Dana driveshafts.

[Wethy]

Has anyone used the Dana front driveshafts on their jeeps. Have been trying to find a Je Reel up in Ontario but all the shops carry either rubicon express, Tom woods, or rugged ridge. I did notice I can get a Dana front shaft for about the same price.

The part number is
10020345

It's a front shaft for 2-4" of lift and seems like a better option than the above mentioned(except for JE reel). Also NR4x4 has JEreel but looking to get sooner than later. Lol

I tore the CV boot on the front shaft time to upgrade!

 

[2nd.gunman]

Looks like they come in 1310. That's not an upgrade

 

[MacRubi2]

Has anyone used the Dana front driveshafts on their jeeps. Have been trying to find a Je Reel up in Ontario but all the shops carry either rubicon express, Tom woods, or rugged ridge. I did notice I can get a Dana front shaft for about the same price.

The part number is
10020345

It's a front shaft for 2-4" of lift and seems like a better option than the above mentioned(except for JE reel). Also NR4x4 has JEreel but looking to get sooner than later. Lol

I tore the CV boot on the front shaft time to upgrade! View attachment 205372

Yep I'm running one of there 1310 front shafts for 3 weeks now when the PR 44 Unlimited was installed

Very smooth at highway speeds but what I have noticed is a low frequency hum when coming to a complete stop say 2-5 MPH.....

Pretty sure it's from the shaft as you can feel it a bit under the seat

 

[Wethy]

Looks like they come in 1310. That's not an upgrade

I figured they were a 1310. My thought process was this.
It's my Daily driver. I will never put a tire bigger than 35's on it while it remains a daily. Do I really need a 1350. And I probly will never push it hard enough to have needed a 1350


Even knowing that background would you still recommend a 1350? I'm interested to hear you opinions!

 

[2nd.gunman]

Jeep decided that a 1330 joint was necessary for a stock JK. If they thought they could get away with a 1310 they would have done it.

I know a lot of people put a 1310 in as a weak link but my experience is that when the u joint breaks it often takes out the yoke or worse defeating the purpose.

If the stock shaft cleared the exhaust and is in good nick I'd just put a new CV on. If not I'd go 1350.

 

[MacRubi2]

Looks like they come in 1310. That's not an upgrade

Maybe not a upgrade in joint strength since the stockers run a 1330
at the axle but they do give some more room for exhaust clearence plus a lot stronger shaft

 

[JKbrick]

I figured they were a 1310. My thought process was this.
It's my Daily driver. I will never put a tire bigger than 35's on it while it remains a daily. Do I really need a 1350. And I probly will never push it hard enough to have needed a 1350


Even knowing that background would you still recommend a 1350? I'm interested to hear you opinions!

That was my line of thinking when I bought used 1310 front and rear shafts from members here also. I don't beat on my jeep and won't have larger than 35's so was comfortable with 1310. The tube and splined sections still seem stronger in looking at them, and they are serviceable so I bought them.

 

[Grubbicon]

I say go 1350. If it was my DD id want it over built so I didnt have to worry about it. Stronger then necessary is always better because there is nothing fun about breaking.

 

[Jitsujeeper]

I have the Dana Spicer front driveshaft.
Very solid. No Chinese flange or joints like then woody 1310. On the 1310 debate. All the other manufacturers offer a 1310 or a 1350, none offer the oem 1330. I still run a dana 30 with 488s and an eaton limited slip so I thought the 1350s may do more damage if it sone how were to let go.. just my thought when I made the purchase. It was $470 from quadratec. Im in NJ so it came the very next morning. My only complaint is the horrible finish. Looks lIke my 4yr old spray painted it

 

[Wethy]

I say go 1350. If it was my DD id want it over built so I didnt have to worry about it. Stronger then necessary is always better because there is nothing fun about breaking.

I'll have to look into it then. I had considered 1350 but it seems that a reputable one is harder to find. Not concerned about price as much as quality!

Jeep decided that a 1330 joint was necessary for a stock JK. If they thought they could get away with a 1310 they would have done it.

I know a lot of people put a 1310 in as a weak link but my experience is that when the u joint breaks it often takes out the yoke or worse defeating the purpose.

If the stock shaft cleared the exhaust and is in good nick I'd just put a new CV on. If not I'd go 1350.

I do see your points. I hadn't intended to use the 1310 as a "weak link". And I imagine that if I replace the CV it will just pinch and tear again. Because of the angle of the joint and combine that when the sway bars are disconnected. Bam torn CV. I'll have to do more research before I make a purchase. I can always pull the front shaft if I have to or can't decide soon enough.

 

[Fridge81]

Have you looked into Adams drive shafts? They use American made parts and look pretty stout.

 

[toyotire]

I have been running one for the last 20000 miles and it has been to moab2x and did the rubicon trail plus many trails in the nw. It is extremely well balanced. I like that it has a sealed centering ball so no hassle greasing and the joints have zerks. I only run 35's so for me it is plenty strong. It is smooth to over 90mph and when traveling I often run 85mph tank to tank. Ok4wd had them with yokes for 420 not sure if they went up or not. I don't do hardcore trails like many here do so for milder stuff like the rubicon trail on 35's or even smaller 37's etc 1310's should hold up. If I was running 40's or bigger or even big 37's pit bulls ect might think different. The Dana ds gives plenty of room on 12 and up exhausts.

 

[Wethy]

good to know Toyo..... i do have a question i notice there is a different part number for the auto and manual J.E Reel Shafts. will an auto shaft fit on a manual. and if not why? im really curious as to the reason here. i can find the auto shafts on 4wheelparts. not exactly my favourite place to order something butttttt if i can get it then it saves me some coin as they have a "no tax" sale on this weekend

 

[13_gecko_rubi]

good to know Toyo..... i do have a question i notice there is a different part number for the auto and manual J.E Reel Shafts. will an auto shaft fit on a manual. and if not why? im really curious as to the reason here. i can find the auto shafts on 4wheelparts. not exactly my favourite place to order something butttttt if i can get it then it saves me some coin as they have a "no tax" sale on this weekend

They are different because the transmissions are different lengths so the tcase is physically located differently in jeep. Some companies build enough slip into the shaft to make it work on either but most have seperate parts. If their are different part numbers get the right one for your rig.

 

[JKbrick]

good to know Toyo..... i do have a question i notice there is a different part number for the auto and manual J.E Reel Shafts. will an auto shaft fit on a manual. and if not why? im really curious as to the reason here. i can find the auto shafts on 4wheelparts. not exactly my favourite place to order something butttttt if i can get it then it saves me some coin as they have a "no tax" sale on this weekend

Check Morris4x4, they have a sale going and free shipping, and they have Reel driveshafts

 

[MacRubi2]

I have the Dana Spicer front driveshaft.
Very solid. No Chinese flange or joints like then woody 1310. On the 1310 debate. All the other manufacturers offer a 1310 or a 1350, none offer the oem 1330. I still run a dana 30 with 488s and an eaton limited slip so I thought the 1350s may do more damage if it sone how were to let go.. just my thought when I made the purchase. It was $470 from quadratec. Im in NJ so it came the very next morning. My only complaint is the horrible finish. Looks lIke my 4yr old spray painted it

Lol
Yeah pretty poor paint finish for sure. When I recieved mine it was in a very nice Dana/Spicer HP shaft box but had NO packing material what so ever And while looking it over I noticed one of the bearing cap retainers ears was broken off and I found it floating around in the box.

The shop I bought it from was on the east coast so I contacted them explaining the broken part and the lack of packing material he hung up the phone with me and contacted Dana and the next day I talked to a person from Dana and explained it all again. Took some pics of the damage and sent it to Dana.... they had a new shaft sent to me over night They didn't even wait for them to receive the bad one....great CS

The kicker was the new one was packed the same way....no packing material At least this one was all intact.