DIY Spod- Waytekwire

Any chance someone who did the dual light switches can take a photo of the power window wire they tapped into to power the running lights for the switch? I have a 2013 JK and I'm paranoid about cutting the wrong wire. Alternatively, is there a fuse in the fuse box near the battery that I could tap into and have the same effect as the power window wire?
 
Schweaty said:
Any chance someone who did the dual light switches can take a photo of the power window wire they tapped into to power the running lights for the switch? I have a 2013 JK and I'm paranoid about cutting the wrong wire. Alternatively, is there a fuse in the fuse box near the battery that I could tap into and have the same effect as the power window wire?
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The part about using the power window light line is that you can dim the light switch lights along with every other interior dash light.

I'll take a picture of the wire for you but it will have to be tomorrow. Glad to help.
 
pastorwug said:
The part about using the power window light line is that you can dim the light switch lights along with every other interior dash light.

I'll take a picture of the wire for you but it will have to be tomorrow. Glad to help.
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Yes what Pastowug said. :yup:

You do not have to cut the wire. Get a splice that look like this SPLICE.jpg
 
Pete- it's the 20 gauge orange wire with gray stripe- it is one of the smallest wires in the plug at the power window switches.

Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
pvanweelden said:
Pete- it's the 20 gauge orange wire with gray stripe- it is one of the smallest wires in the plug at the power window switches.

Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
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Got it, I'm just hoping that someone can show me where it's easily accessible or in close proximity to the switches. I ran the bundle of wires from my relay panel through the dashpad right near the battery. I already have the switches hooked up, just need to tap into the wire for the running lights and I'm hoping I won't have to pull everything apart again.
 
Schweaty said:
Got it, I'm just hoping that someone can show me where it's easily accessible or in close proximity to the switches. I ran the bundle of wires from my relay panel through the dashpad right near the battery. I already have the switches hooked up, just need to tap into the wire for the running lights and I'm hoping I won't have to pull everything apart again.
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I had planned on taking a picture of the wire and its location for you but will require me taking the dash apart (again) so I don't think I'm willing to now. n The instructions and wire colors above are the correct ones and it is really easy to tap into that wire.

I really like the soldering idea, way better than those tap contraptions. :thumb:
 
cozdude said:
question for you. i am going to be wiring up my rigid light bar this week (hopefully) but i need a single light rocker switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CETT5S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AHYEV8NN41ZR4 like this) would this work? i am getting a switch from OTRATTW and i want it to light up blue. help please cause i dont know what to look for lol
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Steve are you getting them from the OTRATTW web page they have a ton and have blue. As for the switch it will work top is ground/ middle power /and bottom to the lights

http://www.otrattw.net/Blue-L/
 
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noroad said:
Steve are you getting them from the OTRATTW web page they have a ton and have blue. As for the switch it will work top is ground/ middle power /and bottom to the lights
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yea i am going to get the laser etched rocker switch from OTRATTW but the actual switch pod thinggy that i posted is what i need as well. i need all the help i can get when it comes to this stuff lol!
 
cozdude said:
question for you. i am going to be wiring up my rigid light bar this week (hopefully) but i need a single light rocker switch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CETT5S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AHYEV8NN41ZR4 like this) would this work? i am getting a switch from OTRATTW and i want it to light up blue. help please cause i dont know what to look for lol
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Confused because that link takes me to an ARB switch- you can order the switch from otrattw for $9.50 in blue, sorry don't have a part # handy.
And then order the switch cover from otrattw as well.

The light bar (if 50") will draw 25 amps, so make sure the fuse on your relay is 25 amps.
 
pvanweelden said:
Confused because that link takes me to an ARB switch- you can order the switch from otrattw for $9.50 in blue, sorry don't have a part # handy.
And then order the switch cover from otrattw as well.

The light bar (if 50") will draw 25 amps, so make sure the fuse on your relay is 25 amps.
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yea thats what i ment lol! i just want to make sure that i get the right switch (hopefully in blue) that will work with the clear switch cover i want to get. its a 20" spot/flood combo from rigid.
 
the link is for a switch body. Otrattw has those for $9.50
You will need a relay and fuse in your circuit as well.- oops you reposted :)

What is the wattage on the lights? 25 amps is for a 50" light bar only, everything else will be less amps.
 
pvanweelden said:
the link is for a switch body. Otrattw has those for $9.50
You will need a relay and fuse in your circuit as well.- oops you reposted :)

What is the wattage on the lights? 25 amps is for a 50" light bar only, everything else will be less amps.
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here are the specs for it from rigids website
Specifications:

  • Watts: 110
  • Amp Draw: 7.97
  • LED's: 40
  • Raw Lumens: 9200
  • Lux @ 10m: 2620
  • Beam Distance: 1024 m
  • Peak Beam Intensity: 262000 cd
 
I can't see that link ^ because it is your shopping cart. Page 14 here has the part # for the amber switch body, but I know they have them in different colors, but I would call in to order it to make sure you get blue and a blue lense cover.
10 amp fuse would be fine for those lights.
Get a relay-
Pin 30 will run to your battery + with the 10 amp fuse inline.
Pin 85 take to ground.
Pin 86 is your input from the switch.
Pin 87 is your output to the + on the lights. Hook both +'s from lights to pin 87 and then ground the negatives from the lights.
Use diagram on page 14 to hook up illumination to your switch.

Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
About to put in my order at waytek wire and had a question about the fuses. In large part, all I'm planning to hook up at this point are LED lights which will draw pretty low amperage, here's what I'm thinking about right now:

(2) A-Pillar Lights
18W each, drawing 3 amps combined?

(2) Flush Mount Pods for Rear Bumper
18W each, drawing 3 amps combined?

(1) 13.5" Light Bar on Fairlead
72W, drawing 6 amps?

(Not sure on quantity just yet, possibly 8) LED Rock Lights
9W each, drawing 6 amps combined?​

With that in mind, am I okay using 10 amp fuses on all circuits, or should I drop down to a 5 on the circuits with just the two pod lights?
 
pvanweelden said:
I can't see that link ^ because it is your shopping cart. Page 14 here has the part # for the amber switch body, but I know they have them in different colors, but I would call in to order it to make sure you get blue and a blue lense cover.
10 amp fuse would be fine for those lights.
Get a relay-
Pin 30 will run to your battery + with the 10 amp fuse inline.
Pin 85 take to ground.
Pin 86 is your input from the switch.
Pin 87 is your output to the + on the lights. Hook both +'s from lights to pin 87 and then ground the negatives from the lights.
Use diagram on page 14 to hook up illumination to your switch.

Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
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lol sorry paul

http://www.otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-HONEY-BADGER-UPPER-DEPENDENT-LED-ONLY-V1D1BB0B-PZCG2-1HL.html
 
Order 10 amps from waytekwire, but you could always pick up (2) 5 amp fuses from auto store or radio shack if you wanted to later. Being a little over is fine. You just don't want to be way over like a 40 amp fuse for a 10 amp circuit.

Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
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