1350 Flang Bolt T-case Shifter Linkage Contact

jesse3638

Active Member
As I posted in the "What Was Done to Your Rig This Week" thread I installed my new 1350 front DS last weds. When I pulled forward in 4H all was good. I went to shift back into 2H and when I did the shift levet began jumping. Upon inspection I discovered the CV flange bolt heads were contacting the T-case shifter linkage. I've heard where the the CV contacts the part that holds the shift cable and one of the ears needs to be trimmed but not this. I'm asking if anyone else has had the issue I'm experiencing and if you did what was your fix? I plan on calling my driveline shop tomorrow to see if he's heard of this and what a suggested fix would be. I've got a couple ideas and I'll list them below. I've also attached pics so you can see what I'm referring to. The 1350 t-case flange is the same length as my old 1310 t-case yoke. The larger diameter of the flange is the problem.

1. Grind enough of the shift linkage away so the bolt heads clear.
2. Weigh the flange bolts and cut the heads down to clear, keeping their weights as close as possible. (Grind the shifter linkage if needed)
3. Purchase standard grade 8 bolts with lock washers like on a 1310. (Grind the shifter linkage if needed)
4. Install the driveshaft bolts in reverse, however the CV flsnge is threaded and I'm not sure if the threads on the t-case flange would line up correctly allowing for the mating surfaces to sit flush and bolt torque be applied correctly.
5. Drill out the threads in the CV to allow the bolts to be installed in reverse and ensure the mating surfaces sit flush and bolt torque applied correctly.

Just looking for the overall safest and strongest option. Thanks for your help.

20201125_160746.jpg 20201126_095539.jpg

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JKbrick

Active Member
Option 4 is what I would do if it were mine I believe. I’m surprised both parts are threaded, typically one is one is not if I’m not mistaken. Then use red loctite too


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jesse3638

Active Member
Option 4 is what I would do if it were mine I believe. I’m surprised both parts are threaded, typically one is one is not if I’m not mistaken. Then use red loctite too


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The T-case flange had 8 holes, 4 threaded and 4 non-threaded. In the picture the bolts are going through the non-threaded holes into the threaded holes of the CV flange. Yesh i was going to mess around wifh it and see how that lines up.

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pop2tu

Member
I kind of like option 3. But I don’t have any experience with this. But I will be putting my 1350 DS in soon and my run into same issues. So I will be watching this close


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fiend

Caught the Bug
I’d try option 3, if they are lower profile and clear.


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TrailHunter

Hooked
Ok my CV flange has threads as well as the t-case flange. That is the concern I have that I may not get the surfaces to mate properly or the correct torque applied to the bolts.

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Got it... that is weird. Maybe drill out the CV holes... seems to be the easiest solution. Maybe first call whoever built it and ask why they did that.
 

jesse3638

Active Member
Got it... that is weird. Maybe drill out the CV holes... seems to be the easiest solution. Maybe first call whoever built it and ask why they did that.
I think they can't be built either way. I've watched some videos online and they seem to be built the same way. However, they don't seem to be having the contact issues I have. I do plan on calling the driveline shop this morning.

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TrailHunter

Hooked
I think they can't be built either way. I've watched some videos online and they seem to be built the same way. However, they don't seem to be having the contact issues I have. I do plan on calling the driveline shop this morning.

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I’m going to pull one of the bolts when I get home and confirm they are not threaded on the CV. Pretty sure I would have been hesitant if it was... but now I’m unsure.
 

jesse3638

Active Member
I’m going to pull one of the bolts when I get home and confirm they are not threaded on the CV. Pretty sure I would have been hesitant if it was... but now I’m unsure.
I wouldn't be concerned. I just looked at an Adam's DS video and their CV flange is not threaded. Looks like there is the option for threaded or un-threaded. That would explain the 8 holes in the t-case flange.

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jesse3638

Active Member
Ok just spoke with the driveline shop. He said all that needs to happen is the CV needs to be drilled out so the bolts can be threaded the opposite direction. I'll drop it off today and have him take care of it. I'd do it, but don't have a drill press and don't want to wallow the holes or mess anything up.

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Ddays

Hooked
Ok just spoke with the driveline shop. He said all that needs to happen is the CV needs to be drilled out so the bolts can be threaded the opposite direction. I'll drop it off today and have him take care of it. I'd do it, but don't have a drill press and don't want to wallow the holes or mess anything up.

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That's pretty hard steel too. Without a press that'd be a bitch drilling out
 

TrailHunter

Hooked
Ok just spoke with the driveline shop. He said all that needs to happen is the CV needs to be drilled out so the bolts can be threaded the opposite direction. I'll drop it off today and have him take care of it. I'd do it, but don't have a drill press and don't want to wallow the holes or mess anything up.

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Cool! ... being that the hole is there but just threaded... you should be able to zip right through it with a hand drill. But I get it.
 
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