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Thread: Replacing Passanger HUB every 6 months

  1. #1
    Addict jeeeep's Avatar
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    Replacing Passanger HUB every 6 months

    Need some ideas on what might be causing my passenger side HUB to wear out so fast.

    I've now replaced it 4 times at about 6 month intervals.

    My dash ABS, EPS lit up on my way back from New Mexico @80-85mph- thought it might be clock-spring since cruise control stopped working.

    Once I got home I was back on freeway again the following day @65-70mph

    I felt a slight wobble on my way home and when I made the turn onto my street I heard the scraping sound.

    Jacked it up and the passenger side was so loose it took no effort to move the wheel with one hand...like a very loose tooth

    Axle is PR44, I don't think it's bent. I think I would have other issues if it were?

    Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.

    Rancho knuckles.

    Luckily the hubs have been replaced under warranty but it's too suspicious that it's only the passenger side and at about every 6 months.

    I feel incredibly lucky that I didn't loose that wheel considering the speeds I was traveling at.

  2. #2
    Resident Smartass OverlanderJK's Avatar
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    I am in a similar situation. I just put in timkins so we will see.


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  3. #3
    Addict JKbrick's Avatar
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    You may have to go with a spindle with tapered bearings and lock out hubs possibly


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  4. #4
    Addict Ddays's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKbrick View Post
    You may have to go with a spindle with tapered bearings and lock out hubs possibly


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    I seriously am toying with this idea. Mostly based on a longevity standpoint of not having all of the front end components spinning constantly. Pretty expen$ive tho...

  5. #5
    Addict wjtstudios's Avatar
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    You’re referring to the spyntec hubs? Pricey but they look well built. It would be interesting to hear from someone with experience with them.


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  6. #6
    Nothing but a Thing Speedy_RCW's Avatar
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    You also have to go to 5x5.5 pattern and get your rotors machined to accept the change.


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  7. #7
    Addict wjtstudios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy_RCW View Post
    You also have to go to 5x5.5 pattern and get your rotors machined to accept the change.


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    Correct, new wheels, brakes, 5 on 5.5 rear shafts. It’s a Pandora’s box. Thats probably why we haven’t seen anyone post up with them yet. But it’s interesting


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    2015 JKU Rubicon AEV JK350
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  8. #8
    Nothing but a Thing Benito's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeeeep View Post
    Need some ideas on what might be causing my passenger side HUB to wear out so fast.

    I've now replaced it 4 times at about 6 month intervals.

    My dash ABS, EPS lit up on my way back from New Mexico @80-85mph- thought it might be clock-spring since cruise control stopped working.

    Once I got home I was back on freeway again the following day @65-70mph

    I felt a slight wobble on my way home and when I made the turn onto my street I heard the scraping sound.

    Jacked it up and the passenger side was so loose it took no effort to move the wheel with one hand...like a very loose tooth

    Axle is PR44, I don't think it's bent. I think I would have other issues if it were?

    Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.

    Rancho knuckles.

    Luckily the hubs have been replaced under warranty but it's too suspicious that it's only the passenger side and at about every 6 months.

    I feel incredibly lucky that I didn't loose that wheel considering the speeds I was traveling at.
    I was running into the exact same issue until the unit bearing finally failed on me with almost no sign, a combination of bad roads and having hydro assist. I was traveling and was pulling off the highway to get gas. My brakes went to the floor but I was able to build pressure again to stop. the unit bearing was screeching and whining as I was slowing down, i was able to make it to an autozone and they had one in stock, I also had to replace the brake pads. I was replacing them with timken unit bearings, the one that failed was a timken.

    IMG_3798.jpg

    I just don’t think the unit bearings can handle the 37s. I was also running a PR44/ProSteers/highsteer knuckles.

  9. #9
    Addict Ddays's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy_RCW View Post
    You also have to go to 5x5.5 pattern and get your rotors machined to accept the change.


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    Quote Originally Posted by wjtstudios View Post
    Correct, new wheels, brakes, 5 on 5.5 rear shafts. It’s a Pandora’s box. Thats probably why we haven’t seen anyone post up with them yet. But it’s interesting


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    Aaaaand there-in lies the biggest rub. It's a shitload of parts to replace to gain some longevity. I don't know that it'd be worth it in the long run. Rear shafts shouldn't be an issue but I'd have to re-drill the rotors to the 5x5.5 (Dynatrac already said that's no problem) new wheels would be the biggest deal. Christ if I bought another set of wheels I'd probably get skinned.

  10. #10
    Addict Ddays's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benito View Post
    I was running into the exact same issue until the unit bearing finally failed on me with almost no sign, a combination of bad roads and having hydro assist. I was traveling and was pulling off the highway to get gas. My brakes went to the floor but I was able to build pressure again to stop. the unit bearing was screeching and whining as I was slowing down, i was able to make it to an autozone and they had one in stock, I also had to replace the brake pads. I was replacing them with timken unit bearings, the one that failed was a timken.

    IMG_3798.jpg

    I just don’t think the unit bearings can handle the 37s. I was also running a PR44/ProSteers/highsteer knuckles.
    I started changing mine yearly now because of this potential.

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