Evo mfg long arm bolt on kit help

Tree Frog

Member
Well welcome to WAL. Great way to start out by posting up some useful information!

There is a lot of very helpful folks on here. I really believe I could not have done this with out them and without Eddies article from Project JK. Even though it shows an older kit and a lot of things have changed it really showed it installed.

Ask away if you have any questions.
 

Panda

New member
Looks Great. I just read an article in JP Magazine on this same kit and had previously been researching long arm kits for some time. I hope to buy the EVO kit this spring and install myself. It's great to see someone else doing it and the helpful knowledge on this site. I am not shy about wrenching at all and will probably weld most my own brackets. One thing to keep in mind on your cutting, especially with a sawzall, is to use a higher TPI blade and cut with slow rpm's. If you try to cut too fast it will overheat the blade and strip the teeth off. This is officially my first post so I'll send out a WAL Wave!!! :standing wave:

Welcome to wayalife! Good tip on the sawzall :thumb:
 

ralfman5

New member
Working on the rear passenger side. Started the cutting. Any suggestions is welcomed.
 

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ralfman5

New member
Well welcome to WAL. Great way to start out by posting up some useful information!

There is a lot of very helpful folks on here. I really believe I could not have done this with out them and without Eddies article from Project JK. Even though it shows an older kit and a lot of things have changed it really showed it installed.

Ask away if you have any questions.

Hey, on the rear passenger side, do I have to cut the gas shield tab to get the bracket to fit?
 

Tree Frog

Member
Yeah in the instructions there should be a detail view showing the cutting needed on the tank skid mounting tab and a small cut out below it in the skid itself to allow for you to put the control arm nut on.

Here is a secret, use ratchet straps to help you hold the tank while you drop it. They also really help on assembly as you have kind of feed the tank skid mount you cut, into the bracket.
 

ralfman5

New member
Yeah in the instructions there should be a detail view showing the cutting needed on the tank skid mounting tab and a small cut out below it in the skid itself to allow for you to put the control arm nut on.

Here is a secret, use ratchet straps to help you hold the tank while you drop it. They also really help on assembly as you have kind of feed the tank skid mount you cut, into the bracket.

So I have to remove the gas tank??
 

Tree Frog

Member
Yes you have to remove it.
You need to be abel to cut the tank skid and be able to weld on the tank side of the frame.
Mark your lines carefully and take your time pulling the connectors off.
Hope its real low on fuel as you can not siphon from these tanks. There is a screen thing inside the opaque plastic filler hose right where it goes into the tank.
If you remove the rubber hose then lower the tank some so you can get in there, there's a little pair of tab things that retain this screen and a ring, just kind scrape out these little tabs with a razor knife and you can pull that screen thing out.
 

Tree Frog

Member
As Panda said, I would not feel good about it. Gas vapors are very explosive and one little spark can lead to a very bad day.

The connectors are kind of fussy at first but if you play with them enough you will get it. 2 of them have a little safety clip that has to be removed by sliding it out to one side. Mine were blue and green.
Then once the clip is removed you can squeeze the connector in just the right place and sort of push it in and then pull back to get it to release. They are not all the same just to make it more difficult for us.
Think of it as a game and play it well.

The ones on the evap canister also will pop right off and it makes it easier to get the tank down I thought.

Note that nothing holds the fuel tank except the skid covering it. So once you remove the bolts it is ready to drop out. Your rear end will be in the way on the way down so have it loose and plan on pulling it back and off to the drivers side.

Once out the tank just sits in the skid plate and can be lifted right out. (Providing its empty!) This will give you a chance to remove any dents in the skid and once cut, you can paint everything before reinstall.
Amazing how much crap builds up inside this skid in only a year and a half. Must have had 4 pounds of the Tillamook State Forest in there.
 

ralfman5

New member
I got the skid plate off, using ratchet tie downs. I did one side at a time. I manages to slide the ratchet tie down between the gas tank and the skid plate. After that I raised the skid plate and tighten the ratchet then I lowered the skid plate and the gas tank stayed strapped with the tie down
... Thank you guys for your help.
.now to prepare the skid plate...
 

Tree Frog

Member
You will need to get the tank out of the vehicle if you are going to weld the bracket on. I would not want to even cut off the old bracket with the fuel tank right next to it.

As far as the front bracket goes, I cut off my loop then got the front bracket in and welded up. I wanted to make sure it was going to clear the bracket, clear the control arms and clear the driveshaft with plenty of space to allow for articulation.

It did kind of suck to get this loop back in and hooked up. What I ended up doing was to get a piece of tailpipe and cut 2 small sections at the correct angles on one end. Weld on the ends to make up the weird angles needed and then use those flat band clamps on each end to make up the joints. I cut out my factory joint so I wanted to be able to remove the exhaust loop from the cat if I needed to do work later on. Plus there was no way I could see to weld the pipe all the way around with a MIG welder. A TIG with a short tungsten and cap may have been able to get it but not my set up. The band clamps made it real easy to hook up.

In the photos I posted on page 2 you can see several views of what I am talking about. The tube from a paper towel roll is almost the right size to use for the mock up.

I almost said forget it and go to a flex pipe or something, but after reading several posts about how our engines need this pipe I decided to do it right. Sure feel better about it to.

This part must have taken me a full day to get it right. I would love to see in person how the guys at Offroad Evolution do it. Bet they would laugh at my crazy ass way of Git-n-er done. Oh well it worked and its done.
 

ralfman5

New member
Hey, I finished the rear and driving it like that..the rear feels like its lower than the front now..is it supposed to be that way? How would I know the correct length the rear arms need to be and what's the easier way to adjust? Thanks.
 

highoctane

Caught the Bug
Do the instructions have a nominal length to set the arms to? They should be set to a nominal length, and adjusted as required to get the rear pinion angle adjusted properly. The Evo arms have a turn buckle on the axle side rod end that you adjust after loosening the jam nuts. But the length of the arms would not effect the height of the vehicle.
 
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