Possible PR44/60 upgrade?

A

A+J ‘12 JKUR

New member
My fiancée and I have been tossing around the idea of upgrading the axles on our 2012 JKU Rubicon. Right now we’re running a 3.5” MetalCloak lift with 35s, but we’d like to step up to 37s and be able to run them confidently. I can say for sure we don’t plan on going any bigger than that.



We use our Jeep the way it was meant to be used – driving it hundreds of miles, hitting some challenging trails, and then driving it home the same weekend. We don’t trailer and don’t plan to. On the highway we take it slow and steady, and off road we don’t beat it too hard.



Before anyone suggests full-float 60s, I should mention we’re both in our mid-20s and don’t have $20k+ to drop on axles, wheels, steering, etc.



Right now I’m really liking the Dynatrac Serious Performance ProRock 44/60 axle set as a possible upgrade. It’s actually within reach for us financially, and I like the idea of running the ProRock 44 up front.



I’d love to hear what people with more experience would recommend. At the end of the day, we just want to keep having fun on the trails on the weekends and feel confident we’ll be back at work on Monday without breaking stuff.
 
DO NOT DO A SEMI FLOAT 60

Dumbest thing ever invented Ask me how I know. Throw a set of Chrome Moly axles in the 44 if you must and save up for a full float 60 if you think you'll ever need it. Keep in mind you're gonna need new wheels as well and there's no good conversion kit to go to 8 lugs on the 44 front, so now you're looking at a D60 front as well. It's a slippery slope.

If all you're going to is 37's those 44's will work fine. Add hydro steering and you're gold
 
ran my 2010 JKUR over 200k miles with stock rear axle and ProRock 44 front axle.

2018 JLUR still has both stock axles and 100k+miles

both with beadlocks and 37's, aftermarket drive shafts,CM axle shafts, lots of highway miles to and from trails.

pick good lines and bypass lines (when possible) if I feel damage will result otherwise easy on the throttle and pull line if needed.
 
A+J ‘12 JKUR said:
If I did a PR44 in the front and regeared the stock rubicon rear axle, should I beef them up with a truss or anything like that?
Click to expand...
The rear is a true 44 so a truss isn't needed unless you really wanted too. Other than maybe some Chromoly shafts, you will be good. Just know that you WILL still bend a rear axle flange whether it is chromoly or a 60, they will bend. The front PR44 will definitely be fine as is.
 
I too have been running 37s on my JKUR for years with stock axles. 5.13 gears. Revolution chromo shafts in the rear. Never been stranded.

I did weld synergy gussets on the front axle inner Cs…

Honestly PR44s fronts are nice, but I don’t really know what they unlock over a stock rubicon front with 44 shafts…

I guess the brackets are bigger. I’ve definitely added some weld to my stock LCA brackets over the years…

I’m also the guy who doesn’t mind throwing some weld here and there and doesn’t mind if my axle tubes are slightly bent off the center section, lol.

Tons and 40s+ are the only reason I would swap axles.
 
When i did some major upgrades 4 years ago with my budget topping out the only option for me was the serious performance 44/60 combo. I did a 392 and 8 speed so i figured the 44/60 would be good enough. I only planned on 37's so 4:88 and ARB lockers is how i optioned the set. The front 44 was upgraded with RCV's and I'm also running the tereflex delta big brakes. The front axle has been problem free.....

Now the ungood of the prorock 60 high pinion semi float rear... within i year the rear had eating itself , and the bummer was i didn't realize until after the warranty . The rear spun a carrier bearing tearing the ARB seal housing and ultimately ruining the ARB and the axle housing itself. Dynatrac did give me a deal on a replacement housing and i was able to warranty the ARB out. So I had to completely rebuild the rear only keeping the axle shafts.

The swap has a total of around 80k miles on it now and the replaced rear axle has about 60k ish, the rear ARB is burping gear oil up into the solenoids with tells me one of the seals may be leaking internally.

Like most of the previous comments say they would have gone to the XD full float option for the rear ... I am now seriously thinking about going to another brand like Currie or east coast gear supply because of the recent quality issues with Dynatrac . The XD60/60 combo or the 60/80 combo is probably where i should have gone for the power level im at .

good luck with your build
 
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