Gears

cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Wrangler2174 said:
I would need ring and pinions along with install kit for front and rear correct?
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yea a master overhaul kit should have all the bearings and shims needed.

do you plan on doing the install yourself? if not see if you can find a shop that knows gears and can order all parts for you so you dont order something you dont need by accident.
 
DROBICON

DROBICON

Member
cozdude said:
yea a master overhaul kit should have all the bearings and shims needed.

do you plan on doing the install yourself? if not see if you can find a shop that knows gears and can order all parts for you so you dont order something you dont need by accident.
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A friend of mine has done them on his Dodge Hemi and several other vehicles. Thinking about letting him do them. Still up in the air tho.
 
Sithwindu

Sithwindu

Member
If you don't change the front gears on the axle, to drive around do you need to take off front driveshaft? Or just not engage 4wd
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Wrangler2174 said:
A friend of mine has done them on his Dodge Hemi and several other vehicles. Thinking about letting him do them. Still up in the air tho.
Click to expand...

ahh ok. well if he does your going to want a master overhaul kit like this for the front and rear (one provided is for the rear)
http://www.northridge4x4.com/drivet...-non-rubicon-dana-44-rear-master-overhaul-kit

and new R&P gear ratio of your choice. as wayalife metioned all of them are made by the same company in korea so just look for the cheapest set.
(gears provided are just for price reference)
http://www.northridge4x4.com/drivet...gear-set-dana-spicer-44-jk-rubicon-4-88-ratio
 
DROBICON

DROBICON

Member
cozdude said:
ahh ok. well if he does your going to want a master overhaul kit like this for the front and rear (one provided is for the rear)
http://www.northridge4x4.com/drivet...-non-rubicon-dana-44-rear-master-overhaul-kit

and new R&P gear ratio of your choice. as wayalife metioned all of them are made by the same company in korea so just look for the cheapest set.
(gears provided are just for price reference)
http://www.northridge4x4.com/drivet...gear-set-dana-spicer-44-jk-rubicon-4-88-ratio
Click to expand...

Thanks man! I appreciate your help!
 
Bacon

Bacon

Member
Sithwindu said:
If you don't change the front gears on the axle, to drive around do you need to take off front driveshaft? Or just not engage 4wd
Click to expand...

Either or. You can reinstall the front ds and just not pull your casr into 4wd, but the safe bet is to just not reinstall the shaft. That way you don't forget and accidentally put it in 4wd. And really, this should only be a temp setup until you rehear the front.
 
DROBICON

DROBICON

Member
Do you guys think I should start with a programmer before I do gears? Been looking at Diablo and superchips.
 
0

07JKSahara

New member
Wrangler2174 said:
Do you guys think I should start with a programmer before I do gears? Been looking at Diablo and superchips.
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I have 35s with 4.10s. It's no race car, buts it's far from unmanageable. I did the Flashcal (basic one). It's totally driveable but searches on hills... That said I live in a terribly hilly area. I personally would do the programmer first, see if you like the driving. You'll need one anyway when you regear, so it spreads out the $$$ a little.
 
V

Virgil

New member
Bacon said:
No. Well, yes technically. You CAN do that, but then you can't put it in 4wd or you'll blow up your transfer case. So the real answer is no you can't. The front and rear outputs of the task need to spin at the same rate or else it will catastrophically fail quite quickly.
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Lots of the big mud boggers run different gears front and rear.
They run numerically lower gears in the front so the front tires spin faster to help them keep straight.

These are 2000 HP monstrosities in mud where the tires spinning at different speeds isn't going to blow up their super built transfer cases.
They touch pavement in that setup though and boom.

Just thought I'd throw in a wrinkle to confuse people :)

Basically, if you run different ratios the front and rear tires will turn at different speeds and transfer case explosion can/will occur.
 
Wolf Man

Wolf Man

New member
With the 3.8 engine and 35's with auto, you want to go with the 5.13 Ratio.
If you are running a manual, then the 4.88 Ratio!:thumb:
 
AcB-jk

AcB-jk

New member
Wolf Man said:
With the 3.8 engine and 35's with auto, you want to go with the 5.13 Ratio.
If you are running a manual, then the 4.88 Ratio!:thumb:
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While you can get away with it its very risky especially on that dana 30. That pinion will be really small and as it is the ring and pinion is normally the weakest link in the dana 30 being that it is so small compared the the dana 44. I'd personally stick with the 4.88s because but that's just me :yup:
 
Wolf Man

Wolf Man

New member
AcB-jk said:
While you can get away with it its very risky especially on that dana 30. That pinion will be really small and as it is the ring and pinion is normally the weakest link in the dana 30 being that it is so small compared the the dana 44. I'd personally stick with the 4.88s because but that's just me :yup:
Click to expand...

I agree with you that the Dana 30 R&P is a very weak Link!:yup:

But I try to base my responses on what is needed for the optimum performances, for a experienced user!:thumb:

If a user doesn't use common sense, get's it bouncing and shock loads the hell out of it, then yes the 5.13 would most likely grenade first (agree)!:doh:
 
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