Front drive shaft options ...

Heavyhaul07

New member
I just ordered a Adams 1310 solid driveshaft on Monday got it Thursday. I'm sitting at 3&3/4" of lift. Took me 20 minutes to install at work on the lift. Great customer service. Very happy with my purchase. Replaced t-case yoke was all that was needed. Much better than the angles I was with the stock shaft.
 
Not really lifted atm.. I'm running the Evo leveling kit... I'm just not positive that once I go to 35's and start wheeling it that the stock front driveshaft will hold up... So wanting something better
Your factory one will probably be fine, but if you want "stronger", get a 1350. 1310 is a weaker than factory joint, the aftermarket shaft just articulates better.
 

Slimebones

Active Member
Rob Peter to pay Paul?

So if you replace the front drive shaft with 1350's, do the front axle u'joints now become the "weak link in the chain"? Will those stock axle u'joints be able to handle the extra stress now passed on to them? Would be easier to replace driveshaft joints on trail than axle joints
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
So if you replace the front drive shaft with 1350's, do the front axle u'joints now become the "weak link in the chain"? Will those stock axle u'joints be able to handle the extra stress now passed on to them? Would be easier to replace driveshaft joints on trail than axle joints

Depends what gears are you running?
 

Slimebones

Active Member
I've got 4.88 gears. Tire are 37" which actually measure out at 35 1/2" installed on vehicle. Thanks for the response.
 

Speedy_RCW

Hooked
Great. Thanks! Any issues swapping out the T-case yoke?

No, it's a piece of cake. Just gotta have a torque wrench that will do 160ft-lb. I also reused the packaging my new shaft came in to keep my old shaft and t-case flange as a trail spare. :thumb:
 

Slimebones

Active Member
If I understand this correctly then, if you upgrade to 1350's on driveshaft, you then need to upgrade the axle u-joints. I would assume that means axle replacement. It's either all or none, correct? I would not be gaining anything as far as reliabilty goes by just replacing the driveshaft?
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
If I understand this correctly then, if you upgrade to 1350's on driveshaft, you then need to upgrade the axle u-joints. I would assume that means axle replacement. It's either all or none, correct? I would not be gaining anything as far as reliabilty goes by just replacing the driveshaft?

I wouldn't say that. If you're not stupid you can wheel with the stock shafts. Not to mention carrying a spare u joint for an axle shaft is easier then dealing with a blown ring and pinion. Just get a 1350 and be done with it.
 

Slimebones

Active Member
I hear what you are saying. Do you recommend using the driveshaft that requires replacement of the diff yoke or is it ok to use the one that bolts up to the stock yoke flange?
 

Slimebones

Active Member
When replacing the diff yoke it looks like it is critical to set the preload on that bearing with the inch pound torque wrench. Thought it might be advisable to install a shaft that uses the existing yoke, since that spec has already been set. Guess I will have to do some more research since I thought I saw one available. Thanks for the advice.
 

Speedy_RCW

Hooked
When replacing the diff yoke it looks like it is critical to set the preload on that bearing with the inch pound torque wrench. Thought it might be advisable to install a shaft that uses the existing yoke, since that spec has already been set. Guess I will have to do some more research since I thought I saw one available. Thanks for the advice.

It's definitely an option, I just installed one from Adams. And I've also heard of people replacing the pinion yoke and torquing without issues. From what I've read you can safely replace the yoke without screwing up the crush sleeve. I just decided better safe than sorry so only replaced the t-case yoke.
 

2nd.gunman

Caught the Bug
The Tom Woods shaft apparently comes with shitty joints unless you specify you want the upgrade to Spicer joints. Most stick with JE Reel, Adams, or Coast.

Also, I believe the 1310 driveshaft is smaller than the stock driveshaft, so it really wouldn't be an upgrade...can anyone confirm this?

This ^^^ I personally wouldn't recommend a Woods shaft unless you pay to have it upgraded with Neapco or Spicer joints. I have seen his "Gold Seal" joints fail time and time again and for what looked like no good reason.



This is correct. A 1310 is a weaker joint.

Thanks guys. I guess I'll keep looking around to see what's available locally
 

JoeB-JKURX

New member
CV Joint is the weak point

The U-joint on the stock front driveshaft is stronger than the 1310 but not as strong (as I understand) as the 1350 (I've heard it described as something around a 1330). The main problem, however, with the stock driveshaft (besides the obvious likely interference with the exhaust with a normal lift) is that (even if the boot is intact) under a heavy load, the CV (Rezeppa) can just open up like a can of tuna and the balls are displaced from where they should be and the CV joint fails. An advantage to aftermarket double cardan driveshafts (1310 or 1350) is that all of the articulation is with U-joints. An advantage with the 1310 is that, with the smaller U-joints, they can move over a greater angle than the 1350 allowing more articulation of the suspension before the joints bind. Another is, that with the smaller diameter, the suspension can move more before the shaft hits the exhaust. A 1310 shaft should be strong enough for most rock crawling with tires up to 37". If you go bigger or are hyper-aggressive, you'd be better off with a 1350 though that would likely suggest an exhaust system mod as well.
 

2nd.gunman

Caught the Bug
The U-joint on the stock front driveshaft is stronger than the 1310 but not as strong (as I understand) as the 1350 (I've heard it described as something around a 1330). The main problem, however, with the stock driveshaft (besides the obvious likely interference with the exhaust with a normal lift) is that (even if the boot is intact) under a heavy load, the CV (Rezeppa) can just open up like a can of tuna and the balls are displaced from where they should be and the CV joint fails. An advantage to aftermarket double cardan driveshafts (1310 or 1350) is that all of the articulation is with U-joints. An advantage with the 1310 is that, with the smaller U-joints, they can move over a greater angle than the 1350 allowing more articulation of the suspension before the joints bind. Another is, that with the smaller diameter, the suspension can move more before the shaft hits the exhaust. A 1310 shaft should be strong enough for most rock crawling with tires up to 37". If you go bigger or are hyper-aggressive, you'd be better off with a 1350 though that would likely suggest an exhaust system mod as well.

Actually a CV joint is much stronger than the same size U joint. The forces in the U joint bearing caps change direction and magnitude drastically as it rotates and there is much less bearing surface area than a CV
 

JoeB-JKURX

New member
Concerning the Rzeppa CV Joint per the Quadratec web site:

The design works like a bevel gear; but instead of gear teeth transmitting the torque across the joint, the balls push against their respective tracks in the inner and outer housings. A downside to this is though that if the joint is overstressed the balls can be pushed out of their tracks and stretch and crack the housing causing a failure.

This failure mode is pretty common on the stock DS. I've not heard of the U-joints in the double cardan failing though failure of the U-joint at the pinion is fairly common - especially if there is much of an angle at the pinion as there often is with a 3+" lift.

So much for much stronger!!
 

Drdiesel1

New member
I watched a video on changing from the stock driveshafts to the Cardin style and it
requires a 1.5° positive tilt to the pinion. Anyone know about the difference requirement
on pinon angle ? Or is the video incorrect ? Thanks!
 
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