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Thread: Trail Ready Beadlock Wheels Installation Write-Up

  1. #21
    Addict Ddays's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guascone View Post
    Thanks for the answer!

    Method wheels are threaded on the aluminium? Right?
    I can't tell for sure from their install page but it looks like they may thread directly into the aluminum. Maybe someone with experience with their wheels can answer this one.

  2. #22
    Been Around the Block Guascone's Avatar
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    thanks again!

  3. #23
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cozdude View Post
    The inner bead is held in by a huge outer lip and a huge inner lip to keep it from popping off. It's a both to pop by hand and that's why eddie takes them to a tire shop to dismount the inner bead.

    You can kinda see on my chamber pros the large inner lip
    Got it. Thanks.
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  4. #24
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanktitan View Post
    Thanks for the write up. Just curious what the wheel set weighed?
    Sorry, never weighed them but if I recall, they weigh about 30 lbs. each.

    Quote Originally Posted by Benito View Post
    if these were mounted on ATX slabs/Chamber Pros would there be a gap between the ring and wheel since those wheels don't have spacers? what about the 37" coopers on ATX wheels? are the spacers absolutely necessary, or could you tighten the bolts down enough to close the gap?
    Quote Originally Posted by cozdude View Post
    I believe the spacer is a trail ready and method wheel thing only. Those are the only two I have seen the spacers used on.

    But yes my 37" coopers and chamber pros are clamped nice and tight
    What cozdude said, to the best of my knowledge, the spacers are a Trail Ready and Method wheel thing. They are NOT needed on an ATX wheel to close the gap.

    Quote Originally Posted by mastrcruse View Post
    How do you tell if you need the spacers? I have trail readys and probably gonna go with trail Grapplers 40-13.5. Thanks! This is very helpful to me since I'm new to beadlocks!
    As you're tightening your rings down, you may see it deform in a conical shape a bit as in, the edge making contact with the tire sits higher and the edge inside the wheel dips downward. This is TOTALLY NORMAL however, IF you get to this point and you're already getting up to 20 ft. lbs. of torque and still have a BIG gap, you need to install the spacers.

  5. #25
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WJCO View Post
    Although I doubt I'll ever run beadlocks, I still love seeing this stuff. Great write-up. Question I've always wondered: What keeps the tire from not coming off the inboard side? I understand the outer side being clamped, but what about the inner bead?
    As Steve pointed out, there is a lip that bead must be seated on. You can see in this pic that I am using pry bars to get the bead on.



    Quote Originally Posted by Guascone View Post
    I have two questions...:

    -How can I recognize when it's mandatory to use a spacer on a wheel?

    -Are the bolt thread directly made on the aluminium or are there some metallic insert?

    Thanks!
    Again, as you're tightening your rings down, you may see it deform in a conical shape a bit as in, the edge making contact with the tire sits higher and the edge inside the wheel dips downward. This is TOTALLY NORMAL however, IF you get to this point and you're already getting up to 20 ft. lbs. of torque and still have a BIG gap, you need to install the spacers.

    Also, the bolts thread directly into the aluminum and that's why tightening to the proper torque is so necessary.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ddays View Post
    When you get started with the rings and see how big that gap is between the ring and wheel you'll swear there is no way in hell that they will ever clamp together. They will, it just takes a while. You have to keep chasing the bolts in a circle until they do. Never mounted anything but Coopers but they have one monster of a bead. Not sure how they compare to Nitto's though.

    Not sure about the spacer but the ring bolts thread into steel inserts in the wheel.
    The Coopers are thicker than Nitto's. Also, ATX uses steel inserts but so far I could see, there weren't any on the Trail Ready wheels.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guascone View Post
    Thanks for the answer!

    Method wheels are threaded on the aluminium? Right?
    Quote Originally Posted by Ddays View Post
    I can't tell for sure from their install page but it looks like they may thread directly into the aluminum. Maybe someone with experience with their wheels can answer this one.
    I believe so.

  6. #26
    Been Around the Block Guascone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    As Steve pointed out, there is a lip that bead must be seated on. You can see in this pic that I am using pry bars to get the bead on.





    Again, as you're tightening your rings down, you may see it deform in a conical shape a bit as in, the edge making contact with the tire sits higher and the edge inside the wheel dips downward. This is TOTALLY NORMAL however, IF you get to this point and you're already getting up to 20 ft. lbs. of torque and still have a BIG gap, you need to install the spacers.

    Also, the bolts thread directly into the aluminum and that's why tightening to the proper torque is so necessary.



    The Coopers are thicker than Nitto's. Also, ATX uses steel inserts but so far I could see, there weren't any on the Trail Ready wheels.





    I believe so.
    Thanks for your explanation!
    I was worried because I seen on my wheels that tightening the bolt the ring has assumed a conic shape...anyway after the bolt has reach the right torque the ring was in contact with the wheel...

  7. #27
    Old Timer JeepJeep75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WJCO View Post
    Although I doubt I'll ever run beadlocks, I still love seeing this stuff. Great write-up. Question I've always wondered: What keeps the tire from not coming off the inboard side? I understand the outer side being clamped, but what about the inner bead?
    The inside bead of the tire just seats down in the inner part of the rim, like a normal tire. Only the outside bead gets clamped.
    Quote Originally Posted by Guascone View Post
    I have two questions...:

    -How can I recognize when it's mandatory to use a spacer on a wheel?

    -Are the bolt thread directly made on the aluminium or are there some metallic insert?

    Thanks!
    Only the TrailReady beadlocks use the extra shims for the outer locking bead. And yes, all of the bolts that clamp the ring onto the rim thread into a threaded insert that is replaceable. As far as I know, all beadlock wheels use a threaded insert for the ring bolts.


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  8. #28
    Been Around the Block Guascone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guascone View Post
    Thanks for your explanation!
    I was worried because I seen on my wheels that tightening the bolt the ring has assumed a conic shape...anyway after the bolt has reach the right torque the ring was in contact with the wheel...
    ...I forgot...when I have to replace the tire, should I also replace the ring due to the conical deformation?


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  9. #29
    Old Timer TrainWreck618's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepJeep75 View Post

    And yes, all of the bolts that clamp the ring onto the rim thread into a threaded insert that is replaceable. As far as I know, all beadlock wheels use a threaded insert for the ring bolts.


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
    Trail Ready beadlocks do not have threaded inserts.


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  10. #30
    Old Timer TrainWreck618's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guascone View Post
    ...I forgot...when I have to replace the tire, should I also replace the ring due to the conical deformation?


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
    I'm pretty sure Trail Ready recommends changing the ring when replacing the tires.


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