2013 JKU sport

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joshw366

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So I'm planning a build this spring. I'd like to run 35's with a 3-4 inch lift kit. I've been reading as much as I can but this is my first JK/build I've ever done. I've had a WJ in the past but never did any mods. I'm planning on buying rims, tires, was leaning towards the Teraflex 3 inch lift kit w/control arms, a 4.88 regear. I'm not planning on too much wheeling as of yet... I live west of the Chicagoland area. I want to build my jeep right the first time but not completely break the bank. Im working with an initial budget of about 7 grand. Is it best to buy the gears, carrier, sleeve, gussets ...myself and find a shop to install it? What's reasonable? Can anyone recommend a shop in the Naperville/Aurora area? Any overall suggestions or advice is appreciated.IMG_1110.JPG


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Welcome to WAL. I have heard the Teraflex lift is a really harsh ride. As far as gears, if you aren't planning on wheeling much, I wouldn't worry about gears. I wouldn't worry about doing much with the axle for now either. Enjoy what you have for a little bit and go from there.
 
I'm not dead set on anything... I need at least 2-1/2 to 3 inches to accommodate the tires don't I? I've watched some different YouTube videos from Teraflex and thought they looked decent... What brand lift should I look into? I just wanted something better than the $500 Rough Country lift that seems to be popular on sites like Extremeterrain. As far as not doing a regear. I thought it would be a dog and make the transmission work harder on daily driving?


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joshw366 said:
I'm not dead set on anything... I need at least 2-1/2 to 3 inches to accommodate the tires don't I? I've watched some different YouTube videos from Teraflex and thought they looked decent... What brand lift should I look into? I just wanted something better than the $500 Rough Country lift that seems to be popular on sites like Extremeterrain. As far as not doing a regear. I thought it would be a dog and make the transmission work harder on daily driving?


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Teraflex makes good videos, so does Hollywood. Doesn't mean it's beneficial for you.
 
This is my first post and I'm not super tech savvy. I'm trying to figure out the site still. Thanks for the welcomes. It's easy to see how people can fall in love with this wayalife... It's easy to see how quick the cash adds up though too...


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joshw366 said:
I thought it would be a dog and make the transmission work harder on daily driving?
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Assuming it's auto, it will work harder.
If you have 3:21's which you likely do, you won't reach fifth.
I have a 13 as well, started off with 3:21's on 35's.
It would overheat on most inclines, and generally drove quite poorly.
 
I would lay out a build plan and then decide how you are going to execute.
By this I mean, if you are thinking of 37's in the future - build for 37's not 35's etc.
There's tons of information on forums, and can really help you in making solid choices.
 
joshw366 said:
I'm not dead set on anything... I need at least 2-1/2 to 3 inches to accommodate the tires don't I? I've watched some different YouTube videos from Teraflex and thought they looked decent... What brand lift should I look into? I just wanted something better than the $500 Rough Country lift that seems to be popular on sites like Extremeterrain. As far as not doing a regear. I thought it would be a dog and make the transmission work harder on daily driving?


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You can trim your fenders or buy some flat ones, put a leveling kit or budget boost on, and run 35s. No true lift required. If you want a different feel to how it rides, by all means run a 2.5" lift.

People say TF makes good videos. Dennis or what's his name just always seems a little odd to me.

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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
 
JKDream said:
I would lay out a build plan and then decide how you are going to execute.
By this I mean, if you are thinking of 37's in the future - build for 37's not 35's etc.
There's tons of information on forums, and can really help you in making solid choices.
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I wish I would of bought a Rubicon and started with the Dana 44 up front. 37's would be awesome, I mean go big or go home right? Can you run 37's on a regeared, sleeved, trussed, c-gusseted Dana 30? Or at that point is it better to just buy a 44?


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joshw366 said:
I wish I would of bought a Rubicon and started with the Dana 44 up front. 37's would be awesome, I mean go big or go home right? Can you run 37's on a regeared, sleeved, trussed, c-gusseted Dana 30? Or at that point is it better to just buy a 44?


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You can run 37s on a d30, but it's not ideal and you will likely break it eventually. If you're wheeling your Jeep hard enough to think you need all those extra axles mods, might as well upgrade the axle to a quality 44 like a ProRock. The ProRock specs far exceed an OEM 44 even.
 
joshw366 said:
I wish I would of bought a Rubicon and started with the Dana 44 up front. 37's would be awesome, I mean go big or go home right? Can you run 37's on a regeared, sleeved, trussed, c-gusseted Dana 30? Or at that point is it better to just buy a 44?


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You could always look into a rubicon take-off like I did.
I started with a 13 Sahara, swapped in a 44 and rubi tcase knowing I was going for 37's and built from there.
I went this route primarily due to the prices for a rubi in my country (60k+ new).
Paid $400 for the axle and $600 for the tcase.
If I lived in the US though I likely would have went ProRock.
 
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JKDream said:
You could always look into a rubicon take-off like I did.
I started with a 13 Sahara, swapped in a 44 and rubi tcase knowing I was going for 37's and built from there.
I went this route primarily due to the prices for a rubi in my country (60k+ new).
Paid $400 for the axle and $600 for the tcase.
If I lived in the US though I likely would have went ProRock.
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Your saying you found a 44 out of a salvaged or junk yard jeep? Because I just googled the prorock and complete it was 4400 hundred bucks....


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joshw366 said:
Your saying you found a 44 out of a salvaged or junk yard jeep? Because I just googled the prorock and complete it was 4400 hundred bucks....


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It sounds like you're assuming that any 44 is the same. An OEM Rubicon front 44 is not the same as a ProRock 44. ProRock is aftermarket and much stronger.
 
WJCO said:
It sounds like you're assuming that any 44 is the same. An OEM Rubicon front 44 is not the same as a ProRock 44. ProRock is aftermarket and much stronger.
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This. They are well worth the cash though.
The OE 44 has the same housing issues as your 30.
Mine was from a 15 that had flood damage.
I went this route knowing I would likely look into a prorock in the future, but it would last me a decent amount of time until I saved for an upgrade.
 
WJCO said:
It sounds like you're assuming that any 44 is the same. An OEM Rubicon front 44 is not the same as a ProRock 44. ProRock is aftermarket and much stronger.
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I've read up a little bit. I know the axles tubes and everything is built thicker but I don't honestly know much beyond that. I'm gonna guess your running the ProRock? If so how much did that swap cost you and do you have a picture of it on your jeep? Like I said earlier I'm working with about 7 grand which clearly isn't enough. I'm just looking for advice and this helpful. But yeah if finding a salvaged 44 was an option and I could then beef that axle up for half the cost of a ProRock I think I would have to contemplate it.


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joshw366 said:
I've read up a little bit. I know the axles tubes and everything is built thicker but I don't honestly know much beyond that. I'm gonna guess your running the ProRock? If so how much did that swap cost you and do you have a picture of it on your jeep? Like I said earlier I'm working with about 7 grand which clearly isn't enough. I'm just looking for advice and this helpful. But yeah if finding a salvaged 44 was an option and I could then beef that axle up for half the cost of a ProRock I think I would have to contemplate it.


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If you're really considering one, call Dynatrac to discuss options. They can answer all your questions. Also, if you haven't looked at their page yet, it is informative: https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/prorock-44-axle.html.

I am running a ProRock but a different animal. I'm running a WJ on 33s and the axle is overkill. When I decided to do the swap, I realized I only wanted to do it once which is why I went with the ProRock compared to anything else. Cost for me was way different than a jk, because I had no axles, no knuckles, no unit bearings, and no brakes to reuse. So it wasn't a straight bolt in. Plus I needed custom brake hoses, steering, and drive shaft. I also upgraded the shafts, brakes, and ball joints, and went with an ARB locker. Like I said contact Dynatrac as they can discuss all options with you.

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My advice is in order below.

Inner gusset c's, 4.88s and throw an elocker in the rear when regearing. Truss the front, but sleeves aren't worth the money IMO. You're looking at maybe $2k max for both axles. YMMV.

Buy an oil, tranny and evap skid - in importance order. I went rock hard and would repeat. Low priority on the gas tank skid.

Rear tire carrier and bumpers.

Keep your wheels for now.

If you find yourself needing more, then decide on the PR44 or tons.

Some shops get much better deals on parts than you ever will. If they are going to install them, might as well get a quote for both - supplying parts vs not.

This should run you about 3-4k tops. Pocket the rest for what you find you'll need after some wheeling experience.

Edit:. Forgot the lift info. I have a TF 4" lift and it's stiff. I have ridden in 3" Evo plush rides as well as a BDS and they are much softer. Most here bow to the EVO plush for good reason.
 
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If I had 7k, id like to start with gears, decent lift (Evo enforcer for me), wheels/ tires (stay in the 35 realm for now with a d30), rear tire carrier, winch front/ bumper, procal, and some sliders. Depending how much was left maybe a rear locker. Im still trying to piece meal my Sahara and Ive still had a lot of fun. 37's on a PR4r someday? Hell yeah but for 7k I think you could build a very fun and capable rig. Just my yhoughts on it.

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