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Thread: Are evo King 2.0 spec worth it?

  1. #11
    Addict wjtstudios's Avatar
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    Living in a salt bath, I can attest to the damage salt does to the kings. I cleared all mine before I installed them, the fronts have held up well, but the rear did not. The clear was blasted off with in the first couple months and the main shock body has corroded. But, aside from the finish issues the kings have been great. I don’t bomb across the desert with them, but I do run a lot of gravel roads and dirt roads for miles and they made a huge difference for me.


    2015 JKUR AEV JK350
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    2015 JKU Rubicon AEV JK350
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  2. #12
    Knows a Thing or Two Recurve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjtstudios View Post
    Living in a salt bath, I can attest to the damage salt does to the kings. I cleared all mine before I installed them, the fronts have held up well, but the rear did not. The clear was blasted off with in the first couple months and the main shock body has corroded. But, aside from the finish issues the kings have been great. I don’t bomb across the desert with them, but I do run a lot of gravel roads and dirt roads for miles and they made a huge difference for me.


    2015 JKUR AEV JK350
    1985 CJ8 Scrambler

    Funny I literally did the same thing with my kings , hoping I could combat the rust . Nope salt ate up the clear pretty quick that rusted the crap out of the shocks with in the 1st winter.
    Sucks seeing such pretty shocks get ugly fast.
    I always felt they were popular for desert racers/crawlers, with that said they probably don’t get much complaints about rust.
    If I lived in a dry climate , I would be all about Kings.
    Sadly I live in salt infested slush every winter.


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  3. #13
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    Thats what I was thinking about doing. Throwing a couple coats of clear on them and then wd40 them ever so often. That's what I do with the bumpers and underbody.

  4. #14
    Nothing but a Thing Slimebones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiseguy127 View Post
    Thats what I was thinking about doing. Throwing a couple coats of clear on them and then wd40 them ever so often. That's what I do with the bumpers and underbody.
    Or "used motor oil"!!

  5. #15
    Hooked bholder817's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slimebones View Post
    Or "used motor oil"!!
    At least use the used motor oil in the frame!


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  6. #16
    Been Around the Block JDDK's Avatar
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    beat me to it
    Quote Originally Posted by bholder817 View Post
    At least use the used motor oil in the frame!


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  7. #17
    Addict Ddays's Avatar
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    The only way to keep the aluminum in good shape would be to have them hard anodized - like the process that Bubba has done on his 7075 Tie rods. This alters the surface of the aluminum so that it will not corrode. We tried to have this done on my rear CO's I sent him for rebuilding but for some reason the coater he uses couldn't do it.
    I would suspect that in order to have this done the shocks would have to be completely disassembled and the bare shock bodies and reservoirs would have to be sent. King does offer anodizing but I believe this is a cosmetic process that differs from the hard anodizing process.
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  8. #18
    Nothing but a Thing desertrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiseguy127 View Post
    Ok so rust is definitely a problem here in Illinois. So if I buy shocks for a 4 inch lift i shouldn't have any problems. Then I could also consider buying 4 inch for the front and 2.5 for the rear and get the evo rockstar skids and raise them up and out of the way. Also sorta confused cause I thought you should buy the springs for the lift. Nothing longer or shorter.
    Yes this is true but really it's all about the actual measurements of the sock. Making sure the spring doesn't come loose at full droop or your not collapsing the shock before bump stop or making the spring solid. For example I am running Evo 2" plush rides up front (on a 2dr) but I'm running a rancho shock that's listed for a 4" lift. But I cycled my suspension a ton and measured it out exactly what lengths I need and the 4" one fit..... So yes in theory you should buy shocks meant for the lift range you have but even a shock made for a 4" lift could work with a 3" lift as well as long as the measurements work out.

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  9. #19
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    Yea I should be fine. Just have to make the decision by tonight before the sales end.

  10. #20
    Word Ninja Sharkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ddays View Post
    The only way to keep the aluminum in good shape would be to have them hard anodized - like the process that Bubba has done on his 7075 Tie rods.

    ...
    I call bullshit. There is another way. MOVE!
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