Driveshaft question

Ant's JK

New member
I'm just curious, what does it indicate when there is a slight oil leak coming from the driveshaft boot? What are the long term affects?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I'm just curious, what does it indicate when there is a slight oil leak coming from the driveshaft boot? What are the long term affects?

The long term effects is that your CV joint will fail. You should start looking into getting a new aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft. If this is a rear shaft, you will NEED adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion angle too.
 

Ant's JK

New member
Ok just making sure it's normal. I'll look into new shafts then, thanks for education on this issue. I also just realized I need to update my profile too I have a 4 door now
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Ok just making sure it's normal. I'll look into new shafts then, thanks for education on this issue. I also just realized I need to update my profile too I have a 4 door now

With a 3" or taller lift, your factory shafts will sit steep enough to cause the CV boots to be in a constant state of pinch. This will cause them to fail prematurely.
 

Ant's JK

New member
I see exactly what you mean now. Thank you, I'm looking into the JE Reel 1350 shafts well at least a front one for now
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Do you need a new drive shaft with less than a 3" lift?

Only IF you are running a 2012-up with shocks that offer too much droop. If so, your factory front drive shaft will tear its slip shaft boot on the exhaust cross over. You can run exhaust spacers to help prevent this but, it wouldn't be my first choice. You should be fine with your rear shaft being that you have a 4-door.
 

Jtmw

New member
With a 3" or taller lift, your factory shafts will sit steep enough to cause the CV boots to be in a constant state of pinch. This will cause them to fail prematurely.

I've always been curious what the failure is. Are we talking shaft falls out and pole vaults your Jeep into space or does it a break at the joint? Also as a 2 door with adj uppers and lowers in the rear will that prolong life for the rear? I understand it's going to fail, its just a matter of time but how much time. I've got a front DS in a shopping cart but getting front and rear might hurt me this month. Is it worth it to go ahead and address the front before the rear?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I've always been curious what the failure is. Are we talking shaft falls out and pole vaults your Jeep into space or does it a break at the joint? Also as a 2 door with adj uppers and lowers in the rear will that prolong life for the rear? I understand it's going to fail, its just a matter of time but how much time. I've got a front DS in a shopping cart but getting front and rear might hurt me this month. Is it worth it to go ahead and address the front before the rear?

With 3" of lift or more, your factory drive shaft CV boots will sit in a continuous state of pinch. Sooner than later, this will cause them to fail and once they do, the grease inside will evacuate leaving the bearings to fail. If you have a 2-door, this is especially true on the rear drive shaft. Sure, you can install adjustable rear upper control arms to help preserve your pinion side joint but, you output shaft side joint will still sit at a steep enough angle to cause failure there. Of course, this is just what I have seen over the last 8 years and you can take it for what it's worth.
 

Jtmw

New member
With 3" of lift or more, your factory drive shaft CV boots will sit in a continuous state of pinch. Sooner than later, this will cause them to fail and once they do, the grease inside will evacuate leaving the bearings to fail. If you have a 2-door, this is especially true on the rear drive shaft. Sure, you can install adjustable rear upper control arms to help preserve your pinion side joint but, you output shaft side joint will still sit at a steep enough angle to cause failure there. Of course, this is just what I have seen over the last 8 years and you can take it for what it's worth.

I appreicate it, Question for ya. Looks like I'm only going to be able to get 1 shaft at a time. Would you say get a rear shaft first and just pull the front while I wait?

Edit: My BO Coilovers are going on in two weeks-ish
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I appreicate it, Question for ya. Looks like I'm only going to be able to get 1 shaft at a time. Would you say get a rear shaft first and just pull the front while I wait?

Edit: My BO Coilovers are going on in two weeks-ish

Being that you have a 2013, I would get a front first being that you will tear your slip shaft boot on the exhaust cross over if you don't. Your rear shaft won't self-destruct just because you install a taller lift BUT, you should start saving for a replacement shaft and adjustable rear upper arms because you WILL need to replace it sooner than later.
 

Jtmw

New member
Being that you have a 2013, I would get a front first being that you will tear your slip shaft boot on the exhaust cross over if you don't. Your rear shaft won't self-destruct just because you install a taller lift BUT, you should start saving for a replacement shaft and adjustable rear upper arms because you WILL need to replace it sooner than later.

Exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks Eddie. Those eight years of experience are why I'm here at Wayalife. :thumb:
 

Ant's JK

New member
I know this is a bit late from the start of the thread but here are some pictures of the front shaft.
 

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