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Thread: High steer with ultimate dana 60.

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    LOSER jeeper52's Avatar
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    High steer with ultimate dana 60.

    Hi guys i have the UD 60 front axle on my jeep and im wanting to do high steer to get a little more clearance for my tie rod and psc ram. The axle came stock with the high steer arm already mounted for the drag link. Can i just drill out the top of the high steer arm with a reamer and mount the drag link on the top and then do the same with the tierod drilling out the knuckle mounts to then flip the tie rod? If so does anyone know what size reamer to use? The draglink and tie rod are made by Synergy. Here is where they sitting now
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    Nothing but a Thing highoctane's Avatar
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    When I looked at my UD60 axles in the crate, I did see that they have the flat top on the driver side knuckle to accommodate a high steer arm. I looked at the possibility of buying a set of the blank (un-drilled) Dynatrac high steer arms and having them drilled and installed, so that I can run the Evo D60 high steer kit on the UD60 from axle. Seems the Dynatrac arms would work, but it would be a custom job and require the measuring and drilling of the arms and driver side knuckle, and a custom length tie rod and drag link to make work, since the UD60 axles are 69" and the typical high steer kit used on something like a Dynatrac axle would not work, since they are 68.5" wide. Wouldn't be easy, but wouldn't be hard either with the right skills or shop doing the work. So I imagine it wouldn't be hard to do what you are looking to do.
    Last edited by highoctane; 01-21-2016 at 02:06 AM.
    2015 Anvil Rubicon Unlimited
    Evo Mfg Double Throwdown suspension w/Evo Lever
    Evo Mfg high clearance long arms
    Evo Mfg PR60 high steer w/PSC hydraulic assist
    Dynatrac ProRock XD60 front axle
    Dynatrac ProRock 80 rear axle
    ARB lockers & 5.38 gears
    JE Reel 1350 front/1410 rear driveshafts
    Evo Mfg rocker/corner armor/bumper
    17" ATX Slabs & 40" Nitto Mud Grapplers


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  3. #3
    Nothing but a Thing Grubbicon's Avatar
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    High steer with ultimate dana 60.

    Might be a challenge to find but you can probably find a machine shop to machine your other knuckle to accept a high steer arm. I have no clue what those knuckles look like though. You can run the draglink on top and the tierod on the bottom. Thats what I have planned for my build.

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    LOSER jeeper52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highoctane View Post
    When I looked at my UD60 axles in the crate, I did see that they have the flat top on the driver side knuckle to accommodate a high steer arm. I looked at the possibility of buying a set of the blank (un-drilled) Dynatrac high steer arms and having them drilled and installed, so that I can run the Evo D60 high steer kit on the UD60 from axle. Seems the Dynatrac arms would work, but it would be a custom job and require the measuring and drilling of the arms and driver side knuckle, and a custom length tie rod and drag link to make work, since the UD60 axles are 69" and the typical high steer kit used on something like a Dynatrac axle would not work, since they are 68.5" wide. Wouldn't be easy, but wouldn't be hard either with the right skills or shop doing the work. So I imagine it wouldn't be hard to do what you are looking to do.
    Is it a bad idea to flip the tierod and run it on the top instead on the bottom of the mount? Also if i flip the drag link to the top of the steering mount would it hit my frame at full bump?

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    Nothing but a Thing Grubbicon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper52 View Post
    Is it a bad idea to flip the tierod and run it on the top instead on the bottom of the mount? Also if i flip the drag link to the top of the steering mount would it hit my frame at full bump?
    It is possible that the drag link could contact the frame, but it is fairly common to notch the frame so they dont contact each other.

  6. #6
    Nothing but a Thing highoctane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper52 View Post
    Is it a bad idea to flip the tierod and run it on the top instead on the bottom of the mount? Also if i flip the drag link to the top of the steering mount would it hit my frame at full bump?
    By doing that without raising the track bar mount on the axle, you'll have the track bar and drag link at two different angles, which will give you bump steer. Only way to see if a flipped drag link would contact the frame would be to cycle the suspension to full up and measure the distance from the frame to the top of the passenger side high steer rod. If that distance is greater than the thickness of your drag link joint/rod end, you should be fine. If not, you'll have to notch the frame.
    Last edited by highoctane; 01-21-2016 at 02:53 AM.
    2015 Anvil Rubicon Unlimited
    Evo Mfg Double Throwdown suspension w/Evo Lever
    Evo Mfg high clearance long arms
    Evo Mfg PR60 high steer w/PSC hydraulic assist
    Dynatrac ProRock XD60 front axle
    Dynatrac ProRock 80 rear axle
    ARB lockers & 5.38 gears
    JE Reel 1350 front/1410 rear driveshafts
    Evo Mfg rocker/corner armor/bumper
    17" ATX Slabs & 40" Nitto Mud Grapplers


    Proud to be one of Uncle Sam's Misguided Children 2001 - 2010. Semper Fi




  7. #7
    LOSER jeeper52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highoctane View Post
    By doing that without raising the track bar mount on the axle, you'll have the track bar and drag link at two different angles, which will give you bump steer. Only way to see if a flipped drag link would contact the frame, would be to cycle the suspension to full up and measure the distance from the frame to the top of the passenger side high steer rod. If that distance is greater than the thickness of your drag link, you should be fine. If not, you'll have to notch the frame.
    Yeah that makes since. I do have an adjustable track bar mount so i can raise if need be. Are there any draw backs or issues that i may run into flipping the tie rod to the top?

  8. #8
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    At least for the WJ with the OEM D30, there are some kits and instructions out there. You have to drill out the knuckle and install some inserts. I believe the inserts just have a reverse taper for the tie rod ends. Not sure if they make them for the D60. I have considered it myself, but am still a little leary of drilling into the knuckle. Steering it kind of important, I would hate to f it up.
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  9. #9
    Nothing but a Thing highoctane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeeper52 View Post
    Yeah that makes since. I do have an adjustable track bar mount so i can raise if need be. Are there any draw backs or issues that i may run into flipping the tie rod to the top?
    As for flipping the tie rod, it might work if there is enough room without the tie rod end contacting the drag link end or drag link end stud/nut. I've seen the tie rod flipped to the top on a UD60 axle, but it was not a standard tie rod, it was a custom straight tie rod with 7/8 heim joints.
    2015 Anvil Rubicon Unlimited
    Evo Mfg Double Throwdown suspension w/Evo Lever
    Evo Mfg high clearance long arms
    Evo Mfg PR60 high steer w/PSC hydraulic assist
    Dynatrac ProRock XD60 front axle
    Dynatrac ProRock 80 rear axle
    ARB lockers & 5.38 gears
    JE Reel 1350 front/1410 rear driveshafts
    Evo Mfg rocker/corner armor/bumper
    17" ATX Slabs & 40" Nitto Mud Grapplers


    Proud to be one of Uncle Sam's Misguided Children 2001 - 2010. Semper Fi




  10. #10
    LOSER jeeper52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by highoctane View Post
    As for flipping the tie rod, it might work if there is enough room without the tie rod end contacting the drag link end or drag link end stud/nut. I've seen the tie rod flipped to the top on a UD60 axle, but it was not a standard tie rod, it was a custom straight tie rod with 7/8 heim joints.
    Thanks for all the info. Just incase, where would one go to get a custom tie rod?

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