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Thread: Drive Shaft Question

  1. #11
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie_k View Post
    Yes, thank you for the tips. The damn thing is never ending. So, today I had the Metalcloak overlain fenders/flares installed. Not bad but with 35" tires it looks weird. Too much gap between the tires and the flares. I guess now I have to definitely upgrade to 37's. I have already had the C's done as well as the Synergy ball joints. I know some would say this is enough for 37's but I want to make sure my Jeep won't be hurting under all that strain, so I'll be doing the following:
    1. Cromo shafts
    2. Front drive shaft
    3. 5.13 gears.
    Should I replace the stock tire rod/drag link?
    If only Santa was real
    If you play on the rocks, you will bend your tie rod. Replacing it with a good HD unit would be a good investment. Running 37's, it'll take a lot more effort to steer when aired down and on big rocks with a lot of grip. Without a ram assist, you will most likely bend your drag link. Upgrading may help prevent this from happening but the better solution would be to install a ram assist.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rubicon310 View Post
    I believe a recommendation for 37's is also the truss the front.
    I wouldn't recommend it. Even if you don't bend your axle from installing a truss, you can still bend your weak factory axle housing. In my opinion, it's better to NOT throw any more money than you need at your factory axle and just save up for something like a ProRock 44. Being that the OP has a Rubicon, he can swap all the internals from it to a ProRock and make the upgrade for a lot less money.

  2. #12
    Knows a Thing or Two Edwrds's Avatar
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    Drive Shaft Question

    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    I believe the drive shaft that comes with the Mopar kit is just a 1310. Depending on how hard you play, it might be all that you need. If they're charging you for it, I might recommend that you shop around.


    They are not charging me for the driveline all they are waiting for is the ok from there engineer that's it's ok for them run it in my Jeep. Liability issues. The service manager told me that they installed the driveline in my jeep and drove it with no issues. So I'm pretty much on standby waiting for a call back from them. The 1310 will still be better than my stock driveline? I'm planning on upgrading to a 1350 in the future it's all about the $$$


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    Last edited by Edwrds; 12-10-2016 at 01:03 AM.
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  3. #13
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwrds View Post
    They are not charging me for the driveline all they are waiting for is the ok from there engineer that's it's ok for them run it in my Jeep. Liability issues. The service manager told me that they installed the driveline in my jeep and drove it with no issues. So I'm pretty much on standby waiting for a call back from them. The 1310 will still be better than my stock driveline? I'm planning on upgrading to a 1350 in the future it's all about the $$$

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    Okay, if they aren't going to charge you, I'd take it and be super thankful to them for helping you out. Technically, a 1310 is smaller than the one 1330 that on the factory shaft but it should hold up okay or at least until you can afford to upgrade to a 1350 and it'll solve problems that you were having.

  4. #14
    Fresh Catch Eddie_k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    If you play on the rocks, you will bend your tie rod. Replacing it with a good HD unit would be a good investment. Running 37's, it'll take a lot more effort to steer when aired down and on big rocks with a lot of grip. Without a ram assist, you will most likely bend your drag link. Upgrading may help prevent this from happening but the better solution would be to install a ram assist.



    I wouldn't recommend it. Even if you don't bend your axle from installing a truss, you can still bend your weak factory axle housing. In my opinion, it's better to NOT throw any more money than you need at your factory axle and just save up for something like a ProRock 44. Being that the OP has a Rubicon, he can swap all the internals from it to a ProRock and make the upgrade for a lot less money.
    Good point.


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  5. #15
    Knows a Thing or Two Edwrds's Avatar
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    Drive Shaft Question

    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    Okay, if they aren't going to charge you, I'd take it and be super thankful to them for helping you out. Technically, a 1310 is smaller than the one 1330 that on the factory shaft but it should hold up okay or at least until you can afford to upgrade to a 1350 and it'll solve problems that you were having.
    So pretty much I just won't have to worry about tearing the cv boot anymore with the 1310.


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    Last edited by Edwrds; 12-10-2016 at 02:34 AM.
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwrds View Post
    So pretty much I just won't have to worry about tearing the cv boot anymore.


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    Won't have to worry about tearing the slip shat boot and more importantly, you won't have to worry about your CV boot failing.


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  7. #17
    Knows a Thing or Two Edwrds's Avatar
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    Drive Shaft Question

    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    Won't have to worry about tearing the slip shat boot and more importantly, you won't have to worry about your CV boot failing.


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    So how important is the slip shat boot? The front was ok just the cv was torn. On my rear driveline that boot has some little holes in it. Looks like it has been rubbing on the evap.
    Looks like I know what my next upgrades will be

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  8. #18
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwrds View Post
    So how important is the slip shat boot? The front was ok just the cv was torn. On my rear driveline that boot has some little holes in it. Looks like it has been rubbing on the evap.


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    Not as important as the CV boot. Over time, if you leave the shat without a boot, it will start to seize up and that will cause the CV to go bad. Trust me, I've seen it.


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  9. #19
    Knows a Thing or Two Edwrds's Avatar
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    Drive Shaft Question

    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    Not as important as the CV boot. Over time, if you leave the shat without a boot, it will start to seize up and that will cause the CV to go bad. Trust me, I've seen it.


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    Seems like Ive been spending more time correcting things lately than enjoying my Jeep.
    Thank you for your help Eddie.

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