good inexpensive BB or 2-2.5" lift to get by

[Lone Star]

On the bump stops, EVO kit and 33's, I didn't have any rubbing except on the lower air dam. I removed that. I do have some rubbing with the 35's and 4.5" back spacing. A set of 4 hockey pucks arrived yesterday. They were $1.99 each and I plan on using those as my bump stops.

That's cool, how are you attaching them? And is it pretty standard to relocate the air dam with bigger tires?

 

[Red Knight15]

This is 35" Toyos with a Rubicon Express budget boost 2.5" in the front 1 3/4" in the back. It comes with everything but shock extensions

Before cut fenders ,they might rub with front swaybar disconnected. Sway bar is connected in this picture
And here it is with fenders chopped

Chopped mine because I will be running disconnects , if your not going to wheel that hard I wouldn't worry about rub.
I put 33s on my other JK and was sick the first time I parked next to one with 35s

 

[notnalc68]

Ok, so i went back digging to my old spreadsheet. I mixed matched some data when i replied to Eddie earlier.

15" - I've got (5) 15x8 pro comps (3.75" backspacing) and (5) Toyo MT's 35x13.5x15 Priced at $1859.90.

17" - Looking at either 315/70R17 duratracs or 35x12.5x17 Nitto M/T'sprice is only $60 difference. Looking at 17" rims cheapest that I am seeing are over $130. Maybe i just need to do more digging? but even at $100/rim, i'm over $2500 Tires alone run $2000, that's with DTD coverage as well.

So If i don't change lift till new tires and getting new rims at that point, besides resale value, is there really any disadvantages significant enough to not go with the 15" starting out? That will save me $650 roughly, where i can get , BB lift, C gussets, flashcal, bumstops, JKS quick disconnects, and CB radio set up, for less still.

Starting out budget is going to be very tight. This route would go a long ways for me. Not sure i could justify resale value for the 17" rims later? the 15's are cheap enough, they may pay for themselves in the extra money saved initially? lol that sentence may not make sense, idk. If i'm not planning on keeping the budget 17's should i spend that much more money getting them to start? Or is it really just preference? I'm all ears.

This is 35" Toyos with a Rubicon Express budget boost 2.5" in the front 1 3/4" in the back. It comes with everything but shock extensions
View attachment 215961
Before cut fenders ,they might rub with front swaybar disconnected. View attachment 215962 Sway bar is connected in this picture View attachment 215962
And here it is with fenders chopped
View attachment 215964
Chopped mine because I will be running disconnects , if your not going to wheel that hard I wouldn't worry about rub.
I put 33s on my other JK and was sick the first time I parked next to one with 35s

You could pick up some used wheels, also, or some stock wheels with spacers, too. I went 16" for the looks, and wish I'd stayed 17" now.

Take a look at DTD



http://www.discounttiredirect.com/d....50/5*5-5/5.50&sortBy=prca&fqs=true&wd=17&rw=

 

[GraniteCrystal]

A few more thoughts: it's not too hard to find a budget boost, stock fenders, and wheel spacers for cheap to downright free. Of those 3, I've only paid for wheel spacers ($120 is going rate). That could put you on 35s really cheap.

Second, 3.73 is a little light for 35s. You'll be fine but you'll lose a little power. If you're never going bigger, you may want to budget to re-gear once you put in the 3" Enforcer to 4.56 or so.

Lastly, check out the High Clearance fender flares from Mopar. Same look but no rubbing or cutting.

 

[USMC Wrangler]

That's cool, how are you attaching them? And is it pretty standard to relocate the air dam with bigger tires?

The plan is to get some self tapping, hex head screws to attach them. I plan on starting with one hockey puck per bumpstop and going from there. They are an inch thick.

That air dam is plastic like the fenders, bumpers and side mirrors. It will get yanked off road, as I've read and been told many times. I tried leaving it on, against advice, and discovered rubbing on a trail. I can't say for certain, yes it will always rub with oversize tires in every circumstance. I, and am sure many others here, would recommend pulling it sooner than later. I tried giving mine away locally but it ended up in the garbage.

 

[notnalc68]

I just checked the Dallas Craiglist, and you may find a deal on stock Rubi wheels

 

[USMC Wrangler]

You could pick up some used wheels, also, or some stock wheels with spacers, too. I went 16" for the looks, and wish I'd stayed 17" now.

Take a look at DTD

View attachment 215972

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/d....50/5*5-5/5.50&sortBy=prca&fqs=true&wd=17&rw=

I like those wheels! Those are the ones I just got. [emoji106]

 

[Lone Star]

This is 35" Toyos with a Rubicon Express budget boost 2.5" in the front 1 3/4" in the back. It comes with everything but shock extensions
View attachment 215961
Before cut fenders ,they might rub with front swaybar disconnected. View attachment 215962 Sway bar is connected in this picture View attachment 215962
And here it is with fenders chopped
View attachment 215964
Chopped mine because I will be running disconnects , if your not going to wheel that hard I wouldn't worry about rub.
I put 33s on my other JK and was sick the first time I parked next to one with 35s

That looks really nice! nice job on the fenders too!

 

[catahoula]

I just checked the Dallas Craiglist, and you may find a deal on stock Rubi wheels

X's 2! You can always find a sweet deal on those.

 

[Lone Star]

A few more thoughts: it's not too hard to find a budget boost, stock fenders, and wheel spacers for cheap to downright free. Of those 3, I've only paid for wheel spacers ($120 is going rate). That could put you on 35s really cheap.

Second, 3.73 is a little light for 35s. You'll be fine but you'll lose a little power. If you're never going bigger, you may want to budget to re-gear once you put in the 3" Enforcer to 4.56 or so.

Lastly, check out the High Clearance fender flares from Mopar. Same look but no rubbing or cutting.

If I kept stock rims, 16", and got wheel spacers ($120+) and 35" tires ($1800), I'm more that i would be with 15" with aftermarket wheels and more backspacing and 35" tires combined. And if i found used 17" rims, Tires are still several hundred dollars more than 15" set up alone. are 15" rims really that bad?

Yea, i plan on doing re-gear and at least a rear locker when I do the big lift. I figured i could get by with the stock gears for a while. The Hi-Top Mopar fenders are cool, still $835. Interesting though, and will have to keep in mind.

 

[Lone Star]

The plan is to get some self tapping, hex head screws to attach them. I plan on starting with one hockey puck per bumpstop and going from there. They are an inch thick.

That air dam is plastic like the fenders, bumpers and side mirrors. It will get yanked off road, as I've read and been told many times. I tried leaving it on, against advice, and discovered rubbing on a trail. I can't say for certain, yes it will always rub with oversize tires in every circumstance. I, and am sure many others here, would recommend pulling it sooner than later. I tried giving mine away locally but it ended up in the garbage.

Haha, cool, i'll keep watch on your build thread and see how it works out. so you don't really need the air dam?

 

[Lone Star]

I just checked the Dallas Craiglist, and you may find a deal on stock Rubi wheels

It will be another 4-6 months before i finally get my JK. Got to get more paid off on the Accord. :yawn37:, i do like the Rubi wheels better than the standard ones though.

 

[Lone Star]

I like those wheels! Those are the ones I just got. [emoji106]

Those are nice, and good to know they are $100. I really do like that style alot too!

 

[Goldeneagle1LC]

doesn't the sport come with 17" wheels?

 

[Napalm]

good inexpensive BB or 2-2.5" lift to get by

doesn't the sport come with 17" wheels?

I think only the Sport S does.

 

[USMC Wrangler]

Haha, cool, i'll keep watch on your build thread and see how it works out. so you don't really need the air dam?

No. The air dam is supposedly for aerodynamics. I noticed zero change in my mpg after removing it. I guess it acts as a splash guard too, but didn't see that benefit either.

Pull it off, even stock, and check it out. I think it looks better without it too.

 

[Lone Star]

Good to know, thanks!!!

 

[AllAmericanInfidel]

A few more thoughts: it's not too hard to find a budget boost, stock fenders, and wheel spacers for cheap to downright free. Of those 3, I've only paid for wheel spacers ($120 is going rate). That could put you on 35s really cheap.

Second, 3.73 is a little light for 35s. You'll be fine but you'll lose a little power. If you're never going bigger, you may want to budget to re-gear once you put in the 3" Enforcer to 4.56 or so.

Lastly, check out the High Clearance fender flares from Mopar. Same look but no rubbing or cutting.

I saw a Commando Green JKUR with the Mopar Hiline flares just yesterday driving down the highway. After seeming them, I'm sold. They looked great, very close to the stock look and in black, you could hardly notice the fuel door indentation that everyone complains about. The wheels he had lined up the tires right to the edge of the flare. Looked great IMO!