Fuel tank vapor port cracked/broken!
- Thread starter ScoobyCarolanNC
- Start date
ScoobyCarolanNC
Active Member
Well, I bet we used different brand pens lol. Mine wasn't snug & I had to wait for the JB to set on the tank side before I could do the hose. Was it a Bic? I used a Penmate.
Sent from my duck blind.
WJCO
Meme King
If you can still get in there, soak that bitch in FlexSeal.
ScoobyCarolanNC
Active Member
jschmadeke
New member
Problem Solved
Thanks for all the ideas on repairing this common problem. I too refused to buy new tank/fuel pickup part. Easy fix if you get the right size ink tube from a pen. Like a few others else mentioned, the first couple of pens I tore apart had the super small ink tubes. Keep searching!
I also found an "in-line needle valve" from the hardware store contained a couple of parts you can use to make the connection. You would need to cut off the flared end first, but the fit is absolutely perfect.
I ended up using the ink pen method and some JB Weld epoxy. I started with the broken part/connector and epoxied in the pen tube. Since it was slightly smaller than the diameter of the broken part, I decided to glue it together first and allow to cure overnight. The hardest part of the repair was waiting for the glue to dry and not rush the repair job. The following day I used a mirror and epoxied the connector with pen tube into the gas tank.
Both the error codes disappeared and the repair seems to be holding.
Autozone has a great video on how to release the hard line quick connectors at about 52 seconds in. https://www.autozone.com/video/video.jsp?searchTerm=PUPJFZUZ&searchType=byId
Thanks for all the ideas on repairing this common problem. I too refused to buy new tank/fuel pickup part. Easy fix if you get the right size ink tube from a pen. Like a few others else mentioned, the first couple of pens I tore apart had the super small ink tubes. Keep searching!
I also found an "in-line needle valve" from the hardware store contained a couple of parts you can use to make the connection. You would need to cut off the flared end first, but the fit is absolutely perfect.
I ended up using the ink pen method and some JB Weld epoxy. I started with the broken part/connector and epoxied in the pen tube. Since it was slightly smaller than the diameter of the broken part, I decided to glue it together first and allow to cure overnight. The hardest part of the repair was waiting for the glue to dry and not rush the repair job. The following day I used a mirror and epoxied the connector with pen tube into the gas tank.
Both the error codes disappeared and the repair seems to be holding.
Autozone has a great video on how to release the hard line quick connectors at about 52 seconds in. https://www.autozone.com/video/video.jsp?searchTerm=PUPJFZUZ&searchType=byId
thombull
Member
I had this same problem and fixed it with the same way, the pen tube.... I found that the cause of the problem was from my emergency brake cables pulling down on the line during articulation....prior to putting the line back together I ran it above the brake cables and it's been good ever since.
Sent from my QMV7A using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my QMV7A using WAYALIFE mobile app
Steve Williams
Member
Same problem- slightly different fix
I found the gas tank vapor fitting broken on top of the gas tank as you guys have described. The tell tale sign was the gas tank cap light coming on and staying on. The brake cable does pull down on the line as described by thombull above and the plastic fitting will break. I'm not sure if later model JKs have the same issue but I found out one of my friends in the local club with the same 2011 had the same issue and the dealer's answer was to replace the gas tank- $1100. I decided I wanted to try and fix it for a little less so I picked up some 3/8 stainless tubing at Ace and some Seal All (Update the Seal All didnt last. I pulled it out this mornin, went back in with JB Weld) .
I drilled out the broken piece of the fitting and the plastic piece on the tank. I used a small tubing cutter and the 3/16 drill bit and the 3/16 tubing made for a nice fit. I opened up the compressed tubing with a smaller drill to keep the tube open so I don't have any issues filling the tank. The only issue I had was that my relocated Evap cannister was right in the way so I had to remove it to get the drill in there. You can get a regular size drill motor in there without having to drop the tank.
I left the fitting to cure overnight and it felt nice and solid the next morning.
The code cleared and hopefully it wont break again. I'm hoping the stainless will be strong enough to reinforce the fitting. I cut the wire ties holding the line in place to give it some room to flex and I am going to move the brake line under the evap line.
I hope this helps somebody,
I found the gas tank vapor fitting broken on top of the gas tank as you guys have described. The tell tale sign was the gas tank cap light coming on and staying on. The brake cable does pull down on the line as described by thombull above and the plastic fitting will break. I'm not sure if later model JKs have the same issue but I found out one of my friends in the local club with the same 2011 had the same issue and the dealer's answer was to replace the gas tank- $1100. I decided I wanted to try and fix it for a little less so I picked up some 3/8 stainless tubing at Ace and some Seal All (Update the Seal All didnt last. I pulled it out this mornin, went back in with JB Weld) .
I drilled out the broken piece of the fitting and the plastic piece on the tank. I used a small tubing cutter and the 3/16 drill bit and the 3/16 tubing made for a nice fit. I opened up the compressed tubing with a smaller drill to keep the tube open so I don't have any issues filling the tank. The only issue I had was that my relocated Evap cannister was right in the way so I had to remove it to get the drill in there. You can get a regular size drill motor in there without having to drop the tank.
I left the fitting to cure overnight and it felt nice and solid the next morning.
The code cleared and hopefully it wont break again. I'm hoping the stainless will be strong enough to reinforce the fitting. I cut the wire ties holding the line in place to give it some room to flex and I am going to move the brake line under the evap line.
I hope this helps somebody,
Last edited:
Steve Williams
Member
Mine came on with the gas cap text. I had never seen that before. If it’s intermittent and you can’t find an obvious leak it could be the sensor. Seems to be a fairly common failure according to my service dude. Good luck!
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