Front after market pinion flange torque

[JeepJeep75]

Hello all! I have a few concerns about my upcoming front Adams driveshaft installation. I've read through several threads and have looked at the install write-up done by Eddie. My biggest concern is I DO NOT want to f*ck up my pinion gear by over tightening the pinion flange nut. In step 9 of this write-up:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write...-front-1310-drive-shaft-installation-write-up
It is said to use 160 foot-pounds of torque to tighten the nut. Here's where I'm finding different info. In the Adams installation video, they say just tighten until the flange is tight. I don't have a factory service manual, so I'm not sure what an inch-pound wrench is needed for as Eddie mentions would be helpful, but not needed.
So, what are you guys (or gals) tightening the front flange nut down to? 160 foot pounds like the write-up says? Or just enough to make the flange not wiggle? I realize that everyone's idea of tight can vary greatly. I want to use the torque spec provided in the JK write up but I afraid I'm gonna over-do it. Everyone's opinion is appreciated!! Thank you!!

 

[cozdude]

160 ft lbs is stock spec I believe so do thay

 

[WJCO]

Buy an inch-pound wrench. Prior to removing the yoke, turn the pinion gear with the wrench. That will tell you your existing turning resistance. Then when you install the new yoke, go 1 inch pound past that. That's how I've always done it. I would assume a YouTube video is out there for changing the pinion seal which is basically the same process.

Note this is NOT the actual torque of the nut but the measurement of the turning resistance.

EDIT: I just read the write-up. I don't remember how much my wrench was when I had it. If it's too much, maybe a parts store would rent one?

 

[JeepJeep75]

Buy an inch-pound wrench. Prior to removing the yoke, turn the pinion gear with the wrench. That will tell you your existing turning resistance. Then when you install the new yoke, go 1 inch pound past that. That's how I've always done it. I would assume a YouTube video is out there for changing the pinion seal which is basically the same process.

Note this is NOT the actual torque of the nut but the measurement of the turning resistance.

Thank you WJCO!!! This totally explains to me the need for the inch-pound wrench. Makes complete sense too for checking the preload. Now I won't have to wonder if I got the flange nut tight enough, or too tight. Thank you!!!

 

[WJCO]

Thank you WJCO!!! This totally explains to me the need for the inch-pound wrench. Makes complete sense too for checking the preload. Now I won't have to wonder if I got the flange nut tight enough, or too tight. Thank you!!!

I know Eddie has a ton of experience with this, I've just never done it that way. That doesn't mean it won't work. It's not so much the worry of damaging the gear, but rather ensuring that your crush sleeve sets the bearing pre-load correctly. If not set correctly , you can cause premature wear of the bearing.

 

[JKbrick]

I'm doing this Tuesday and from what I've read you are to get a reading of the rotational torque which from what I can find is 7 to 13 inch pounds. Then when put back together I read to put the rotational torque 5 inch pounds more. I'm sure there are multiple ways to do this. I'm having the mechanic that works on my company trucks help me and was going to attempt a write up if it turns out well

 

[JeepJeep75]

I know Eddie has a ton of experience with this, I've just never done it that way. That doesn't mean it won't work. It's not so much the worry of damaging the gear, but rather ensuring that your crush sleeve sets the bearing pre-load correctly. If not set correctly , you can cause premature wear of the bearing.

Yea, damaging the gears by over torquing the nut and further crushing the crush sleeve is my main concern. I've been wanting an inch-pound wrench for a long time. Now is a great reason to get one. I know it's not needed to do this job, but I will sleep better knowing I haven't over tightened the flange nut. I have a decent torque wrench in foot pounds, but now I have a good excuse for getting an inch-pound wrench.

 

[WJCO]

Yea, damaging the gears by over torquing the nut and further crushing the crush sleeve is my main concern. I've been wanting an inch-pound wrench for a long time. Now is a great reason to get one. I know it's not needed to do this job, but I will sleep better knowing I haven't over tightened the flange nut. I have a decent torque wrench in foot pounds, but now I have a good excuse for getting an inch-pound wrench.

There you go :thumb: This is probably the only time you'll use that tool, lol. But it sure feels good to have the right tool for the job. You may want to change your seal too while you're at it if it's not too old.

 

[WJCO]

Get a decent wrench too and store it properly. Something this sensitive you don't want to fuck up.

 

[jkuone]

Thank you WJCO!!! This totally explains to me the need for the inch-pound wrench. Makes complete sense too for checking the preload. Now I won't have to wonder if I got the flange nut tight enough, or too tight. Thank you!!!

Another tip if not pulling axle shafts make sure you push the brake pads away from rotors so there is no additional rotational drag

 

[JeepJeep75]

Another tip if not pulling axle shafts make sure you push the brake pads away from rotors so there is no additional rotational drag

Didn't think about this either. Great point. Thank you jkuone!!

 

[JeepJeep75]

There you go :thumb: This is probably the only time you'll use that tool, lol. But it sure feels good to have the right tool for the job. You may want to change your seal too while you're at it if it's not too old.

Jeep only has 13k miles. Yes, the right tool for the job is very important. I would rather spend the money on tools to do a job rather than pay someone. Unless it's body work, or diff gears. That's where I draw the line.

 

[2nd.gunman]

Yea, damaging the gears by over torquing the nut and further crushing the crush sleeve is my main concern. I've been wanting an inch-pound wrench for a long time. Now is a great reason to get one. I know it's not needed to do this job, but I will sleep better knowing I haven't over tightened the flange nut. I have a decent torque wrench in foot pounds, but now I have a good excuse for getting an inch-pound wrench.

If you don't want to spend a couple hundred on a dial inch pound wrench you can get a deflection wrench cheap from a bicycle shop. I picked up a park tool brand one for about $50 when I did the diffs in the WJ.

 

[JeepJeep75]

If you don't want to spend a couple hundred on a dial inch pound wrench you can get a deflection wrench cheap from a bicycle shop. I picked up a park tool brand one for about $50 when I did the diffs in the WJ.

Good info! Thank you sir!!

 

[JKbrick]

Got them installed tonight if anyone is interested I can try to explain the process but I didn't get pictures

 

[JeepJeep75]

Got them installed tonight if anyone is interested I can try to explain the process but I didn't get pictures

After some more searching I found out it takes a lot of torque to crush down the crush-sleeve. Like 300+ foot pounds. So, what method did you use? Tighten to 160 foot pounds? Tighten until "tight"? Did you check the preload/postload with an inch pound torque wrench? Thanks for the feedback on this.

 

[Tree Frog]

Set mine (both front and rear) to 160lbs. About all I could do to pull it.
This was the method recommended by Adams. 13000 miles later and no problems yet.

Read my ass off on this procedure as like you I did not want to mess it up. Setting up a diff. properly is an art form in my book. I bow down to those that can do it correctly.

 

[WJCO]

After some more searching I found out it takes a lot of torque to crush down the crush-sleeve. Like 300+ foot pounds. So, what method did you use? Tighten to 160 foot pounds? Tighten until "tight"? Did you check the preload/postload with an inch pound torque wrench? Thanks for the feedback on this.

300 seems excessive IMO. They do make a yoke holder. It's like a breaker bar with holes in it so you can screw the tool onto your yoke finger tight. Gives you something to hold on to so the yoke doesn't spin while torquing it. You can make your own too. Lots of DIY ones out there.

 

[2nd.gunman]

After some more searching I found out it takes a lot of torque to crush down the crush-sleeve. Like 300+ foot pounds. So, what method did you use? Tighten to 160 foot pounds? Tighten until "tight"? Did you check the preload/postload with an inch pound torque wrench? Thanks for the feedback on this.

You only want to go to 300+ to crush a new sleeve during a rebuild. If you're only changing the yoke or pinion seal you really want to sneak up on the rotational torque that you measured beforehand.

 

[JKbrick]

You only want to go to 300+ to crush a new sleeve during a rebuild. If you're only changing the yoke or pinion seal you really want to sneak up on the rotational torque that you measured beforehand.

That is what we did, my friend had this

And a wrench similar to the yoke wrench shown above. We measured the rotational torque before doing anything, then disassembled everything. We changed the pinion seals just because we were there. Then we installed the new yokes and started tightening until we were just above the rotational torque where we started. I will say I bet we were at every bit of 160ft pounds tight though, I had my 24" breaker bar on the pinion nut turning it a little at each check. With the right tools it was a very simple process I would not be afraid to do by myself next time. But I am glad my friend helped me do this and I didn't just torque it down, that would have bothered me since I am too anal about torquing every single thing to specs.