believe this could be the answer right there) does the RED YEL absolutely need to be connected or it wont work? If so for a 2008JK does anyone have a write up or an advice of what s the easiest way to connect this cable to the correct source? the lighter itself could pe a PITA coming in from the driver side- is there anything close to the driver side left hand side to be able to attach this to? alternatively can i connect this directly to battery if say i am ok not to use it with IGNITION ON?
 
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