locking hubs
- Thread starter bl17z90
- Start date
StrizzyChris
New member
so essentially they disconnect the front wheels in a 4wd vehicle from the axle shafts. If you break something in the carrier, say an R&P, you can simply place the t-case in 2high, turn the lockout hugs to off, and you are wheeling in a truely 2wd mode and nothing is spinning in the front axle.
In a Jeep the axle shaft is fixed to the wheel and into the carrier. If you break something, even if you have the t-case in 2wd, the axle shafts are spinning. In most cases you will be require to make a trail repair to get yourself off the trail even under 2wd.
In a Jeep the axle shaft is fixed to the wheel and into the carrier. If you break something, even if you have the t-case in 2wd, the axle shafts are spinning. In most cases you will be require to make a trail repair to get yourself off the trail even under 2wd.
rinkishjk
New member
U would need a front hub conversion. Chris is selling his spyntec setup, but u will also need new wheels as I'm pretty sure the bolt pattern is 5x5.5....
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=7530
Solid Axle spyntec hub conversion,
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=7530
Solid Axle spyntec hub conversion,
Last edited:
As is, your front axle shafts and drive shaft spin all the time as they are all connected. Manual locking hubs allow you to unlock your front wheels from the rest of the drive train and in addition to allowing you to keep on going even if broken, they are typically stronger if for no other reason than the fact they are often bigger than a standard unit bearing setup. Also, while it may not be much, there would be less drag when unlocked and that should provide slightly better MPG. As mentioned, they would require a conversion to a 5x5.5 wheel setup and are quite expensive. Not worth it in my opinion unless you're going with a 60.